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i know i need to use a wire wheel and get rid all all remaining rust and take off all remaining soft metal.then i would prime and fill with fiberglass bondo then smooth with bondo then sand. whats better and would guarantee no spots after final paint????
 

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The rust converter I have used do need rust to react with. In changes it to a hard primer like coat.
If you have totally removed the rust, and have got the front and back side perfectly clean, I would just glass over it from the back. It will seal it all up. Follow with a good primer and paint or undercoating material.

Chris
 

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Turbo is right IF you get the metal PERFECTLY clean. Only additon I would make to his formula is I would paint the bare metal with a ligtht coat of acid etching primer B4 adding the bondo. Primer bonds better to the metal and bondo bonds better to the primer.
 

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Good point willys. A quick pass with 36 grit will also remedy the bondo adhesion problem. I always at least use some 80 to rough things up...40 or 36 if I have it handy.

Chris
 

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www.zerorust.com this is what Iam useing as my first coat to bare metal. Then primer/sealer then paint. Probably will do the bondo/fill thing after the primer/sealer. This stuff is a lot easier and safer then POR 15.

:D
 

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Originally posted by TurboS10:
<strong>The rust converter I have used do need rust to react with. In changes it to a hard primer like coat.

Chris</strong><hr></blockquote>

hmmm

I hope you don't mind a dumb question. What exactly is rust converter?

The reason I ask is that one of my sons just bought a '62 Chevy pickup that's about 75% truck and 25% rust. :eek:

Would this stuff help? I told him I thought he needed to sand everything down to the metal, but I've never actually done any of this myself.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
 
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