Note the structure that looks like a rectangle, just behind the grille. This framework stabilizes the front clip structure where the grille is into a single strong piece. It allows the entire weight of the clip to be carried on it, without bending or flexing. Also provides a place to mount the hinges that the clip tilts on, and a place to attach the lifting mechanism, in this case a linear actuator (12 V. electric screw jack). The shiny tubes in the first pic are 1/2" EMT (conduit) used as diagonal braces for support and light weight. I use no latches on the cowl area with this setup, once it's down, it stays down. Same for up, once it's open, it's not gonna come crashing down on you doing engine work...
In the second pic you get a better idea how the whole thing tilts. The thin strut with the white tag on it is the actual hinge arm, it pivots on a bolt thru a hole in the front bumper iron, just under that slot in the green front apron. It's just a 1/2" bolt with double nuts to allow for tension adjustment and locking it in place. The actuator is the black cylinder thing in the middle, the bottom end mounts to a bracket bolted to the front rad. crossmember in the frame, the upper end to a bracket on the front (core support) tilt structure. Barely visible in the pic above the upper end are the diagonal braces of 3/8" rod which triangulate the bracket location on the lower bar to the upper corners of the structure. I added these after I found the lower bar was bending/flexing under the weight of the clip.
The whole setup mounts ahead of the radiator, and behind the grille. I had to mount it in this location because of how low I wanted the car to sit. Works very well. What you cannot see in the pic is how the fenders and front sheetmetal have been welded together with the MIG to make them a solid structure also. The hood attaches with 4 1/4" nuts/bolts in each corner, thru holes drilled into the fender and hood side support lips. I use a couple spacer washers to maintain the hood gap. By doing it this way, I could engineer the front clip together with the hood off, and see what needed to be done to make things work. I'd suggest bolting the hood on before attaching the support framework to the hinges, so the whole thing can be dialed in as it will normally sit. I also have a length of conduit linking the upper rear corners of the fenders together, to maintain the spacing when the hood is off. You can see this one, it's the horizontal one in the first pic.
Lemme know if there's anything else you want to see. I can shoot digipics and post them here in under 20 minutes.
Be aware that doing a flipnose is not an easy job. Unless you build the support structure strong, you will have fitment, alignment, and vibration problems at best, or screw up your front clip at worst. Note I run no inner fenders, I don't plan to, but if needed I'd probably fab up some simple ones from aluminum sheet instead of trying to make the originals work. Gives more of a race/kustom car feel...
[ January 15, 2003: Message edited by: DrChop ]</p>
The hood is bolted to the fenders with a 1/4" x 1" bolt/nut arrangement, one at each corner, with a couple flat washers between the flanges on the panels. This way the hood still appears stock, and the gap down each side is consistent. It also allows me to remove the hood easily, like when I was fabbing up just where to put the actuator since it was just the fenders and grille that would then tilt.
[ January 26, 2003: Message edited by: DrChop ]</p>