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Howdy,
I've been workin' on an engine that was stout enough to hold a BBC motor. I've got about 5hrs of my time and spent about $50 for the steel wheels and gdr8 hardware. The steel was misc scrap from the shop. I still need to finish the mounting plate and paint it.
 

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49 T&C

Air Tool hanger is really neat. Did you buy a quantity of connectors or is there something else?
There are no other connectors than the quick disconnect fittings on all of the tools. The slots are cut into the angle so that the narrow portion of the fitting slides in between. The flare at the end of the fitting keeps it from falling through. I'll get a pic with the cover open tomorrow that shows what I mean.

Sorry that took so long, came down with a wicked case of the flu.
 

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Here's a blast cabinet I'm just finishing. The first one had a flat front but I couldn't look down into the cabinet so I cut it just like the "real ones." Now I just have a couple of finishing touches to add.





Here's the inside. I covered the chute with aluminim so the medium would slide out.

 

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Hammer torch chisel...
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102 Posts
Grinder stand?

Anybody whip up a decent,cheap and quick to build grinder stand?
I'm looking for some ideas!!
Thanks
Mike
 

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Just one of the guys
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Re: Grinder stand?

Ratdoggy said:
Anybody whip up a decent,cheap and quick to build grinder stand?
I'm looking for some ideas!!
Thanks
Mike
Well casing and two flat pieces of steel. Lag to floor.
 

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or Jeff, or Doc, or...
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989 Posts
Re: Grinder stand?

Ratdoggy said:
Anybody whip up a decent,cheap and quick to build grinder stand?
I'm looking for some ideas!!
Thanks
Mike
Use a 20" dia. farm "disc". You can get them for $16.00, weld it to 4" pipe with a 3/8" or 1/2" top plate. Bolt grinder or vice to it. Viola'!
 

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give some close ups of the car rottisserie, im trying to build one but all i can find are the ones on ebay, i dont want to have to weld to my frames and such, i want detailed pics man
 

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The rotator is simply two engine stands, cut off front wheel sections and welded to each end of one stand for more width and stability.
A section of tube steel slid over the extensions where the front wheels were - to tie the two stands together.
2" x 1/4" angle sections fabbed to bolt to front and rear suspension points and the engine stand.
I have added (since photos) additional bracing from the horizontal(axles) to the vertical section for more stability.
NOTE - pay attention to the angle of the engine mounting plate - they are typically not horizontal - slight tilt back.
so far it seems stable and one person can tilt the car easily.
 

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I'm lookin' to learn.
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Looks like it can only rotate part-way in either direction since the pivots are located within the length on the vehicle. Even with these limitations it looks like you have a winner here. I'm gonna pick up a couple stands from the local clearance store for $35 each and build one for myself...with extra metal it should come out under $100.:thumbup: I'll use mine extensively for stripping and painting my chassis (when I get there). Great idea and inexpensive too.
 

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MI2600 said:
These are two tools that I personally fabricated. The standard model on the left and the one on the right is for more complex work.
Be careful not to stab your brain! On a serious note, it was innovations just like these that enabled the US to mobilize so quickly for World War II. (Well, maybe not the paper clip thingy, but you get the point!)
 

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345,

Believe it or not, I always keep a couple of clips in the garage and basement for various poking/prodding tasks.

Don't leave home without them.
 

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Laissez les bons temps rouler
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Well, I got an old bakers rack from work a while back, and was trying to figure out what I was going to do with it. I finally figured it out. I was going to replace my old wooden roll-a-round with a new one.

The rack was originaly 6 feet tall, I cut the top off and dropped it down to 36 inches, removing about 2 feet of the rack. I used some of the old shelves as bracing to keep the top on. I drilled holes and riveted it together. If I knew how to weld aluminum i would have gone that route.

For a top work surface, I got an old Aluminum sign from my dad off of a tug boat. I measured what I needed for the top, cut it out, and riveted it to the top.

Then the fun part began, I had to use an angle grinder and a wire brush to remove the 7 layers of blue paint from the sign top. I looked like a friggin smurf when I was done. But, it was worth it.

Once I got the cart itself finished I decided to build a box on the bottom to house some stuff. I used some plywood I had laying around for that. Right now I have my clar cleaning stuff in there. Once I begin working on the Packard, I expect it to be full of tools. I will also be putting insome more shelves when they are needed.

Here are some really bad pics I took with my phone.

Chris

This is how it stood at work, upside down and missing a wheel.


This is it now, short, with new wheels and a top.


If you look carefully, you can see the Packard in the garage to the right.


With "top" of box removed
 
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