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hallamwillis said:
Just wondering how to wire up a kill switch on a 64 Galaxie

Doc here, :pimp:

Simple, Just cut the wire from the ignition switch to the + side of the coil, and install your switch in series with the wire.

Doc :pimp:
 

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I just went back from the dist. inside the wiring loom and cut the wire that p powers the dist. In your case it would be the one that powers the coil as I have an HEI dist.. Then I ran 2 wires into the car hooked to the switch. Solder the ends of the 2 wires to each end of the one you cut. Put everything back inside the wiring harness and it looks like it was never touched. The interesting thing about it is when the switch is thrown and you try to start the car it sounds like its trying to fire but then dies. There is only 1 wire going to the dist so I know its not getting voltage from soomewhere else. It makes you think that there is no kill switch on it but maybe the manual choke isnt set right to start. I have a mech. fuel pump so I couldnt put a switch there but would have if I had an electric one. I really hardly ever leave the sight of the car and always carry a 45 automatic on my side for extra insurance.
 

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wiring a kill and a start

i had a 78 chevey scotes dale truck luved it to death i had 3 switches 1 was power the key switch was also power some thimes started whin it wanted and the 3rd u started the truck then let off of the switch to kill the starter the 2nd switch you had to have on to start the truck flip the switch it would kill the truck just like the key would do i would like to do this to a 70 cheve luv any ideas :confused:
 

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Doc here, :pimp:

Another way to do it, is get a Standard 1/4 Audio Phone jack and plug, and a relay, Cut the + side of the Ignition coil wire, and install the relay so the normally open contact goes to the ignition side of the coil power wire, and the center-wiper goes to the Coil.

The Relay coil will wire , one side to hard ground, and the the other to the TIP of the phone plug. The Ring of the phone plug will go to Switched, Fused (1 amp or better) Power. You must use an INSULATED PHONE JACK for this..
Mount the Phone jack at or near the CD Player, So it looks like ANY non~Decrepit Headphone jack..

Next take your Phone PLUG..and solder the ring and tip together.

The Kill will work like this, When the Phone plug is NOT plugged into the Phone jack, and anyone trys to start the car, it will not fire..no coil power BECAUSE the relay is not energized..

When it is plugged in, and the key is used, it WILL fire because the relay is energized , providing power to the coil.

You can, when parked, just pull the phone plug and take it with you, and it won't start for anybody else..the nice part is any thief will not think twice about a headphone jack next to a CD player..and not bother with it.

Doc :pimp:
 

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eugeneragsdale said:
i had a 78 chevey scotes dale truck luved it to death i had 3 switches 1 was power the key switch was also power some thimes started whin it wanted and the 3rd u started the truck then let off of the switch to kill the starter the 2nd switch you had to have on to start the truck flip the switch it would kill the truck just like the key would do i would like to do this to a 70 cheve luv any ideas :confused:
WHAT DID HE SAY?!?!?!
 

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All our company trucks had kill switches mounted up under the dash or in the locakble gloveboxes. We installed these conventional lever switches in the wire to the solenoid so that when they were off the starter could not be engaged.
Had thieves try to steal several times but couldn't get 'em started. Only time ever a successful theft was when an employee did not flip the switch. He was just running in someplace for a minute. Bing, that's all it took. We did get the truck back not damaged too badly, but never lost another.
 

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I always use the other approach. I used to put a switch with one side to ground and the other to the neg side of the coil. When closed it would take the points out of the circuit. The bennifit to this is that the coil cant be hotwired. With the cutting the hotwire method, a simple aligator clip on a hot side wire will allow the vehicle to start. The other thing if if the switch goes bad you can still start the car with the grounding method. if you use the cut the hot method and the switch dies, you are walking
 

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pasadenahotrod said:
Had thieves try to steal several times but couldn't get 'em started. Only time ever a successful theft was when an employee did not flip the switch. He was just running in someplace for a minute. Bing, that's all it took. We did get the truck back not damaged too badly, but never lost another.
Doc here, :pimp:

That approach works as well, but Thieves around here go for the glove-box right off! (looking for CD's , Blackberries, Guns..) I guess anything man CAN Do..Another Man can un~do...

Plus, if they get the Ignition Buss hot (a Simple jumper from any fuse on the "Hot at all times" on the fuse buss to any fuse on the Ignition fuse buss, try it, you'll be surprised, the car will come alive!...Shhhhh..I didn't tell you that! :D ) and defeat any locks that may exist, a savvy thief, who wants the car bad enough, will just jump the "B" to "S" terminal on the starter Solenoid and be off with the car..

The same applies to Coil wire Defeats too..If the Crook is savvy enough..Plus now~a~Days, If they REALLY want your car bad enough, They will just pull up to your garage with a Tow Truck at "0"~Dark-Thirty, and it's History..before you can pull your pants on, and "Rack " a round in the Remington..

