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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sorry for the long explanation I just want to make sure i cover every variable.

Last Friday i was driving and my car started "smoking" I pulled over and tried to figure out what it was. I pulled the dipstick and it was all white and milky looking. Pulled PCV breather thing and out came milky oil. Another thing was oil sitting on the top of the intake manifold where it bolts on. I drove about 2 miles further and parked it. Did a compression test and all cylinders are pretty close to 150 psi. I mean very close. So i ruled out the head gasket. I then pulled the intake off and the gasket was oily and not sticking. I replaced the gasket. I put RTV around the water jackets on the intake manifold and on the head before i put the gasket on. I the drained the oil. Took the oil filter off let it sit upside down (to drain it) for about an hour. I got it all together put new oil in. Ran it, drove it for about 10 min. Got on it a lil bit a couple of times. came back home. Checked the oil some white stuff on the top. Tooke my pcv valve cover thing off and turned it upside down, out came white milky oil.


Anyone have any suggestions, or peace of mind?

Could the headgasket still be blown and give good PSI readings?

Could there still be water sitting at the bottom of the oil pan?

Kyle
 

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thats odd, i did work at an oil change place, and that happened to someone i knew, change the oil more than once, or maybe run a engine flush its just .2 l ether and .8 l oil, but after than if its still milky im not sure i think changing filters and oil and pvc will help. Make sure no one is vandalizin it. ive heard of some weird things happenen to cars at night
 

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Water in Oil

You are probably going to have to change the oil & filter about 3 times to get all the water out. That's running the engine about 20 minutes per oil change. Gunk makes a engine flush in 1 qt. cans but I've never used it so it can't brag on it.
 

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Could still be a head gasket, just not leaking from the fire rings, hence good comp #'s. Next time you drop the oil, make sure you use a new filter, as has already been advised. Also, pull your plugs, and look for one/some that are really clean. If you are getting water in the cylinders, the affected cyls. will have very clean plugs. Head gaskets can leak, and show no noticable compression drop, just leaking from a coolant passage into an oil passage.

If you want to try a cheap flush, you can use diesel fuel or varsol. Mix it 3 quarts varsol/diesel to 2 quarts fresh oil, and run the engine for 5-10 min. Just watch out when you drain it, this sh1t will be black and hot!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The reason i never changed the oil filter is becasue it is about a week old and costs $12 (K&N). So I just wanted to drain it. The car doesnt seem to perform very well at all. It seems like it used to be faster. the engine has about 600 hundred miles on it maybe. I'm not sure if its just tuning related im only pulling 12 Hg's or whatever at idle with a gauge. at 12 deg. i adjust the idle mixture to get a best of 12.


Kyle
 

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If its not the head gaskets then it could be a crack in the block. Have you done the one or two oil changes? It shouldn't need too many.
One thing you will need to remember later is the main bearings. If the coolant leaked into the base, it will affect them sooner or later.
Dutch
 

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The only thing wrong with it is most likely the PCV valve. During my time in the military I spent a great deal of time in California (which I affectionately refer to as "The ******* of the World") and this time of year it's extremely damp (Tule' Fog), and if you don't have a PCV valve that's working at least reasonably well, it'll let moisture into the crankcase and will turn your oil slightly milky. I noticed it more than once. Just put a new PCV valve in and change the oil and filter again, you should be OK.
 

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All engines condense moisture somewhat in the crank case. Typcially the water will evaporate out shortly after the engine gets up to temperature. If the problem is still there after one oil change, you have a problem.

I would check the torque on the heads if I were you. Some gaskets will compress after being run a little while and the head bolts will all be loose. I had this very thing happen to me one time and found that the head bolts had lost torque. I had probably used some cheap head gaskets, but I could not tell you which ones.

If that does not do it, it sounds like a cracked or warped head or a cracked block. I would think that if it was a head gasket or head, you would be burning all the water and you will get the clean plugs. If that is not the case, I would fear the worst.

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
One PCV valve is new, the other is older. They both usually have milk stuff in them after driving. I retorqued the heads when i pulled the intake off, a couple of bolts werent exactly at 65. after driving a few miles steam starts to come out of the PCV valves...
I ill change the oil/filter and see where im at. The heads are new. I would hate to see it be them. The block does have one Helicoil in it in one of the oil passages. Are they more suseptable to leaking? i used thread sealent on every bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Do I need to use a special head gasket with alum heads? Do i need a special intake gasket with alum heads/alum intake?

there seams to be more oil seeping out of the intake maniold gasket. on the sides. There are little bubbles and water like oil seeps through.
 

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Well, if it's not using any oil or water, or making smoke (or steam), it's probably not the heads, or head gaskets. I'd still guess either a bad PCV, or something else that's allowing moisture to get into the crankcase. It's a good bet that, if you didn't have this problem before the weather got damp and foggy, it's nothing serious, especially if it's running nicely.

Oops! Just read your last post.....

Replace your manifold gasket, and all should be right with the world :)
 

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Well, I'm not really "up" on the later chevy stuff, but I've never used a special gasket for aluminum intake and heads. Just be sure you get them tightened evenly and correctly (from the inside, out, and back and forth on each side) and it should seal nicely. Some of these guys who build alum. stuff all the time may know better, but like I said, I've put several alum. intakes on alum. heads with standard gaskets, no problems. Just be sure you use a good quality gasket, also, though. Fel-Pro is the good stuff, Mr. Gasket is not :)
 

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I see that you got a lot of replies to your problem, and they're all good but incredibly not one person bothered to ask nor did you bother to volunteer what kind of vehicle you have but most important is your engine ALUMINUM? Maybe just your heads are? Aluminum engine blocks and heads can warp very easily. It doesn't take much. Just overheat it once and and you could very well ruin it. As with a slight crack in a head gasket or head from a cast iron engine, an aluminum engine that has a slight warp in the head or block can hold back the coolant leak until the engine approachs the threshold of heat that caused it to leak in the first place and then it can leak again. I once had a car that would smoke white from the exhaust every once in a while and once the car cooled down it would stop and not return for weeks. After a few times i noticed the temperature was always in the 3/4 area. In other words, this car didnt have a temperature gauge in degrees, it just had low medium and high. So, it would be between medium and high when the smoking occured. I remembered that a long time before this started happening, i had driven the car while overheating when a hose blew. I didnt want to get stuck where i was and drove it further . Needless to say, that is probably when i warped the head but i didn't see it at the time because i allowed the engine to cool completely. Anyway, to make a real long story shorter, when i finally pulled the head it had a tiny warp in the front cylinder area of the head right over the water jacket and the cylinder. I don't know if this fits your scenario or if it even helps, but it's something to think about. One thing i can tell you for sure, internal coolant leaks do not fix themselves. If you see it once you can bet your going to see it again, and very possibly at the worst time.:mwink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
cast iron block, alum heads. in an el camino. I think the problem is going away since i replaced the intake gasket the rest of the water is working its way out. Every time i drive it less and less water is coming out the PCV valve. LOL

Kyle
 
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