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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Since I will be sending my 57 into the shop for a 4 link/coil over set here in about 2 months I was wondering what, if any, upgrades I should make on my C clip 12 bolt that will become more permanant once the suspesion brackets are welded on.
My 383 makes 500HP which is run through an older vette iron case Borg Warner T-10. I have 3.73 gears.
My thoughts were to replace the original axles/bearings etc. but I believe there is a kit to replace the C retainer with something stronger?
The car will be used for making trouble on my local streets (sure honey, I'd love to pick up some milk), a couple of car shows a summer and a few passes at the local drag strip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Wow....I guess no one has ever heard of a 12 bolt? Or maybe everyone has jumped ship to a Ford 9?
Come on 12 bolt guys, what sucks on these things? I was shocked to find the rollers on the axle bearings rolling directly on the axle. Both my axles have fairly deep worn groves....all those metal filings can't be good for the rest of the dif....got an opinion on that one?:embarrass :welcome: :embarrass
 

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Elevinpointsixtoone said:
Or maybe everyone has jumped ship to a Ford 9?

The Ford 9 inch is preferred.......:D

With the amount of time, money and parts that you are planning on.......I would jump ship and go to the Ford.

1) no C-clips
2) better selection of gear ratios and parts
3) ease of gear changes
4) the wheel bearings are NOT in the housing
5) LOOKS......the 9 is prettier IMHO...;)
6) strength..with a brace across the rear housing
7) aluminum Strange center sections and Daytona bearings
8) 28, 31, 35 and 40 spline counts available....
9) easier to narrow.......
10 ) real race cars HAVE THEM........why ???


:cool:
 

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If all you are throwing at it is 500 hp, you will be fine as is. GM threw the LS6/M22 combo in front of it.

In response to Deuce:

1. Get a C clip eliminator. HERE is Strange engineering's offering, part #A1100 features Timken roller bearings to be able to run them on the street without leaks, such as regular c clip eliminators do.
2. You already have a gear selected.
3. Once you have your gear set, you are most likely not going to change it out, especially on a street car.
4. C Clip eliminator addresses this issue.
5. What about that nostalgic look of a chrome cover?!
6. Strength - HERE is a good article of where to beef up the 12 bolt.
7. none for that
8. To my knowledge, 30 & 33 spline only.
9. Just as easy with c clip eliminators.
10. Yes, real race cars have the 9 inch, but not worth the extra weight for his intentions using it for the street.
11. KEEP IT GM!!

LOL!! :thumbup:
 

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It is all in good fun. There is really more than one way to accomplish the same goals. There are some EXTREMELY knowledgeable people and this board, and take advantage of that.

I recently rebuilt my 12 bolt. New Eaton Posi, U.S. Gear 4.11's, Yukon axles with c clips, timken bearings. It is real quiet, nice and smooth.
 

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If you are going to do alot of welding onto the housing and need new axles anyways you might want to go with new weld on ends rather then c-clip eliminators (that might be what wildman926 ment). The housing will distort when you weld it and most likely isn't to straight to begin with. If you use weld on ends they go on last after doing all the rest of the welding on the axle and you can compensate for the distortion when you do this.

I would also make sure they weld the axle tubes onto the housing so you don't rotate the center section. I sheared the plug welds on my 12-bolt and almost took out my driveshaft with it (I was only going .01mph).

Some more reasons for sticking with a 12-bolt over a 9"

1) It is lighter then a 9"
2) It is more efficient so you get more of that 500hp to the ground. This is why they even make a 3rd member for a 9" that takes 12-bolt gears.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Good stuff guys, thanks a bunch.

I'll start the research on these options tonight. I'm sure you guessed it but I would prefer to stick with the 12 bolt since it is sitting in car already.

I'll have to post a pic of the axle and see if one of you can ID what car it may have come out of. It has two ears/tabs with rubber grommets cast on the upper 3rd of the 3rd member. They angle forward and towards the outside. Like some locating rod was attached to them.....
 

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If it has the cast in arm locators in the center section it came from a coil spring car. Chevelle type or full size.

Back in the seventies I ran a fast bracket car. I spent thousands of dollars trying to make a twelve bolt live. Axles, Spiders, carriers, bent housings, even the retaining caps break.

I changed to a Dana 60. A heavy unit that has its own set of problems. Back then no "Chevy" racer would even think of using a Ford rear. Poor hypoid angle etc.

I have since been involved with many projects involving the Ford 9". For the money invested it is the only way to go.
 
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