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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks for the heads up on the bad link X..
The specs are below..HD won't let me link to the pic...
I just noticed this runs on 240..so I'll need to find something
suitable that runs on 120.


Internet/Catalog # 100005910
Brand HUSKY
Model # HS7810
Air Delivery 12.6 SCFM @ 90 PSI
Assembled Depth (In Inches) 31 In.
Assembled Height (In Inches) 78
Assembled Weight (In LBS) 458
Assembled Width (In Inches) 41
Carrying System No
Engine Horsepower 7 HP
Max Air Pressure Delivery 175 PSI
Motor Induction
Power Requirement 240 volts/17.3 amps
Regulator Yes
Tank Capacity 80 Gal.
Tank Pressure Gauge Yes
Type Air Compressor
UPC CODE 045564587321
Weight(Lbs.) 458 Lbs.
Wheels/Portability No
Working Pressure Gauge Yes
 

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Slickriffs said:
thanks for the heads up on the bad link X..
The specs are below..HD won't let me link to the pic...
I just noticed this runs on 240..so I'll need to find something
suitable that runs on 120.


Internet/Catalog # 100005910
Brand HUSKY
Model # HS7810
Air Delivery 12.6 SCFM @ 90 PSI
Assembled Depth (In Inches) 31 In.
Assembled Height (In Inches) 78
Assembled Weight (In LBS) 458
Assembled Width (In Inches) 41
Carrying System No
Engine Horsepower 7 HP
Max Air Pressure Delivery 175 PSI
Motor Induction
Power Requirement 240 volts/17.3 amps
Regulator Yes
Tank Capacity 80 Gal.
Tank Pressure Gauge Yes
Type Air Compressor
UPC CODE 045564587321
Weight(Lbs.) 458 Lbs.
Wheels/Portability No
Working Pressure Gauge Yes
You're going to be hard pressed to find a 110V compressor that will work well for painting a car.

The problem with these lighter duty compressors is they really pump the water out because they run nearly constantly when using air tools - I wouldn't even consider painting a car with one just because of the airline contamination, and especially a metallic color as the air pressure changes too much to get a consistent flow to the metallic.
 

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They most likely are lying if they claim even 2 HP on 110 volts :nono: Also the specs you have listed show that Husky is lying about the 7 HP! At 17.3 AMPs @240 volts it is much closer to 4 HP instead of 7, a true 5 HP motor will be rated at least 21-23 AMPs. That Husky is however a pretty good outfit for the money and is in no way underpowered for a compressor in that price range and will serve you well it is just that we have become accustomed to seeing ridiculously inflated power numbers. If you can find a way to power a 240 outfit you will be far better off because ANY 110 volt machine is going to have serious air delivery problems no matter what the manufacturer claims.
 

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The Penny Pincher
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Ditto to what Oldred said. You have to figure around 9 amps for
each horsepower. A 220v is two 110v lines carrying the same amps so
my 5 hp (220v) Eaton says 23 amps, thats 23 ea leg or 46 total.
A 110V @ 15 amps is still 15 total which is just over 1HP and that's about
all the amps a undedicated circuit can take, 20 is about the biggest.

If you must go 110 volt, you can spray without a problem.
I used one of those Sears 110V for years and it had no problem
keeping up with my Astro HVLP gun which pulls 10 [email protected]
And there are lower cfm guns out there.
That's pretty easy for a larger 110 volt compressor to keep up with.
But if you want to use a gun like Bondokings's 16 cfm'r, or
any air sander, you'll need 220v. And to maintain the 90psi for
most air sanders, you need a 2 stage compressor. :pimp:
 

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Rambo_The_Dog said:
You're going to be hard pressed to find a 110V compressor that will work well for painting a car.

The problem with these lighter duty compressors is they really pump the water out because they run nearly constantly when using air tools - I wouldn't even consider painting a car with one just because of the airline contamination, and especially a metallic color as the air pressure changes too much to get a consistent flow to the metallic.
2 110 compressors tied togther within an air supply system and running off there own 30A breakers, will work fine for painting, as long as there is a good water trap. 1 of my 110's probably produces 1 pint or so per hour in the tank, but being I have the piping for my water trap regulator running up to the celing and then down to about 32" from 12', I get no water
 

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Problem Child,Hard Case
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1,773 Posts
Not exactly.
You DOUBLE the VOLTAGE,120-240, and your amperage is cut in HALF.
You have TWICE the POWER to run it with so, it's easier on the power.COST will be the SAME as the meter SEE's the current but your ONLY pulling 23 amps TOTAL jc. Push-Pull.
Ohms Law.
Watts divided by volts=amps
AmpsXvolts=watts
3 phase is EASIER on the system as it divides the LOAD into 3 parts
vs.
Single phase,220v. house service which only divides the load into 2 parts.
vs.
120v. which pulls EVERYTHING from 1 leg.
Your paying for the SAME electricty but you have MORE available cause you in essence have 3 legs to power from instead of 2 and 3 phase is easier on the STARTING current to fire it off.MO' Power. :cool:
Get some 220v and power that thing off and get some paint done. :thumbup:
 

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matt167 said:
2 110 compressors tied togther within an air supply system and running off there own 30A breakers, will work fine for painting, as long as there is a good water trap. 1 of my 110's probably produces 1 pint or so per hour in the tank, but being I have the piping for my water trap regulator running up to the celing and then down to about 32" from 12', I get no water
It's not that you can't paint a car with a 110V single phase compressor, again it's that there is a huge issue with trapping moisture and other line contaminants from these smaller compressors running so much. Matt137 sounds like he has a good filtration system in place on his setup.

