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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I have the gutters shaved, ground, welded, ground again. Now am I ready for plastic filler? what I have available in town are: Dynatron Dynaglass, Dynalite by bondo, or Autobody Master #4404. all are 2 part fillers and like I said here in town. Has any one used any of these? Do I need to drive 40 miles to town. what do you think. oh yeah, how fer back should I feather the filler from the SMOOTHNESS <img src="graemlins/pimp.gif" border="0" alt="[pimp]" /> <img src="graemlins/drunk.gif" border="0" alt="[drunk]" /> <img src="graemlins/pimp.gif" border="0" alt="[pimp]" /> <img src="graemlins/drunk.gif" border="0" alt="[drunk]" /> <img src="graemlins/nono.gif" border="0" alt="[nono]" />
 

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I myself use Evercoat brand filler, from thier lightweight plastic to fiberglass or even the ocasional metal 2 metal. Somtimes I use filler by 3M, but its not reddily available around here. I myself try to stay away from anything made by Bondo, but thats just me. I like Evercoat its a good filler and its redily available here and not to terribly exspensive.

HK
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
course he's DEAD, only gone home. should I use a fiberglass filler or stick with plastic. area to be done is'nt to deformed. also, what is better for larger surfaces, say for instance, a gas filler hole. sheetmetaled in, ground as smooth as I ccan get, just to make it purty
 

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Its not a bad product at all, just a real beetch to work with like you said, if you think thats a real beetch to sand try metal2metal after its cured :eek: you need a frikin arm of steel to do it (why I rarely use it). Try Evercoats 'glass filler, its easier to work with. I try to use as little filler as posible unless its one of those cheap rush for fun jobs lust to make your day-to-dayer look good without alot of work.

HK
 

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I use 'glass filler for big jobs that I want to stay for awhile with structural integrity, then use a thin coat of plastic filler to smooth out the 'glass, because everyone knows plastic smooths way better than 'glass filler. Just for small jobs for filling in or smoothing just use plastic, no need to use 'glass. I only use glass when I'm doing a $600+ cost in materials type job.

HK
 

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Crazy L you spoke of filling a gas hole in, I've seen this done by welding a piece of sheetmetal in place(door handles) without cutting the surrounding area out. Each time I've seen this done they show up later in the paint job. The best way to fill an area like a gas opening or door handle is to cut the area out and weld another piece into its place. When this was done it didn't show. FYI :D
 

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Crazy L, by the way we use Evercoat brand fillers and polyester fillers for my class, they dry good and sand pretty easy. Sanding with 40-80 grit is not bad at all. Don't forget to read the directions on the label <img src="graemlins/mwink.gif" border="0" alt="[mwink]" /> it does seem to help with questions that may arise during use. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
so let me get this clear..... I should cut a section around the filler neck (incab tank relocated to under bed) and weld in a patch? what i did was cut a circle close to fit, and flanged it to fit somewhat flush from the inside of the cab, not to much of a gap, was hoping filler would take care of it but i dont want to be in the middle of my paint job and see the patch....... please expound on this.......
of yeah,,,,,when all else fails, read the directions <img src="graemlins/crash.gif" border="0" alt="[crash]" />
 

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If its the type with just a round hole (70s ford style?) with no reinforcement what you did should be fine. Flangeing it was a good idea so it will add more strength and after the weld has been ground you won't end up with a weak area around the weld joint.
Oh yeh those directions do come in handy don't they. :D
 
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