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Discussion Starter #1
I found out that I have a Ford Courior master brake booster. Do you think it is big enough for my 37 Ford Tudor?? I am running a Disc/Drum system.. This has a remote filler that would be mounted on the lower firewall.. Thanks..
 

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FWIW, I'm running an early 80's Mazda pickup truck booster on my 31 roadster (disc fronts and drum rears) and it provides plenty of stopping power. Your 37 is heavier but I would tend to believe the Courier booster would work fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. I wasn't sure, as to the size is small. Now any idea how these are hooked up?? With the remote filler I can see where it goes into the master cylinder, but I am not so sure how to plumb the bottom??
 

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Here's the plumbing on my Mazda master/booster.



You can see on the top side of the master the two inlets from the remote fill tank. The master itself is a dual cylinder. The single brake line outlet on the rear (closest to booster) goes to the rear axle where it will split to the right and left drum brakes.

The two outlets off the front of the dual master go the front disc brakes. I think this is pretty standard and is probably the same on your Courier.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes. That's it. I also have a valve that came with both boosters. I was told that it was a prop. valve. My question is. While using this booster ou say that there is 2 lines that go to the front brakes. I have to use a 2psi vale in the front, and a 10psi valve in the rear. How can I use the 2psi valve in the front, when I would be running 2 lines. I have a picture of the vale that came with my stuff in my project journal.. Thanks.. Al
 

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You only need those valves in the event you are mounting your master cylinder below the level of your calipers/slave cylinders. If you are mounting the master on the firewall then you shouldn't need them. If you are mounting the master under your floor boards then you WILL need them.

Assuming you are mounting under the floor boards you have two options. YOu can plug one of the master outlets, run one brake line out to the valve and then buy a splitter (like the one on your rear axle) to split the front line into two. The other option is to by a second valve and put one in each line. Probably about a horse apiece in terms of cost.

Dewey
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have a picture of a valve that I got with the masters. I have it in my project journal. It is under APalusky's journal. It has two lines on the top, and two lines on the bottom, with some sort of wire running from the center. Would that work?? Otherwise I will buy a "T" for it. Another thing.. There were no brake calipers on the car when I got it, so I have no idea where to put the brake lines.. The calipers are both new. The hoses are also new. It's just that there is no where to mount the conector. I bought new conectors for it, but were the brake hoses mounted in front of coil spring, or to the back?? Thanks.. Al
 

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The photo in your journal (reproduced here) is the proportioning valve and its purpose is to load the brakes, front and rear, so the fronts grab before the rears. You might be able to use it in your set up but I would recommend that you purchase an aftermarket "adjustable" valve (available at Speedway, Summit, Jegs etc.). This will allow you to dial in the specific set up on your car so that you can prevent the rear brakes from ever locking up before the fronts during a panic stop.

The wire in the photo is the pressure switch for the brake lights. If you do not use this proportioning valve you will need to install a mechanical type switch on the brake pedal or an after market pressure type switch somewhere in the system.

Also, I'm not familiar with the layout of the '37 front end so can't be much help on the brake line routing. Possible another member can jump in and help with that or post a pic of their setup.

 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks. I do have two of the pressure valves, and the adjustable porp. valve. But if you think I need another valve, or maybe from the master to the valve, to a "T" to the front brakes.. The front on the 37 is a Mustang II. The frame is 37. There was never a mounting point for the brake hoses. I am not sure if the hose went in front, or circled around to the back of the frame. The outlet for the hose on the caliper is near the front of the caliper. I am just not sure where on the frame i need to mount the hoses.
 

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BTW, those little tootsie roll shaped valves are called residual pressure valves (RPV) and as noted earlier, are only needed if your master is going to be located lower than the slave cylinders at each wheel. The 2 psi RPV is to be used with disc brakes (like your M-II setup) and the 10 psi valve is for drum brakes, which you have on the rear. If you decide to keep the two separate brake lines running from your master to the front calipers, then you will need 2 - 2psi RPVs, one for each line.

My advice would be to use the adjustable proportioning valve you have rather than the "stocker" pictured above. The stock one is tuned to the old Courier brake system and the setup you have on your '37 is quite different. So the adjustable aftermarket valve is the better choice. In most setups, the proportioning valve is placed in the brake line going to the rear drums.

From what I can see in the picture of your front end I would guess that the best route for the brake lines and hoses would be behind the coils. One really slick way to do this is to buy the "through the frame" brake line fittings. (You can find these at the Speedway web site item # 910-31360 or 31361). This prevents having to weld any ugly tabs onto your frame. They are a little pricey at $25, but they really give a nice clean look when they are installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I did buy all of my parts from Speedway Motors. Insted of weld on tabs. I bought the removable tabs. They are screwed where you want them. I did look at the threw the frame conectors, but where I would be putting them the frame is not boxed. The only ones I saw pictured would have gone threw the 2" boxed section, so alot of conector would be sticking out. I could go down to the bottom of the frame and screw on the tabs, and install them there.
As far as the valves go.. I bought the 2psi, and 10psi valves, the fittings to bring it out to the 3/8" that the fitting is in the 3/16" line. I bought a adjustable Prop. knob style also. I figure. From the master out to the rear. First I go to the 10psi valve. Then to the Prop. valve. Then threw to the T hose that is bolted to the rear axle. For the front. Insted of Mickey mousing around I will buy another 2psi valve. Then I could run the two lines out to the front. Can I turn that "T" that has the two lines comming from it on the master. Can I turn it so that it is facing the frame??, or does it have to face towards the transmission?? Thanks.. Al
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I wasn't sure. There is enough room down there that i could still snake lines along the frame rail. I really didn't want to run it so close to the exhaust at all. In the picture that I posted in my Project Journal of the front of the frame. You can see the mounting plate where the master will be. I just ordered another 2psi valve from Speedway. Now I won't have to worry about putting in another "T" somewhere.. Al
 
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