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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks.

This is not really a question about where to put the O2 sensor, but rather a question about whether or not I should even bother.

This is pertaining to the blower motor in my altered. The question of "should I even bother" is because it has "zoomies".

Now...my wideband tuner is the type with two sensors, so that I could put a sensor in each collector (if I HAD collectors). So, I could put a senor in one tube on one side of the engine and a sensor in one tube on the other side of the engine.

This of course would only give me readings on two cylinders.

Would this be worth even bothering with? Keep in mind that I already own the wideband, so it's not as if I am going out and buying one for this purpose.

Has anyone else used a wideband with zoomies? Or is this one of those things I'll just have to try and see if it works.

Thanks.
 

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bentwings
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I just installed a wide band on my Willys. Just install the O2 sensor on the top of the pipe of your choice. It says not more than 10 or 2 o'clock from vertical in the instructions. The reason is that residual moisture and or oil will condense on the sensor. The sensor needs to be powered when ever the motor is running. If you are not going to use it, remove the sensor or it will quickly get fouled out. Don't forget to use never seize on the threads but don't get any on the sensor end or you will get bad readings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
bentwings said:
I just installed a wide band on my Willys. Just install the O2 sensor on the top of the pipe of your choice. It says not more than 10 or 2 o'clock from vertical in the instructions. The reason is that residual moisture and or oil will condense on the sensor. The sensor needs to be powered when ever the motor is running. If you are not going to use it, remove the sensor or it will quickly get fouled out. Don't forget to use never seize on the threads but don't get any on the sensor end or you will get bad readings.
Thank you.
Your Willys has zoomies then? And you get a good reading?
I'll just take out the sensors when I have it dialed in.
 

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bentwings
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Sorry if I misled you, I don't have zoomies but the sensor will read fine if you don't get too close to the exit. Try to stay some where 12"+ from the head and 12 "min from the open end.
Just pick a pipe and keep in mind that you will be only reading that pipe or one on each side, however you plant the sensors.

Be sure you check your wiring so it is ok when unplugged. Mine has a module and a calibration circuit built into the wire harness. Frankly I'd just leave them installed and plugged in. The sensors are designed to last for at least 100k or better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So, in your opinion...
The reading that I get from just two cylinders will be as valid as the reading I get from all eight?

I have installed this same wideband in five different engines. Just never one with zoomies.

I was just concerned that the reading from only two cylinders may not be good enough to accurately jet my engine at the track.
 

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bentwings
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My son crews on one of the top nostalgia FC's and they use exhaust temp to tune the motor. They use double ports and tune both the idle and the high speed with the ex temp. I've seen their displays and they are easily within 200 deg across the board usually about 125 to 150 max. they don't burn pistons very often.

If you are running gas without ports I'd say use the o2 on each side. I'd tune it with the plugs to get the mixture distribution close by changing nozzels then use the o2 for the final tune as it will be nearly an across the board tune.

If you are running alcohol with ports I'd adjust the ports for an even idle temp then use the plugs for the general mix. use the o2 for the final tune, again and keep your eye on the plugs. If you are going to step off the deck and play for keeps you can fine tune the with o2 untill you burn something. I feel that with the o2 you can fine tune much easier. that's tough to admit for this old racer but you have to stay up on things or the new guys will steal your ball.

If you are running good at all I think an o2 on each side would be great. I suppose you could put a bung in each pipe and switch sensors around occasionally but there are enough other things to play with besides this on a racer.

I'm switching to a blower for my street rod so the o2 in the collector will work nice for the tuning. I'm actually only using one as I feel I can't change much one side or the other. If I have to, something is wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have it dialed in as good as it's going to get without a wideband. I have done a couple of 7000 RPM chops to get a good reading. I'm actually one of those nuts that cuts the plug open to "get to the bottom of it".

It runs very good, it's not lean or fat from what I have seen after the chops. But, as you well know...Staring at a spark plug is not like being able to see that you're running 11.9 afr (or whatever) at X rpm.

I was just thinking...since I have the wideband, I might as well use it to really fine tune it.
 

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bentwings
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I think we are talking about the same thing.

The next step is to use data recording to get AFR's at various rpm. I'm thinking this is where you are heading to squeeze the last horse out of the corral.

Don't get to engrossed in AFR's so you forget the next round. haha

As for cutting the plugs up, back in my alcohol days after the threads colored up 4+ threads we started checking leak rates and making sure we had a rack of pistons ready. 60 over on the blower and 8500 pluss 11:1 we cut a pretty fine line between a good run and toast. It was a matter of how much of the plug was left rather than color. On Nitro once you start pulling the plugs out with no porcelain left at all you know you are on the edge. In the blown gas dragster days a good run usually left a good amount of aluminum on most of the plugs.

My son showed me some of their plugs and they look like they just came out of the box on a 6.09 run and are 'sandblasted' on the following 6.01 run.

Are you running injectors or carbs??
 

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bentwings
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That sounds like neat machine. certainly not "cool" temp wise where you run I would guess. haha

You should be able to tune your pump shot with the AFR. At least you should see the numbers change as you make tune ups. We found that the FC really likes a lot of fuel at the initial hit of the throttle. A fast, very rich idle works well. Too bad there isn't a port line set up for gas. You would need very small lines and jets that would get easily plugged up without a very fine filter.
 
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