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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
No doubt there are remedies for wind noise in quarter vents so i am open to any suggestions.
So far i have renewed all window seals when i had the car stripped to bits. I had the quarter frames rechromed and i rebuilt them with all new weather seals. The door frame perimeter seals and corresponding body seals are new. The doors have new hinge pins and fit really well . The quarter vents have new handles fitted as well to pull the glass tightly into the seals. The drivers side is the only side that is a problem although both sides appear identical in the way the quarter glass fits the seals and door to body seals. :evil:
Al.
 

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wind noise

Wind noise occured various times during the manufacturing run. .the problem is trying to find exactley what is causing it.. I wrote a few problem reports and the fixes varied from using a piece of "Dum Dum" sealer (similar to kids molding clay) under the weatherstrip or in and intersection corner, etc, to inserting a piece of foam rope inside the tubular weather strips. Have you used a stethescope to try to find where it is coming from. there were a few cars built using a blank vin tag pop riveted to the body before weatherstrip was installed to hold the W/strip from puckering or act as an air diversion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Wind noise.

Thanks for your reply. So you were there during the production run. Iwould like to see your reports.They would make interesting reading.I had nt thought of the stethoscope so that is worth a try. There was no blank vin tag from memory holding any seals in place so i can eliminate that i think. The foam rope in the door seal is worth a try if i can pin in down to that spot. My hearing is less than average which makes it more of a challenge to pin it down. I think the noise is coming from A, B or C.?? I used dynamat to quieten the interior right down as the 347 is not the quietest power plant to have. It worked well as the only noise is the whistling wind.
Your corner fix with kids clay could be the go too so i will try all your suggestions.
Thanks for your help here.
Al.
 

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A common way of finding the wind noise is by duct taping the various suspected areas one piece at a time and a test drive. When you quit hearing the noise, you've found the spot where the air is leaking.
 

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Al - I don't recall which Ford it was, but I had to replace flip locks on the vent windows to stop the wind noise. Yeah, I know, those parts are made out of non-obtanium in your part of the world, but I would guess that the next time you have to place an order with your favorite Mustang parts supplier they would be more then happy to take your AU dollars.

Dave W
 

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foam rope

I don't rememaber which years used the tubular weatherstrips. the foam rope was about 1/4 in dia. the procedure was to insert about a 6 in piece into a modified blow nozzel , the nozzel had a 8 in piece of steel tube brazed to the end, the weather strips has small air bleed holes along its length . insert the nozzel into a bleed hole , pinch where you wanted the foam to stop , then blow it into place. Alot of the fixes lasted until the supplier revised the parts. I asked If I could have all the mustang documemtation in my office to take home and keep. I said the Mustangs were going to be like Model A Fords, restored and kept running forever. Ford said No way Confidentual information. They fired and engineer that sold a document package to japanese manufactures. In the 60's a lot of Japaneese engineers toured the US manufacturiing companies. They were amazed at the Auto feed screw guns used to fasten the rear valance panel to the body.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Wind noise

Thanks Tim , Dave and dinger.
The replacement door weather strip i fitted is an oval section without air breather holes so maybe the strip i have is an updated version of the vented tubular type. I will try dingers idea too with the masking tape removal. Putty in the intersecting corners seems like a likely spot as well.
You were spot on with your comment Tim about Mustangs being like T models.I have managed to buy every nut and bolt from Must. Country, Cal. If you had that documentation now you would be King Tim and most likely not sell it overseas. You would have books published. The Mustang i have may have passed by you in the factory at Dearborn in June of "67 (marti report) ??????
The local auto Bearing Factory here where i put in 9yrs ,shared product info with the Cleveland Graphite Bronze Co.back in the 70's to make their range of cams, rods, mains etc.
Cheers from downunda.
Al.
 

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sunny Calif

I worked in sunmy Calif in the San Jose Assembly plant, Vin code R , from the old Richmond Calif factory. I usually spent 2 to 3 weeks in Dearborn reviewing the new models for assembly feasabiliyty and they had a spot on the blue prints for my signiture.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
timothale said:
I worked in sunmy Calif in the San Jose Assembly plant, Vin code R , from the old Richmond Calif factory. I usually spent 2 to 3 weeks in Dearborn reviewing the new models for assembly feasabiliyty and they had a spot on the blue prints for my signiture.
You must have interesting photo albums and memorabilia of the period Tim. The vin i have is 7FO1C....... so that would predate your time at Richmond and Dearborn. If you have any pics of the plant back then you want to put out there i would be happy to have a look
Cheers
Al.
 

