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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an oportunity to purchase a bone stock (carb. to oil pan) 454 still bolted to a TH400 transmission. The motor suffix code says that it is an 1984 454 from a 3/4 ton or 1 ton truck. This is possibly a 4 bolt main, but don't know yet for sure. Lets just assume that is a 2 bolt. From what I was told, the motor was a good runner before pulled. I know the heads are garbage for performance use, but they should offer great torque for my daily driver pick-up.

BTW. I pulled the engine dipstick and the oil looked normal.

Eventually... (years from now) I want build it up and drop it in my pro-street Camaro.

I sure would like to know what it is worth.
 

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Ask me, Cause I don't know
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how long ago was it pulled? do you know the owner? can you hear it run? do a compression test? pull a valve cover? transmission pan?

If all this is unknown I would think it is just a core. As little as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The engine and transmission is on a wooden cart, on the garage floor. I'm not sure how long it has sat. Maybe a couple of years. I think hearing it run would not be possible. A compression check could be done though.

I pulled a valve cover and had a look around. It was very clean. No gunk build up anywhere.
 

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My pipes are my music
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What's the owner want for it? It would be nice to find out the mileage on it when it was pulled. Get some more #'s on the engine and you should be able to find if it's a 2 bolt or 4. used 454's around so. indiana usually go for around 500 bucks. The tranny, about 250-300 bucks if it's good. If you buy it, the first thing I would do if I planed to use it stock would be put it on an engine stand and replace every gasket and seal. After sitting for two yrs. gaskets shrink and the rubber in the seals get hard, to include the front and rear mains. You sure don't want any leaks from the start. While your doing that, you can check the condition of the timing chain and rod bearings. :thumbup:
 

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elkyholic
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Red
I started my 454 project with an '85 truck motor/trans.
I paid $500 for both, and the seller pulled it from the truck for me. It was in the truck, and reportedly had a thrown rod.
Since I knew I was going to rebuild it completely, I took a chance that the cylinders were still good and did not run a compression check (even a bad result could be rings or valves - so I wouldn't know for sure until I disassembled).

The (2 bolt main) block checked out OK and was prepped by a local machine shop. I bought a used crank and heads from my machine shop with all the machine work done. Then I added pistons and everything else to build the motor. I still don't know how the TH400 will turn out, but I plan to change the filter, fluid, and rear seal and put it in.

As always buying used iron is somewhat risky, especially when you can't inspect the cylinders, crank, pistons, etc.
Priced low enough to write off the loss if the block is bad - it can turn out to be a bargain.
Assume that heads are worthless (peanut ports are good for RVs, but even a p/u truck deserves good heads).
Cast cranks are OK for street use and if yours is good to use you'll save a few bucks, even more if the pistons/rods are good.
Also the brackets, pulleys, etc are worth a few bucks if they are in good condition (mine were all rusted badly - I did save the clutch fan).

If the seller thinks his 454 is worth real money, then negotiate a price based on disassembly and inspection (like offer a $100 deposit - with $400 balance to be paid after inspection to close the deal). That way the guy knows you're serious, so it's worth his time to let you take it apart. If he is confident that his engine is good, then he isn't at risk that you'll leave him with the pieces. If you're not confident about the inspection then take someone with you that can tell by looking if the block, etc is worth buying (final check at machine shop could still reveal problems that can't be checked visually).

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I was thinking that a new gasket set and timing chain would be nessesary. If I decide to buy it.

I was told that the motor was pulled from a truck less than a year ago. I was also told that he bought the truck to drive then eventually pull the motor and scrap the rest. (rough body) The motor has CE stamped in front of the passenger side cylinder head. From my research this means that this motor was a warranty replacement short block. The casting numbers on the back, behind the drivers side head is 14015445.

Also, it has all accessories and brackets. Alt, power steering, water pump.

I was told today $550.00 could have it all. Would it be worth it?
 

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My pipes are my music
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Yeah, replacement crate engine. They are basicly a new engine when they leave the re-manufacturer. I found two metal tags stuck on the side of the block on mine for manufacturers ID and spec's. Pulled it out of a 79 truck. They were stuck on backwards and I didn't see anything on them till I pry'ed them off and turned them over and cleaned the glue off them. They even had the name of the co. that did the work. I looked them up on google and got their web site and phone number and found when it was re-done.
Might want to check for them. :thumbup:
 

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new interiors, how far would you travel to pick one up? I know of one with tranny attached for 500 that came out of a burban that got wrecked last year. I think it was an 80 something. My neighbor bought it and pulled it just because it was there!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
sqzbox said:
You know I was just messin' with ya, right? ;) Might want to post an update when you get into it on a stand. :mwink:
Yeah I know you was messin' around.

I'll have to post some pictures.

NEW INTERIORS said:
$550.00 !!!!! Man it would be at my house already !!!! Over here a good one will be $1000.00 or better..
It's good to know that if I fall on hard times and need some money, I can get all my money back plus some. :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Long over due update. My truck has a tired 305, and i thought I could swap this 454 in.:rolleyes: I was hoping to just scrape the grime and replace seals and gaskets. Give it a coat of paint, then swap it in

Pulled oil pan and timing cover. Wanted to replace timing chain and rear main seal.



Found some bad main bearings and a spun rod bearing on #7. :mad:





I also found a bore that was .006" egg shape.

I was given another crank that was -.01/-.01 reground, but with some rust.

Hauled it all off to the machine shop. :(

 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Last fall I got a call from machinist. All the usual stuff.

Bored .03" over
Decked head surface
Rods were resized
Free crank was turned to -.02/-.02
New domed pistons
Balanced rotating assembly

Heads were resurfaced
One valve was replaced
New guide plates for 3/8" pushrods
New valve springs
Eliminated rotators





 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I decided on a small Lunati VooDoo hydraulic roller cam. I went with a gen 6 style cam and bought the GM timing chain kit with retainer since my block has tapped holes for this.

degreed the cam



Heads went on



Timing cover and oil pan bolted on



Lunati VooDoo roller rockers

 
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