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Working on a '78 CJ7 Frame - just cut out spot of cancer (rust) about 2" x 6" - need to weld in a patch to replace it. First I want to clean out the inside (boxed frame) and treat it with something. I asked POR15 and the tech said leave 1-2 inches from the weld - the POR would turn to ash if heated. That rules out POR15 because the rust is in the bottom of the frame, and the rusted through spot is right there.

Anybody have a better idea?
 

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Abel, is the frame rail your working on open ended?

What you could do is buy some of the por-15 metal ready and saturate the inside of the frame. This chemical will kill the rust and leave a zinc coating over the metal. This will stay even after the weld. If the frame rail is open ended, after you weld in the patch saturate a cloth or one of those fru fru puffed out bathroom balls with por-15 and pull it through the rail a few times to coat it. if you use a sponge make sure its bigger than the frame rail, but sponges are pretty easy to tear so I'd use a strong cotton towel tied to some strong cord you can throw away.

Or you could kill the rust and spray on some weld through primer. Metal ready from Por-15 will kill the rust. muradic(?) acid from a pool supply place will kill rust too.

HK

[ January 29, 2003: Message edited by: Halloweenking ]</p>
 

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Sounds good, King. I can take the bumpers off and the frame ends are open. I reached inside the frame in another area and felt about 1/2" of dirt, so first I'll blow all of the crap out, then acid kill the rust near the weld, weld the patch, and finally pull the POR15 rag through to leave a protective coat internally.

This is a kick-*** forum. I've learned more here than all others combined. Thanks for responding!!
 

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you can always paint it, weld it, scrape/brush the burnt stuff off and paint it again
 

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I have a '41 ford coupe sedan that I had glass blasted in and out. I am replacing metal from the firewall back and did not want to use por15. As soon as I had the body back to my shop I sprayed "Rust-N-Me" in and out. That was 10 months ago and I have not had any return of rust. Any surface rust left (or in your case - lots of it) was converted. You should be able to buy the stuff at your local auto paint supply house in quarts or gallons. 2 qts did my car. You only need to lighty sand (normal procedure) prior to primer/sealer application. Ther are other brand names that do the same. Good luck.
 
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