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I've forgot more than I ever knew

I starated in 64, yours is a 67 , built in dearborn, 289 2 barrel, I used to have all the interior trim,glass, electral part numbers memorized and knew most of the engineering change details. Four 2 inch thick notebooks of information, . the other engineers would come into my office and I could tell them the part number, document number and latest change. I was a rebel, when Ford hired me they said we could get a special deal on new cars, I went to see the guy that handled employee sales to order My 65 mustang and they said Mustangs were not on the list of cars with the discount , but they had a deal on 6 cyl falcons. So I put together a Buick mailhead powered Willys, Ford 9 in, Ford Wagon front brakes and drove it. I got a lot of static, but found pictures in the stock holders annual report of Willys Wagons ford of brazil was doing in partnership, using obsolete tooling removed from US factories.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
dam whistle

sounds like Tim may have had something to do with the changes leading up to 69 by changing the section shape/strength of the body to door seals from oval to round which maybe gives more crush when the door closes. I have not won yet with the whistling 67 but still trying. could be a while
Al
 

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Get some one to drive the car and take a length of heater hose sticking one end in your ear and moving the open end along the glass area until you locate the whistling point.Then take some children's clay Kif you can still buy it) and build up the area behind the window seal. keep doing this procedure until all is quiet.then go back and replace the clay with a more permanent material. I use to work at a Ford dealership in So. Cal. fixing the leaks that Tim missed!

Tim do you remember the spot weld on the rear roof seam under the stainless steel trim molding on the big Country Squire Wagon ( beautiful car) that would leak water and you could hear it rushing along both sides of the headliner? That one was fun to find!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
pool of knowledge

Thanks for your reply boothboy. Between you and Tim with the amount of experience you have dealing with production line "upgrades" i most certainly will have to fix this problem. Getting someone else to drive the car is a problem as they are too scared to drive a left hand drive car. :) which leaves me.
I will try some blu tak and pack out the window weather strip . I am trying to see any differences between the LHS and RHS window seals/fit but to look at they are identical. Two vent windows , one whistle. May have to tie some heater hose to my left ear and go for a drive.
Al.
 

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Not Me

We built mustangs, then Fairlane mixed in then pinto and mustang II , and I had pickups for a while. Never any big cars after falcolns I wrote so many problem reports on one designer he almost got fired, Ford still uses the truck jack handle hold down bolt I designed in 1979 , dog point , included washer and wing top that could be tightened on the assembly line with and air tool. Sometimes we just ignored the designers and did thing our own way. The Mustang tailight wiring harness 14405 was folded up and shipped to us, when installed in a mustang it would catch on the Qtr window and short out, We installed a truck clip to hold it in place but the bean counters said we were spending 3 cents more that was not authorized, They spent a hundred thousand in dealer repairs before they said we were right.
 

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timothale said:
We built mustangs, then Fairlane mixed in then pinto and mustang II , and I had pickups for a while. Never any big cars after falcolns I wrote so many problem reports on one designer he almost got fired, Ford still uses the truck jack handle hold down bolt I designed in 1979 , dog point , included washer and wing top that could be tightened on the assembly line with and air tool. Sometimes we just ignored the designers and did thing our own way. The Mustang tailight wiring harness 14405 was folded up and shipped to us, when installed in a mustang it would catch on the Qtr window and short out, We installed a truck clip to hold it in place but the bean counters said we were spending 3 cents more that was not authorized, They spent a hundred thousand in dealer repairs before they said we were right.
Yeah I remember. The full size cars were built in Pico Revera ( Los Angeles ).
Truthfully the early Mustangs came through pretty darn good. You did a good job. I think I still have a couple of those rear hold down shipping plates someplace. I know I still have a drawer full of tire caps. Take offs after you installed the wheel covers. Wheel covers , kick panels and front carpets came in the trunks. Radio antennas also if the car came with a radio.

Al try the trick with the heater hose. It really works well.
 

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R vin mustangs

Most of the time we build the mustangs at san jose we were 18 to 20 % below the buget cost and had the lowest dealer charge back, XR 7 cougars were a nightmare to build. Qc did not enforce the paint thickness spec on cars with vinyl tops, and the production manager had the crew do too much grinding on the 2 dr hardtops quarter roof joints. I have never heard of anyone having one of the show car specials they were eventuall sold to a retail customer. . the entire body had a class one metal finish and they were displayed with the doors open so all the visible body seams were leaded over and as smooth as the exterior. One scam Ford did was allow the district sales staff to pull a new car off the assembly line , disconnect the spedo and set up a dummy spedo on the floor and drive them for 3 or 4 thousand miles, change the oil and filter , then reconnect the spedo showing 3 miles and send the car to the dealer.
 

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Yep that's how we got them. Three miles and three gal. of gas. We use to do the same thing with the salesman's demo's. I re-set a lot of odometers back then. But on the other hand i re-set a number of odometer forward on used Mustangs so the could run them as leaders and no one would want them . They sold right off anyway. Those were the days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The fix for 67 wind whistle........

Hi Tim and boothboy.
Well my daughter sat in the back seat while i drove at about 70kph ( whistling speed) With the funnel and hose she was able to pinpoint the wind noise to the front lower intersection between the quarter vent frame and body seal. I put some tape in the door at the top of the vent frame and shut the door on it to see how much bite there was . Plenty at the top but none at the bottom as in the pics.
When the door closes on the seal it just pushes the seal further in without any crush. By putting a piece of 1/4 inch rubber tube used for windscreen squirters in behind the seal it fixed the problem. No more whislte. I will glue it on the back now with some instant loctite . Problem solved. :thumbup:
I can see if the seal had been made out of round section, rather than the oval section there would be positive crush between the door and body seal.
I guess that s why you have the Tims of the production line world to sign off on improvements on the next model. :)
Thanks for your input to solve this annoying problem.
Al
 

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