In the "Olde" days..when I grew up, it was pretty simple..just "Pop" the cap and take the rotor with you, Today it may take you an hour just to get the plastic off to get to the Dizzy.. :smash: :mad:

Most, However, if they just want a joy ride, or a Crime-mobile, will just move on if they can't get it rolling within a few seconds..It's the Thief that wants to "Part" your car out or export it that is hard to stop..He has everything from a Computer laptop to defeat the VATS and other systems, to a Tow Truck waiting in the wings..That guy won't be stopped..

I have Lo~Jack on the Vettes..That assures me I get back a burned out hulk, If It isn't detected within a few minutes of going missing..(Had one stolen in Oakland,(Homicide Capitol) from a Service area parking lot, got back a Bare Body a week later, They even took the Wire Harness, Glass, headliner and carpets..)

The Best way to stop them, is never let down your guard when you leave the Vehicle.

Doc :pimp:
 

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T-bucket23 said:
I always use the other approach. I used to put a switch with one side to ground and the other to the neg side of the coil. When closed it would take the points out of the circuit. The bennifit to this is that the coil cant be hotwired. With the cutting the hotwire method, a simple aligator clip on a hot side wire will allow the vehicle to start. The other thing if if the switch goes bad you can still start the car with the grounding method. if you use the cut the hot method and the switch dies, you are walking
Doc here, :pimp:

I tried that once years ago..It was effective..but..

I used to get "Bit" on the high tension spark jumping through the open switch, (in the run position, and running) If I got my hand near it..that was back when switchgear wasn't too stellar..then..

Volvo had a neat trick many years ago..the Ignition wire was run from the switch in a flexible metal conduit, to the coil..(you couldn't hack into it..) and the switch was multiplexed when off, was grounded to all the engine wires (so if you went to the coil with a hot-wire, it would short and burn up!) That worked pretty well if you didn't expect it!

The Key is: Keep an eye on your Vehicle if you want to keep it!

Doc :pimp:
 

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what I have presently is an ignition key to on and when you remover the cigarette lighter there is a small mini momentary switch wired to a relay that will fire the starter. start it and put he lighter back in the opening, Oh I also silver soldiered the spring portion of the lighter so you can not push the lighter and operated the starter by accident. Ed ke6bnl
 

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how about the simpilest kill switch you can think of. the cigarette lighter, run the wire to the pos side of the coil, rather than to power, when you need to shut down, pop the lighter in and the system will ground out, engine will die.
 

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matt167 said:
how about the simpilest kill switch you can think of. the cigarette lighter, run the wire to the pos side of the coil, rather than to power, when you need to shut down, pop the lighter in and the system will ground out, engine will die.

Doc here, :pimp:

:confused: :confused: :confused: ??????

How does that work???? :confused: :confused: :confused:

The positive side of the coil IS Power...And the positive side of the lighter has no relationship to the body ground side of the lighter except when run through a resistive heating element of the lighter..

If you ran 12 volts through it to ground the lighter would work fine the coil would not..and if it had a path to ground through the lighter, the coil power wire would just burn up..To do something like that you'd need a lighter ISOLATED off body ground, and has both power and ground wires running from it..

Doc :pimp:
 

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docvette said:
Doc here, :pimp:

:confused: :confused: :confused: ??????

How does that work???? :confused: :confused: :confused:

The positive side of the coil IS Power...And the positive side of the lighter has no relationship to the body ground side of the lighter except when run through a resistive heating element of the lighter..

If you ran 12 volts through it to ground the lighter would work fine the coil would not..and if it had a path to ground through the lighter, the coil power wire would just burn up..To do something like that you'd need a lighter ISOLATED off body ground, and has both power and ground wires running from it..

Doc :pimp:
Doc, it creates a short to ground, that's how it works. the lighter element, is what works as the switch because it connects power to ground. I know people who have done this. but could even run it from the - side of the coil, because it would just ground out all the time, rather than pulse ( and create voltage ), just saturate, and the motor would die that way also.


this method is normally used as anti theft, and not as a kill switch, but it works anyway.
 

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matt167 said:
Doc, it creates a short to ground, that's how it works. the lighter element, is what works as the switch because it connects power to ground. I know people who have done this. but could even run it from the - side of the coil, because it would just ground out all the time, rather than pulse ( and create voltage ), just saturate, and the motor would die that way also.


this method is normally used as anti theft, and not as a kill switch, but it works anyway.

Doc here, :pimp:

IF you ran it from the power side of the coil..(the + side) The only thing that would change when you pushed the lighter IN is the element would heat..and nothing else..If when it was "Out" or heated up and popped out..nothing has changed..It's like putting a light bulb on your ignition coil power wire..It won't stop the coil from functioning..

IF you put it on the Minus side (-) of the coil, I doubt it would have any effect on the coil at all, except maybe burn up the element with the 400 + volts from the duty cycle of the coil from it's trigger source generated there.

And if you took the lighter out as anti theft, would have no effect at all because it's parallel wired..so the coil will still operate just fine.

Doc :pimp:
 
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