[Classix_Lover]

For some reason, the solder I use won't properly "sink" through the wires and instead, will just form a puddle above the wires and won't adhere them together. Bit of a problem that's been leaving me scratching my head. Been using wire that isn't terribly old, but still wanted to eliminate it being that problem. Took brand new wire, stripped the ends and attempted to solder the end for a test. Did the same thing, just globbed on the surface and wouldn't properly sink through, doesn't matter what gauge the wires are either. What is going on? I am doing it the proper method by heating the wire and letting the wire do the actual melting. Could it be a defective piece of solder? I'm using lead free solder, .062" diameter, flux core. Should I switch to silver solder or perhaps another suggestion is in order?

 

[Rob Keller]

Rob Here :thumbup:

1st of all you will need to use
#1 Rosin core solder
#2 you will need Flux
#3 & Possibly wicking sticks
#4 Make sure you are using a Soldering Iron not a gun the gun gets too hot & burns your wire.

All these are available @ your local Rat Shack.

Try taking a few test runs on scraps before going fir the real deal If that dies not work I will go back & re read my Soldering instructions from . . .

Doc Vette imp: Docvette electrical search and memorial

As a matter of fact you should search up Doc's imp: threads & read up but I am confident I got the majority of the lesson correct.

This one here



ROB :thumbup: imp:

 

[Classix_Lover]

I'm afraid you misunderstood me Rob. I haven't had any problems soldering this whole time, up until this point tonight where the solder isn't seeping through all the wires properly and binding them together. I want to know why this is occuring all of a sudden. Wire gets plenty hot for this to occur, doesn't matter what gauge I'm using, doesn't matter if it's newer/older wire.

 

[ford2go]

Is this your first try with lead free solder? I'm not familiar with using it for
electrical connections. It works OK for plumbing.

I would guess that lead free might require a somewhat different technique, but I'm not sure what. I know that the electronics industry was switching to lead free just as I retired, but I didn't pick up on any changes in soldering techniques -- I was in software stuff at the time.

It might be worthwhile looking for some solder manufacturer's websites to see if they have any comments. Kester used to be the big gun in electrical solder.

Otherwise your technique sounds OK -- if you're doing it indoors. It can be a problem to heat wire enough to tin it if you're outdoors.

Silver solder, if I recall, requires a higher temperature. I also think that it's spendy

Good luck,

ford2go.

 

[powerrodsmike]

Sounds like not enough heat..or the wrong solder/flux. I clean the tip of the iron a little with sandpaper and then tin the tip a little before I go to it, it seems to help the heat transfer.

I like .025" solder for fine stuff.

Does that lead free stuff have a flux core?

Remember, rosin is for electrical work, acid core is for gutters and radiators and plumbing.

All the lead free stuff I used is for plumbing, and takes a different flux than the lead.

Check yer iron for proper heating. I use a weller 250 watt soldering gun, (sorry rob, the old pencil type just don't do that well in cold cold cowleefornia), and I know that they will just crap the bed with no warning.


later, mikey

 

[mr27t]

I've never soldered connectors!!!

I've worked in aviation for most of my life and soldering electrical connections is a big NO! The reason is because unless you are an ace at soldering every connector perfectly every time, the solder connections may have contamination which could result in corrosion that will eventually cause poor electrical conductivity and problems later on down the road. Double crimp connectors/connections are the best for wire terminations when properly done and provide the cleanest and best conductive electrical connection. Just my opinion

 

[302 Z28]

Mr27T is correct, aviation connections are by crimp only, no solder. Also a soldered connection in a high vibration environment (aviation) cause cause a stress pont that can break.

Having said all that, for electrical connections the best solder is 60/40 rosin core 60% lead and 40% tin. Lead free is not worth a flip in electrical work IMO.

Vince

 

[oldred]

You also may want to take a good look at that solder it may say on the package it is rosin core but is it really? About a year ago I ran into this stuff from Radio Shack that was packaged as rosin core but actually turned out to be solid. I went back in to exchange it and turns out every package they had in that size was labeled wrong.

 

[powerrodsmike]

Good point, Oldred :thumbup:

I don't work on aviation stuff, but I know in my shop I replace way more crimped connections gone bad than soldered ones.

It is just as easy to mess up a crimp, as it is a solder. Not many people have the correct crimpers that won't overcrimp the wire. And how many people will shrink wrap a crimped connector that already has the plastic insulator...

I always solder so the end flows smoothly into the wire, then double heat shrink wrap it. Sometimes I even put a dab of silicone grease inside, like Dow Corning 111, to keep air and moisture out.

Later, mikey

 

[Classix_Lover]

Is this your first try with lead free solder? I'm not familiar with using it for
electrical connections. It works OK for plumbing.

I would guess that lead free might require a somewhat different technique, but I'm not sure what. I know that the electronics industry was switching to lead free just as I retired, but I didn't pick up on any changes in soldering techniques -- I was in software stuff at the time.

It might be worthwhile looking for some solder manufacturer's websites to see if they have any comments. Kester used to be the big gun in electrical solder.

Otherwise your technique sounds OK -- if you're doing it indoors. It can be a problem to heat wire enough to tin it if you're outdoors.

Silver solder, if I recall, requires a higher temperature. I also think that it's spendy

Good luck,

ford2go.

Hmm.. well I wouldn't be surprised if it was the wrong type of solder. It wasn't doing this up until I found some more solder in my garage to use. Since then, it's been giving me hell. :sweat: The package claims it can be used for electrical, tin repairs, yada yada, but who actually knows.

