Wider rear track effect on oversteer

Its just a fun driver. With the intent of driving/parking it anywhere. I hate not being to be able to see around a car relying entirely on cameras or having the door open.

The cab actually is tilted down for easier visablity to have minimal blocked areas letting me parallel park this thing in a city like Chicago.

The goal here is to eventually after alot of tuning at 300 NA. Run a turbocharged setup on basically a junkyard ring and gasket longblock.

Drive around nice around 400hp. But if I want to have some fun I can bolt in diffrent gearing, tires, turn up things closer to 650hp and push them hard.

When things break. I have spares upon spares with cheap spares available to bolt in.

The thing has a 2" reciever as its rear bumper. I will eventually build a trailer to pull around a spare longblock, transmission, 3rd, hoist, tires, etc with the intent of doing a powertour drive someday.

Hopefully out there to help others with my little moble shop more then fixing my own breakdowns.

It won't ever be track approved. Floor, firewall, cab modification, just a few of the reasons. But I may sneak in on a open night just to see what it could do before being kicked out and told to get safety stuff. 2" reciever could also facilitate a 3 point wheelie bar setup just for fun.

Of course the main reason for using 2 speeds is to keep that front end down. I am basically going to run 454 clutches and 5500 shifts. With a short life for what will be a clutch that cost around $200 and can be replaced in about an hour.



Oh yes. I have been watching wilson for a while, as well as many others. This will squat down nice under acceleration with most of that weight going on that rear passenger tire due to the engine offset. One of the benefits of the cantilevered setup is I should be able to have a good amount of front travel before those tires leave the ground without camber changes and I believe I can even eliminate bumpsteer with misalignment heims to a high degree (60) at those raised heights.

Shock and shock valving are going to be a pain to figure out. I am making it drivable without shocks. The rear is dang near perfect right now. Set up soft but still has plenty of travel.

The front not so much. With the to stiff, to firm, I need to get into custom to make it just right suspension being one of about 6 reasons.






I think I need to think diagonally here. In a right turn I am not just applying weight to the outside drivers front tire I am removing weight from the passenger rear tire.

The rear is fixed so scrub should be constant in the rear leaving just the front to be a factor. I am using factory offset rims so that should eliminate that isdue there.





Now breaking in a turn things get fun.

If I set it up with high antidive it will try to keep the frontend up under breaking. The tradeoff is that it will also try to keep the frontend up under acceleration.

Do I trade better cornering for slower acceleration? Or rely on the weight bias alone being a factor in keeping that rear from lifting? Or play with the airbag valving to make it fast evough that can stiffen up the front suspension to prevent dive in that way? Having such a small wheelbase makes for fun trying to find universal suspension tricks I can apply. But I still want the park it anywhere use and the wheelbase it requires.






The more I look into this the less the track offset will affect things. I dont think it will be a contributing factor worth changing things over.
I can just be a good boy and drive it "like a truck" in the turns. Most of my trucks end up going sideways in the turns. But I am slowly getting a bit better about self control. Still want this to handle as good as I can make it.





Fact is I just need to build and test at this point. I have went as far as I can on paper. I have decided tomake the crossmember and rest of the link brackets bolt in. This will add weight and not be as strong as a fully welded setup. But will allow me to remake several setups changing things after testing.


Onto testing I have a trailer with no suspension I can put this on. Strap down the tires and drive down the road with the thing running. Take turns, hard breaking, hard acceleration, etc all with the engine running and thing strapped. Then review and make changes to avoid rolling this out the gate. Then once I am happy get some real seat time to further adjust things.

Not ideal at all. But thats what I am doing. Back to ordering parts and building.