[kuhn-77]

I have a Vaper HVLP Primer gun that came in a 3 gun set, and i have a 1977 chevy longbed that is in desperate need of paint, i just finished welding in all the holes in the body but have not done any body work yet, i need a good primer that i can spray over the entire truck to protect it until i can come up with the money to paint it for real, which could take anywhere from 6 months to 1 and a half years what is the best primer out there for this al in all under $250 to do the entire truck?????? any more info needed jsut tell me i'l ltry to help thnx

 

[barthmonster]

The best protection for some of that bare steel or fresh bodywork (bondo) is Epoxy. And its available for approximately $50 to $100 for a gallon. Stuff is 1:1 and has 2 parts. Use a mask and a booth, safety first. The reason for epoxy is it 'seals out' moisture & water. Other primers let your steel rust-out from underneath...

Hope this helps... Be careful!!

 

[39Hemi]

Barthmonster is correct, the ONLY primer that will meet the requirements you stated is epoxy. The best value I have found for epoxy is SPI, you can search this site for more information on the company and you can get the stuff mail order, delivered to your house.
When dealing with epoxy or any other activated (2-part) paint your best choice for a respirator is one that supplies fresh air, if you have good ventilation you don't need a booth. I have an old furnace blower set up as an exhaust fan in my garage and it does a good job of pulling the vapors out. With sufficient ventilation you might be OK with a cartridge respirator with fresh cartridges, it becomes a question of how much risk to your health are you willing to take. These new paints have much better performance than what we had 30 years ago but they are also much more dangerous.

 

[Ranchero_65]

You might want to check Kirker Epoxy primer as well $84.00 shipped to your door and you end up with 2 RTS gallons. You can also get it in black or gray. I been using it for 3 years now and think it is as good as any .

Take Care
Earl

 

[adtkart]

I wouldn't use anything but SPI Epoxy. It is easy to use, and they have outstanding customer support. Check previous posts and you will see that everyone that has used it have raved about it.

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/Pricing Info.htm

Aaron

 

[bullheimer]

so whats the dif btwn Turbo primer, high build, (which all i know is it's much thicker, and sandable) and regular primer. can i cover the turbo, if that is epoxy, with the other primers? can i sand regular primer? can i put bondo over any of them? thx.

 

[adtkart]

The Turbo Primer is not an epoxy. It is a high build primer that cures considerably quicker than the others. The High Build is a thick primer that is great for blocking out minor imperfections. It sprays considerably thicker than the regular primer. The epoxy is a completely different animal than the rest. The epoxy can be applied directly over bare metal and filler applied directly over it. The epoxy will seal out moisture as the other primers will not.

Aaron

 

[smitty55]

Primers

Hi Fellow Rodders,
I have been reading this Thread, because I'll be going down that road of priming. My 46 Ford Truck & My 46 Plymouth Coupe, both have some small rust pitting areas. I had a Bud tell me sand blast the whole body. After the serious body issues are taken care of, he said I should use a apoxy primer to fill in all those tiny pits, and weld pits etc.. Block it down and repeat as needed till I have smooth surface. He was very seriuos about the resperator. He said that stuff will kill ya..
My questions is, does that all sound like a good plan? I have never done a complete body job like this. I have done small patches, and dent removal. So I'll have tons of questions.. I will try to see if the issue has been addressed before to save chatter..
Thanks in advance
Hap