 

[Classix_Lover]

Sounds like not enough heat..or the wrong solder/flux. I clean the tip of the iron a little with sandpaper and then tin the tip a little before I go to it, it seems to help the heat transfer.

I like .025" solder for fine stuff.

Does that lead free stuff have a flux core?

Remember, rosin is for electrical work, acid core is for gutters and radiators and plumbing.

All the lead free stuff I used is for plumbing, and takes a different flux than the lead.

Check yer iron for proper heating. I use a weller 250 watt soldering gun, (sorry rob, the old pencil type just don't do that well in cold cold cowleefornia), and I know that they will just crap the bed with no warning.


later, mikey

Yea, I tried sanding the surface of the soldering iron just to be sure it wasn't contaminating the surface somehow, but no luck. Hm.. interesting though, this might be solder used primarily for plumbing after all. I remember on the package it said it had an acid flux core, so there could be the problem right there. :spank: The soldering iron will melt it no problem, it just won't adhere to the copper all of a sudden. Thanks Mikey :thumbup:

Having said all that, for electrical connections the best solder is 60/40 rosin core 60% lead and 40% tin. Lead free is not worth a flip in electrical work IMO.

Vince

Thanks Vince, I'll keep that in mind after I get off school to go get the proper soldering material.

Also thanks to oldred and mr27t for your thoughts, will definately take them into consideration and let you all know how it goes today. :welcome:

 

[oldred]

I've worked in aviation for most of my life and soldering electrical connections is a big NO! The reason is because unless you are an ace at soldering every connector perfectly every time, the solder connections may have contamination which could result in corrosion that will eventually cause poor electrical conductivity and problems later on down the road. Double crimp connectors/connections are the best for wire terminations when properly done and provide the cleanest and best conductive electrical connection. Just my opinion

I knew aircraft connections are all crimped and thought maybe they should be soldered, never really thought about it much, but now I know why not. I guess that is the reason the FAA would slap my hand :spank: if they caught me repairing my own wiring!

 

[rjfscorpio711]

solder problem

Im rewiring a 1937 Chevy street rod for a friend, I've been doing alot of soldering lately. Heat is the answer. The solder will follow the heat. You can even get solder to flow UP if you want. Put the soldering gun under the wire, let the heat flow up through the wire, the feed the solder into the gap between the tip of the iron & the wiring. It may take longer if you're working in a colder climate. It's gotten cold here in Tennessee tha last weel and everything in the shop Im working in has taken on a little "chill" so is possibly something like this affecting you also. 85 degrees & 50 degrees makes a difference. It's been taking me twice as long (5 minutes as opposed to just 1 minute) to do a solder joint lately. Hope this helps.

 

[Henry Highrise]

I have used lead free solder for plumbing and it did take more heat than the lead did to get it to flow right.

 

[Bryan59EC]

The REAL problem is that Tommy has not been spending enough time here .

We have not had a real good laugh at his expense in while---way overdue

At least it is good you have not forgotten about us, Tommy

Bryan

 

[Rob Keller]

The REAL problem is that Tommy has not been spending enough time here .

We have not had a real good laugh at his expense in while---way overdue

At least it is good you have not forgotten about us, Tommy

Bryan

+

I think the last time that happened ,I got thrown in the dump.

You will respect my authoritah!

:thumbup:

 

[Classix_Lover]

The REAL problem is that Tommy has not been spending enough time here .

We have not had a real good laugh at his expense in while---way overdue

At least it is good you have not forgotten about us, Tommy

Bryan

And.. you.. you are?







:thumbup: J/k Bryan, I remember you... maybe lol jkk


Pft, the first day I came back after MIA, I already get attacked by all knowing automotive gurus, so there will be plenty of laughing at my expense as long as I'm here dammit. :thumbup:

 

[Classix_Lover]

The only thing that brightens my day is knowing that Rob still consumes more than his weight in brownies on a daily basis.. :wipes tear from eye: I'm.. sorry, just get so emotional when it comes to topics like this, whewww..

Oh yea, almost forgot. Bought a roll of rosin cored solder, 1/3 of the diameter I was using before, and everthing's soldering the way it was before all this mess happened. To give you an idea of how bad it was, when I was re-soldering a few of the connector pins to fix the craptacular ones from the solder last night, I could literally peel the solder off the wire. Absolutely none of them were binded together as they were supposed to. :drunk: Damn that was some good solder!! ain: :mwink:

Thanks for all your help though once again.

 

[Rob Keller]

I missed you

you know I did.

Its good to have someone who shares a warped sense of humor.

Great , now every one will know why I need a Four door land Yacht to get around.

Hell Yea I wan't some cheezie poofs.

Mom! TOMMAY! is being a bad Tommay ! no tommay bad tommay my pot pie!






R :thumbup:

 

[2-manytoyzs]

Showing those brownies to me is like offering an alcoholic a drink. Now I gotta go get a chocolate fix.... thanks a lot... I'm trying to loose weight here people!!!

Now about the solder vrs crimp discussion. I've been told about aviation and NASA stuff using crimp because of the corrosion issue, but does it really have an effect on our cars. I can see how corrosion causing resistance values to change in a space craft could cause potential problems because of the exactness of the science used in such vehicles, but in the 12V electrical system of my Ford Taurus? Is that going to be an issue when its in the junkyard when it becomes cost prohibitive to repair the trans when it goes out and the car is only worth $900 in a few more years. A good soldered and sealed connection should be good for what 30 - 40 - 50 years? I wont even be around that long.