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Wanting to change from Nason ful-thane 2k urethane to Nason basecoat/clearcoat

4962 Views 3 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  jcclark
My question id do I have to change the primer-surfacer acrylic type,and the bond-sealer (all Nason brand) if Iam going to switch to basecoat/clearcoat. From what I have been reading in all the post, is that basecoat/clearcoat is the way to go. Iam painted the engine compartment with acrylic enamel 2k urethane pewter-metallic gray. It came out alright. Iam using a sharpe fx300 with a 1.4 tip. Also used craftsman hlvp with 1.8 tip. So is bc/cc easier than the acrylic enamel 2k urethane for the rookie in me?
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Nason BC/ CC.

I've used alot of nason products the base coat will work on any sanded primer but I use the adhesion promoter lightly sprayed about 10 minutes before the first coat of basecoat is sprayed. Just to help you out, just cover the area with a light coat just enough to color the area especially with metallic paint. I apply 2 coats of base 1 at 25 psi second one at 50 so the flakes will stand up . Hope this helps BALD CHEV. ;)
Singlestage metalic like you just sprayed is usually considered the toughest paint to master because metalic control can be very difficult with some colors. Most basecoats offer much easier sprayability. If this project is a keeper I'd definately make the switch to BC/CC and seal all that lacquer primer in epoxy or a urethane primer or sorry, strip it back down and start over. Nothing wrong with Urethane singlestage IMO, and many prefer it especially if it's a solid color but metalics aren't as user friendly. Limited buffing, etc.
I agree, if you can spray single stage metallics,
then you will like the base coat.
It's much more user friendly.
Just remember to not try and get the base on real wet and shiney
like the single stage paints. It goes on kinda' flat, that's what makes
it so easy, better metallic control and less chance of running.
You'll be fine!!! :pimp:
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