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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
With the help of you guys I stripped my trans am to metal and painted.
I used lots of Spi epoxy to block sand and then DuPont (4 coats I think) and Spi clear ( three coats I think)
I guess I got confused with when to wet sand the orange Peel with not waxing for a few months. So the car sat for maybe two years collecting dust while I built the engine. I knew at the time of painting that a big water droplet came out of the gun and landed on the roof. I believe it was during the second or third coat of clear. It didn't bother me as the screaming chicken decal would cover it up.

Now that I am ready to clean and wax and maybe wetsand I am noticing lots of other very tiny bumps. You can catch your nail on them. They are maybe a foot apart on most of the car. Mostly side panels as we started the coat on roof then hood then sides.
I am pretty sure it is tiny water particles. I used two wall mount Chinese filters and never had this issue with the primer but it was only a couple coats at a time. I guess the four coats of base and three clear without draining the filter between overcame what the filters could handle.

So now I would love to hear your opinion if this is going to cause a long term problem with the paint, sanding down to base and re spraying is not an option as the paint booth I built is long removed.
The nubs really don't bother me that much as it was my first paint job and I am really proud of it regardless. It is also a driver that will get a few rock chips ect.

I am trying to decide if I should wetsand the clear and risk opening up these little air bubbles and having wax fill them making them look worse like white dots, or should I just do a fine polish and wax?

I have a Mikita rotary and maguires solo and #4

Last night on the bottom rear quarter I took a razor and scraped across the top and this is what I got





I gave a 30 sec or so wet sand with 2000 grit








Then a bit more




Then hit it with a medium foam pad and maguires solo



What are your thoughts?
Am I going to screw things up worse or should I keep going?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That's a good idea, so treat it similar to a rock chip.
I have a small bottle of paintscratch.com clear. If it works do you think it makes a difference if I use this or should I mix up a bit of leftover Spi clear and use a toothpick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I decided to wet sand the whole car and now it appears there are only a few that need filling, the laquer seems to level it fine but those few holes appear or at least I will assume are deep maybe to the base. I don't want to risk going through the clear just to get a couple spots out so I just left them level.
The other 30 or so nibs appear to be trash and have the same circular look once we sanded but are coming out just past the orange Peel level.

Maybe I should start another post but while I'm here maybe I can go over my procedure for your criticism.

I have a
-Chicago pneumatic air sander with 2.5mm throw
-Cheap Titan vaper rotary with 7.5" majors pads (they look like rebranded lake country pads)
Maguires #4 I was using on the glass
Solo #86 compound

Only a little experience with the tools
4 coats base 3 med/heavy coats Spi UV clear
Started with 2000 grit 3M hand sanding and it would take down the orange Peel after a while then tried the rotary with med and heavy pads with not a great success.
Next I tried hand sanding with 2000 then 2500 and it went a little better but a lot of work.
Now I am taking off 60% of the OP with 1000 grit 3M wood block. (No 1500 in town)
2000 I work a bit longer on a foam block
Curvy areas get 2500 foam block by hand
Flatter areas get 3000 trizact on my 6" air sander. Wow that stuff is amazing!

The 3000 makes buffing a lot easier.
I am using a white 7.5" med pad damp then spun dry and a bit of product rubbed in then three dots on the pad with the solo 86 2.5 speed pretty slow rpm first pass then I back off on pressure and make maybe 4-6 passes in a 2'x2' area.
I apply product three times doing this.

I'm really happy with it so far from three feet away it looks great.
With 2000 watts of halogen and a flashlight I can see a few light scratches and a few pigtails and a light haze mostly in corners.

I am thinking once the whip car is to this point I could either wax and just drive it or I could buy a DA and maybe maguires 205 with white or soft pads and continue.

Thoughts?

I'll post pics once the wife pulls me away from the car later today. ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The trunk with 3000 and buffed on one side



I think these are holograms I read about, from moving too fast?



The curves on the rear quarter were a bit more tricky and still have light scratches/ buff marks



Rear quarter still has pig tails I guess I should do another round with the rotary or should I just wait until I get a good DA and different polish/ compound better pads?

 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I appreciate the help

I couldn't find an interface pad in this small town, and west coast Canada seems like it's hard to find pro body paint supplies regardless, easier to buy from Amazon but I was impatient.
The 3M video says it isn't required and the ammo/nyc with the maguires guys on YouTube video says you should use one but I went ahead anyway.

The trunk had quite a few of those pig tails, is this from not using the interface pad? They mostly buffed out.

Maybe I just need to do a better job keeping things clean

Good to know I wasn't buffing long enough, I guess I'm just afraid it will go dry and start to get hot so I'm being a bit shy, but maybe this is why I need to use compound so many times, I will try to go a little longer.

Your tips are a great help, I really appreciate it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That's great feedback, and you hit a lot of points I have somehow missed in all my reading/searching.
I'm looking forward to trying your suggestions and will get back with pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I put these tips to work tonight. Sanded the hood and front quarters last night/ this morning. I still don't have an interface pad but pre cleaned the surface twice with a new cloth and 20% iso water mix and got in the habit of spraying down the trizact often to clean it. Practically zero pig tails now.
I am using a third less product after prepping the pad carefully. And I'm way less shy with the rotary. I used to keep it at 2.5-3 for speed and now I go to 3 until the product is spread then four then the final passes on five progressively getting lighter. I cut the hood into six sections but overlapped them a lot on my first round and I am getting as good of results after my first round than the three I previously had to do.
My new pad is already way more worn looking than the old one and has a slight brown tinge that looks like burning. It feels dry after each section But still lets a ton of product out when I washed it.
The panel is also warm to the touch now as before it was still a bit cold.

I haven't had a chance to see under sunlight as its raining every day. After the one round I can only see light scratches if I wipe it with iso but I'll look closer tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Pulled it out in the sun and from three feet away everything is great.
Standing with the sun in my face and my nose pressed to the panels I can see 1000 and 2000 grit cross hatching.

The hood and front quarter and door where I kept the rpms up and followed your advice look a lot better then the trunk and roof.

At this point I'm happy but am wondering if I can see those 1000 grit scratches should I

- not be so picky and continue with polish?
- just try buffing them out with the med pad?
- go back and hit it with a new trizact 3000 pad until the scratches are gone and then easily buff those 3000 scratches out?
 
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