white smoke when engine revs about 6000

could it be because the rings haven't seated yet??

Something Is Leaking

The only thing I've ever seen make white smoke is water(steam). I didn't want to be the one to bring it up either. Maybe head gasket, but for your sake I hope it ain't.

the rings only have about 10 min break in time I am going to break them in and then see what happens.

I would think if a head gasket was bad it would do it all of the time but it only does it at high rpm's

i drained the oil and didn't see any water in the oil

If the engine has been heated up and cooled back down 4-5 times, go ahead and re torque the heads on it.

I have always loosened the intake bolts before doing this- although it may not be necessary.

At 6 grand, smoke from the rings still not being fully broken in might be what's causing the "white" smoke- but usually that white smoke does indicate steam like OLNOLAN mentioned.

The intake gaskets can allow water to get into the end ports sometimes. All the head and intake bolts should have gotten thread sealer on them, as well.

I did put thread sealer on the bolts so that shouldn't be the problem I will check the bolts again and see if thats what the problem is. I just thought it was odd it only does it at 6 grand and not at any other time

well I checked the intake bolts and I turned 7 out of the 12 a 1/2 a turn so Hopefully this will fix my problem I will check the heads bolts in the morning.

WHY are you reving up a motor with 10 minute run time at 6'000 rpm??? is it a dragster or something???did i misread your post??? that's not proper break-in procedure as far as i know...possible that head gaskets haven't fully seated yet... there is a metal ring around combustion chamber only,,, water seals are only gasket material...need time to swell-up from coolant and heat to seal properly...
or am i wrong??

it might as well be a dragster I am using it in the mud for competition's. so it will be a wot at all times. I didn't mean to rev it up so high, but I was bending over to look at the temp gauge cause it wasn't working and I accidentally leaned over to far on my leg and my foot was on the accelerator so I didn't mean to rev it up so high

I drained the oil tightened 7 of the 12 intake bolts about a 1/2 turn a piece adjusted the floats on the carb and checked all of the studs on my heads which none of them were loose. I started it up and it seems to be runing alot better. I let it run for about 15 min to seat the rings I will let it run a few more times before I rev it up really high since I didn't want to do that in the first place. like I said in one of my other posts. Thanks for all of the help I really appreciate it.

Take it easy on that engine break it in correct first.

I am I accidentally leaned to far over on my leg when I checked to see why the temp gauge wasn't working I have this motor in a jeep and it is tight in the cab of the jeep to, my big butt is almost to big LOL. nah I just wasn't paying atttention to what I was doing. I let it set and run for about 15 min today I will do it again sometime today after it has cooled down. The temp got up to 200 so I am going to let it cool and then let it run again for about 15 more then probably again on sun I will do it again then I will see where I stand.

Mash it wide open a few times as soon as it warms up....you'll fry those rings if you dont. Forget all of that baby it BS if you have a solid roller setup which I think you do seat the rings and go racing

What kind of rings are in it? Moly, Chrome, Cast? Moly filled rings seat in very quickly unless you have the wrong cylinder finish. Chrome takes awhile with regular cast being in the middle of the two. Cylinder wall finish is important with the 3 different types and never let a new engine just sit and idle....heck, never let any engine just sit idling...

x2 BBCMudbogger, all this baby-it advice is pure BS. You have to LOAD the rings to seat them, drive it around the lot and GET ON IT full throttle up to 3/4+ of your redline RPM. You run the risk of poor ring seal if you don't.

Also, there is NO break-in to bearings, they are good or they are trash, babying it won't help or save it if there is a clearance problem that wasn't caught during assembly.

they are moly file ti fit. I thikn I have the problem taken care of I haven't had it at WOT yet. I will wait until this weekend at the mudd bogg to get on it like that agai, I will have it up to 7 grand then. It should hold it with no problem

Moly rings break in right away unless cylinder finish is wrong. They should be seated by the time cam break in procedure is finished if not before. Wall finish for moly is supposed to be very smooth. If it's not smooth, it'll just take the moly off the rings.