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hi,i stripped my roof to bare metal and removed all the old caulk,sealer from the edges near the drip rails as surface rust was showing.I sprayed 2 coats of gray SPI epoxy now i need to reseam.What 3m sealer caulk do i use? there are so many! Thanks Mike
 

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I used Heavy Duty Drip Sealer, but it still cracked and is now showing a bit of rust. When you find something that works, let me know. The best thing that I ever did was drill a hole in the bottom of the drip rail so that water can drain out. What a terrible design this was.
 

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I like using the basic urethane sealers for this, there's also flowable 2K sealers made for drip rails that also work good on some designs. 3M's Ultrapro urethane or Fusor's version, Rubberseal and Transtar also sell similar versions. You'll need the special gun for the foil packs-or just slice the corner open and apply it by hand. 3M's Utrapro MSP is the most toolable IMO and works very well on seams that need to be brushed. Shoot another coat of epoxy or a thin coat of 2K primer over the seamsealer before paint.
 

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Just had my '39 Chevy sedan repainted and....two months after paint was dry I noticed all along (inside) the drip rails the paint was cracking open and the material (seam sealer) in it was very, very soft. The whole thing is now gonna have to be stripped out and repainted.
Does anyone have any suggestions on the product that should be used?....and....if going back with the same seam sealer (I believe they used 3M seam sealer)...is there a proper method for applying it?....so (1) that the paint won't crack and (2) that it will not remain "soft"?
When I first saw the finished paint job, I noticed that the drip rails looked like the sealer had been "globed on" way too thick (the rails were very rough looking). Someone told me that might have been the problem, and that if it had been applied smoother (and in a smaller quantity) the paint would have been okay and not cracked. Can anybody verify this?
 

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I have had good service from the UPOL "tiger seal" it is an adhesive seam sealer that is easy to work with and so far has served me and my customer cars well for several years now. I usually apply it to the drip rails in two coats, as putting seam sealer thick on the first coat seems to really affect dry time (if it ever sets up at all). I put a small bead in with the caulking gun, then using a spreader or whatever I can get down in there (usually my finger:D) spread it smooth and let it dry at least 24 hours, then apply another small bead and smooth it again to build the factory looking thickness. So far I have not had it crack, shrink, or separate. I have been using it for almost 5 years now, after the last tube of 3M literally cracked and fell off the car prior to paint. If you decide to put any brand very thick (more than 1/8"), you should give it a few days to dry before top coating it with anything to ensure a good dry. I have heard good things about the 2 part fuzor sealers as well, but have never used them.

Kelly
 

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2 part Fusor sealer. This stuff looks good. I just love the idea of 2 part products.

 

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I have had excellent results with the lord fusor 800 EZ seam sealer for recreating the factory looking drip rails. It is very easy to work with and as Kelly states doing a second flow coat after a day or two drying time does help. I will even goes as far as priming and blocking it out to get it super smooth in there. Have not had any trouble with cracking or chipping so far. It is not a 2 part sealer and you can use a standard caulking gun to apply it.
 

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I can see from reading lots of body men's comments on the forum that there might be different seam sealers for different jobs....and that some (inferior) ones might even get used in trying to hold the costs down for the customer.
In my case, I just need a good product (one tube) to clean up my drip rails ......that won't crack. I think the softness of my current 3M product may have been caused by the guys applying it too thick and then not waiting for it to dry (if it ever would have after being applied that thick!). I believe I will stay away from solvent based sealers and use a good quality 1K urethane like either Lord Fusor 800 EZ or Tiger Seal by UPOL. I like that the Lord Fusor is also sandable after drying and for all I know, maybe the Tiger seal is also.

Many thanks to all you guys who posted on here. I know why I come to this forum every time I want a question answered. It always gets answered!
 

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I have never tried to sand the tiger seal and the tech sheet doesn't say if it can be or not. I don't think it would do well being sanded, because it never sets up really hard, it stays somewhat soft and very flexible.

Kelly
 
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