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Discussion Starter #1
which weight oil should I go with?

306 mexican shortblock with forged rods and pistons (9to1), moly rings, steel main girdle all ARP hardware, fluidampner, double roller t-chain with TFS stage 2 cam, moroso 1 piece pushrods, TFS 1.7 roller rockers, TFS R heads box stock, TFS R intake box stock, TFS phenolic spacer, TFS 75mm t-body elbow, bbk 75mm t-body, zex nos 75mm plate dual shark nozzles, bullet 75mm blowthrough mass air with 42ib injectors, 255 in tank with a 255 frame mounted fuel pumps aeromotive regulator, procharger D1 with 3.5 inch pulley and 3 core intercooler, k&n big conical, hooker super comp TFS R headers, 3 inch exhaust with cats, x-pipe and dynomax bullet mufflers. msd 6btm box, msd super conducter wires and coil, 3.55 gears auburn posi, subframe connectors, saleen springs, steeda caster/camber plates, koni shocks
 

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mitmaks said:
which weight oil should I go with?

306 mexican shortblock with forged rods and pistons (9to1), moly rings, steel main girdle all ARP hardware, fluidampner, double roller t-chain with TFS stage 2 cam, moroso 1 piece pushrods, TFS 1.7 roller rockers, TFS R heads box stock, TFS R intake box stock, TFS phenolic spacer, TFS 75mm t-body elbow, bbk 75mm t-body, zex nos 75mm plate dual shark nozzles, bullet 75mm blowthrough mass air with 42ib injectors, 255 in tank with a 255 frame mounted fuel pumps aeromotive regulator, procharger D1 with 3.5 inch pulley and 3 core intercooler, k&n big conical, hooker super comp TFS R headers, 3 inch exhaust with cats, x-pipe and dynomax bullet mufflers. msd 6btm box, msd super conducter wires and coil, 3.55 gears auburn posi, subframe connectors, saleen springs, steeda caster/camber plates, koni shocks
How much of this description actually has anything to do with what oil you should be using?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
as it is blown engine compression increases DUH! :spank: Personally I think 5W30 would be good choice. Of course Ill go with synthetic and K&N filter as its high dollar engine and I dont want to rebuild it anytime soon
 

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Hates: Liver. Loves: Diesel
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The blown engine has very little to do with oil weight. Oil weight is primarily determined by bearing clearances and operating temps.
 

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Hates: Liver. Loves: Diesel
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Yes, but that has nothing to do with bearing tolerances. If you modify a low-power stock motor for double the power using cam and compression, you don't change the oil. Same goes for blower motors. You're upping power by adding "pressure" to the combustion.

Bearings operate by using a known oil viscosity squeezed into a known space. It doesn't matter how much pressure you give it from the rod, it operates correctly with the correct viscosity. Too thick an oil won't get in there fast enough, and too thin an oil will squeeze out too fast. Its not a matter of thicker oil suspending more pressure, its a matter of the proper oil being able to make the right pressure.

If you're using stock tolerances, use stock oil. If you find that the oil is getting hot and dropping pressure, install an oil cooler.
 

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I would think that 10w-30 Mobil one would be a good choice for a roller-cammed engine. 10w-30 RotellaT for a flat-tappet mill.

BTW, that engine will live longer with clearances for the mains at .0030" and the rod no tighter than .0025"

tom
 

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hey guys, i think i am behind in the new oil thing, are you saying i need to use rotllea oil in my old 61 ,283, and why?
 

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Newer oils have fewer additives that prevent wear in places like flat tappet lifters. They were removed because the little bit that gets burned is an emission problem, and since most new cars use rollers the API and EPA removed them. Rotella has higher levels of those additives which is why it helps at those high-friction points like flat tappets.
 
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