Yea I rolled with the 8" one. Who knows, maybe the ignition timing has never been where I thought it was! Doubtful, but maybe i'll pick up a little power if that is the case. I did notice it moving around a little a while back. One day it would be 24 and the next it would 35 but I honestly thought the distributor was cheap and messing up.Bigger is always better for damping purposes.
Doesn't matter what the balancer says if timing is right.I'm only spinning it to 6k rpm.
Great info! Thank youDoesn't matter what the balancer says if timing is right.
For your dragstrip comparison to others though, I doubt your 5.3 friends are limiting themselves to 6k. Do they also have AR5 or T56?
If you shift your AR5 @ 6k, the fallback on paper after the 1/2 shift is 3616rpm.
If you shift your AR5 @ 7.5k, the fallback on paper after the 1/2 shift is 4520rpm (25% more combustion events vs 3616)
If you shift a WR T56 @ 6k, the fallback on paper after the 1/2 shift is 4242rpm (17% more combustion events vs 3616)
If you shift a WR T56 @ 7.5k, the fallback on paper after the 1/2 shift is 5303rpm (47% more combustion events vs 3616)
Rpm drop after the shift also affects the amount of rotating assy inertia that gets dumped and then has to get paid back. If you are letting off the throttle for the shift, a 6k shift dropping to 3616 after the shift represents a 64% discharge of stored inertia energy. With a WR T56, a 6k shift only discharges 50% of the rotating assy's inertia. That's about 14% less inertia discharge during the shift. The less energy you discharge during the shift, the less you have to pay back. Also the less energy you discharge during the shift the less likely to spin the radials, and if you do chirp the radials you will waste less power doing so.
Your 13.99 SLR with the AR5's 3.75 1st gear ratio isn't helping either. Since the engine will accelerate at a much quicker rate with a AR5's 3.75 1st gear vs a WR T56's 2.97 1st gear, the engine's torque output with the AR5 will be less. In the end the added multiplication doesn't get you anything, while the wider gear spreads cost you higher energy discharges that then have to be paid back.
Maybe I’m thinking of this wrong, but wouldn’t marking the pulley attached to the center of the balancer and then marking the outer ring of the balancer be the same as marking the center of the balancer?Like this
If the outer ring is slipping then there are two problems.The harmonic balancer is spinning. I put a mark on the blower pulley attached to the center of the balancer, then put a mark lining up with it on the outer ring of the balancer. The outer ring is moving, and its moving quite a bit. I mean it will make it look like the timing is 13 degrees and then a couple revs later it looks like its almost 50!
Anything wrong with just a factory style balancer? The rotating assembly was not balanced with it. Is a more inxpensive balancer worth the money? I'm only spinning it to 6k rpm.