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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
can somebody post a picture of their system like this ? im slightly confused on the pick up lines. i have a gallon jug with 2 hoses sticking out of it, one with a air stone and the other is waiting to go in a vacuum line ???? i just dont understand where the pick up line goes, i do believe the air stone is just a vent leading outside the lid, right ?



and i didnt wanna bring back a 2 year old thread, didnt know if people would hate me =[ haha
 

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vapor injection

They were popular in the 70's when new cars would diesel, cough, sputter, etc. My nephew had one and I think he used a hobbs switch so to only use the system after the engine warmed up. and you should not have trouble with the system freezing up in the winter. one hose vented to outside air and the other to the intake. Hobbs switches are use for water injections on some turbo systems, I don't know how he had his hooked up Mabe get elect from engine temp switch ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
mine is just the siphoning setup, not the actual injection setup... thats what im kinda confused on, am i picking up water vapor from the bubbler or actual water ?

just trying to figure it out =P
 

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can somebody post a picture of their system like this ? im slightly confused on the pick up lines. i have a gallon jug with 2 hoses sticking out of it, one with a air stone and the other is waiting to go in a vacuum line ???? i just dont understand where the pick up line goes, i do believe the air stone is just a vent leading outside the lid, right ?



and i didnt wanna bring back a 2 year old thread, didnt know if people would hate me =[ haha
This way you get water injection when you least want it, and don't get it when you do... It's not entirely wrong, but its the opposite of correct.

You want less water at high vacuum and more with less vacuum, it'll also need some way to be adjusted for RPM or air volume.
 

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Back in the 70's & 80's the company I worked for used these on all their mobile welding trucks and I built one of my own.

Materials:
A jug or bottle with a screw on cap.
Fish Tank Aerator Stone
Vacuum Hose
Small Adjustable Valve

You run two vacuum hoses through the lid. One vacuum hose ends close to the bottom side of the lid where it is always out of the water, this line runs directly to a vaccum source on the carb. The fish tank aerator stone connects to the end of the second vacuum hose and sets in the water at the bottom of the jug/jar. The valve connects to the other end of this hose for adjusting the incoming vacuum.

When the engine is started, it pulls vacuum through the jar. As you adjust the valve, the incoming air pulled through the fish tank stone aerates the water and makes a mist which is pulled into the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Back in the 70's & 80's the company I worked for used these on all their mobile welding trucks and I built one of my own.

Materials:
A jug or bottle with a screw on cap.
Fish Tank Aerator Stone
Vacuum Hose
Small Adjustable Valve

You run two vacuum hoses through the lid. One vacuum hose ends close to the bottom side of the lid where it is always out of the water, this line runs directly to a vaccum source on the carb. The fish tank aerator stone connects to the end of the second vacuum hose and sets in the water at the bottom of the jug/jar. The valve connects to the other end of this hose for adjusting the incoming vacuum.

When the engine is started, it pulls vacuum through the jar. As you adjust the valve, the incoming air pulled through the fish tank stone aerates the water and makes a mist which is pulled into the engine.
what improvements have you noticed with this ? more mpg? cooler running temps? both? thankyou for the details, i assumed correctly i believe, just didnt wanna mess things up =p
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This way you get water injection when you least want it, and don't get it when you do... It's not entirely wrong, but its the opposite of correct.

You want less water at high vacuum and more with less vacuum, it'll also need some way to be adjusted for RPM or air volume.
on the 12 mile trip to work today the truck stayed at the 14.5-15.2 afr range majority of the way here,(low load = light foot ) so if my crusing mode becomes more efficient id be just as happy as power mode becomming a little more efficient, for the time being i think this ill work outpretty well.
 

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on the 12 mile trip to work today the truck stayed at the 14.5-15.2 afr range majority of the way here,(low load = light foot ) so if my crusing mode becomes more efficient id be just as happy as power mode becomming a little more efficient, for the time being i think this ill work outpretty well.
:pain: smh. You can lead a horse to water...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Back in the 70's & 80's the company I worked for used these on all their mobile welding trucks and I built one of my own.

Materials:
A jug or bottle with a screw on cap.
Fish Tank Aerator Stone
Vacuum Hose
Small Adjustable Valve

You run two vacuum hoses through the lid. One vacuum hose ends close to the bottom side of the lid where it is always out of the water, this line runs directly to a vaccum source on the carb. The fish tank aerator stone connects to the end of the second vacuum hose and sets in the water at the bottom of the jug/jar. The valve connects to the other end of this hose for adjusting the incoming vacuum.

When the engine is started, it pulls vacuum through the jar. As you adjust the valve, the incoming air pulled through the fish tank stone aerates the water and makes a mist which is pulled into the engine.

how do you adjust the valve to the vacuum ratio ? did you use a guide line of some sort ?
 

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how do you adjust the valve to the vacuum ratio ? did you use a guide line of some sort ?
It's basically a set point and you leave it there regardless of vacuum. With the engine running you open the valve to a point where the liquid will bubble. This causes a mist to develop which is then sucked in by the vacuum. IIRC, it did help mileage some. Back in those days though gasoline was less than a buck a gallon so it was'nt a big concern about the mileage. It helped keep the pistons and valves free from carbon buildup which helped in a lot of areas. If you build one, let us know what you think about it.:thumbup:
 

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u can use a windshield washer pump hooked upto a hobbs switch or rpm window switch, this type of setup is more for wot type stuff though or say when towing a heavy load, or going up a steep incline

the problem with using a washer pump is they dont make a lot of presure so u cant use a real meth injection nozzle to get a real atomized mist.

most nozzles require atleast 50 psi of presure, but u can play with some nozzles to find one that will work well with the washer pump being carbed it will still atomize when it gets into the hot intake manifold. but u dont want to be spraying a stream of water/methanol in there u still want it to mist
 

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u can always do what i did and build urself a 1 gallon tank out of aluminum or steel and mount a fuel injection fuel pump inside it, this will produce the right presure to use a real meth injection nozzle

this type of system would work much better then what ur trying to do
 
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