Also when spraying basecoart/clearcoats these days it's tough to lay an even base out, especially a metallic, if you don't have a steady volume of air.

Still - With the time it takes to prep a car to paint and the horrendous cost of materials these days it doesn't really pay to cut corners.

If you have the extra time and money a good quality 220v compressor will never let you down.
 

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A lot of good read here..Thanks everybody...

Anyone had a garage 110 converted to 220?

Tx

Keith

Keith, putting in an additional 220 circuit for the compressor is pretty
easy if your breaker panel happens to be in the garage as mine is.
Most breaker panels have a provision for a 220V leg so all you need is a
suitable breaker for the circuit. Make sure if you do it yourself that
you exercise extreme caution ! You also would need wire capable of
carrying the amperage.

If you plan on putting the compressor in the garage and want to paint in there also thats not a good idea. You would be better off if you can put the compressor in a ventilated utility closet etc and run the piping to your garage.

You might also want to look at the 80Gallon Kobalt compressor at Lowes.
When I purchased my Kobalt which is the 60gal variety the pump had
added vanes for cooling the air before it entered the tank. I believe
the Kobalt line is made by snapon so its worth a look before you drop the
cash.

><
 

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Problem Child,Hard Case
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If you have an ele. clothes dryer in close proxmity you can "rig" a jumper cord out of a 10 guage extension cord with a male dryer plug on one end and wire the other into the comp. Otherwise,your looking at running some 10-2w/ground romex from a panel with a 30 A. double pole breaker to the comp.
Might be time to call an electrician buddy if you got one if your not "sure" about electricty. ;)
 

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Around the same size compressor as I have. It should do fine for painting with most guns, but stuff like sandblasting and running things like my 8" orbital still tax it a little bit, spending a lot of time running. Lots better then 5 hp and a 3 hp I used in my younger years. Spent a lot of time waiting and pausing, letting compressor get some rest back then. I don't have 220 or any electricity for that matter in my garage. The compressor didn't come with the wiring, so I got one long enough to run to the dryer outlet in the utility room. Some day I want a nice garage, but now make due, and don't want to stick money into a place I am renting and don't own.
 

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I have that 7hp 60 gallon Husky. It will do the job. It is a little slow to fill back up but i have painted many cars with it and it will keep up with most tools.If i had to buy again i would check out the two stage Husky that is out now. Two stage is the way to go! As far as 220.Its no big deal. An electrician may sock you a few hundred to run the line depending on how far. I did my own but have found its easy to find electricians who need bodywork,welding ect.Or even a qualified electrians 'helper' knows enough to do the job.
 

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That may be a dual stage shoddy, not positive, since it doesn't say in the specs he listed. The specs look similar to mine. Mine is advertised as a 7.5 hp if I remember and has an 80 gal tank like in his specs. Many of the compressors look pretty similar under different names. Mine is a devilbiss, but not sure who makes them for husky. Not too long after mine was on sale, They had another brand of compressor they were selling, but it looked almost identical to mine other then the color.
 

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I know for a fact Husky is a relabled Campbel Hausfeld. My Husky came with CH paperwork,warranty papers and parts sheet. My buddy had the same compressor with the CH label.Exactly the same except his was blue,mine was red. CH makes a pretty good compressor.We abused the crap out of his.Used it everyday in a small body shop.When it started blowing oil.We bought a new piston and ring and head gasket and it was back in action.It was to small for sandblasting so we bought the 7.5 hp 80 gallon Husky It seemed like the same motor as the 60 gallon,just with a bigger tank. Was not that impressive.Took a long time to recover.That was definatley not a two stage. I saw the two stage 80 gallon at Home Depot last week. I wuld probablly get that or an Ingersol Rand if my compressor blew up tomorrpw.
 

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Shoddy, You have made a point I have been harping on just about forever and that is about tank size. It is common to hear the term "60 gal compressor" or "80 gal compressor" but really it is misleading to refer to a compressor in "gallons" since the size of the tank is about the least of someone's concerns when choosing a compressor. Most people mistakenly relate a big tank with big compressor but nothing could be farther from the truth as you have pointed out in the example of the 60 vs 80 gal tanks on the two compressors you mention. The manufacturers are well aware that a lot of people will run straight to the biggest tank in the store regardless of the actual performance the thing is capable of and since it costs them next to nothing extra to build an 80 gallon instead of a 60 gal they will supply these things with oversize tanks that actually can do more harm than good. Since this thread started we have discussed tank size, HP ratings and AMPs but not once has CFM been mentioned which is the real performance yardstick. CH does indeed install the same compressor/motor on both 60 and 80 gallon tanks on some models along with a hefty price increase when the 60 gal would be the better choice regardless of price. It is a fact that when looking at CH/Husky and several other econo brands the HP ratings are exaggerated to the the point of ridiculous and the motor/pump combo(CFM capability) is usually better suited to a tank quite a bit smaller than what is used. The big impressive phony HP numbers and oversize tanks don't mean a thing to performance if the CFM is not up to the job and the thing will still run out of air no matter how impressive it looks.
 
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