[RayCharles]

okay, having Wide open throttle problems, car tends to die after I let it down fast and it smells like gasoline. So I figure the carb is dumping too much fuel into the motor at WOT. How in the heck do I lean it out a bit at the top end. i know the screw things on the front of my carb are for the idle, or as someone told me. Where can I adjust the fuel/air mixture for WOT?

 

[nitro_baller4692]

metering rods and springs,they sell a kit.

 

[RayCharles]

metering rods and springs? Okay, I'll look into it thanks.

 

[techinspector1]

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/eps_intro.html

 

[RayCharles]

is there maybe another reason the engine might be dieing right after I say burnout at in a parking lot and then don't follow it up with throttle. So Stomping, holding for a few secs and dropping it flat, and pow engine dies. Same thing when spinning cookies. Smells horribly of fuel, like no one light a cigarette please, that kind of fuel amount wafting in the air. Any ideas on what it could be besides the carb?

 

[nitro_baller4692]

whats the ignition timing set at?

 

[killerformula]

metering rods and springs,they sell a kit.

BTW, this is not a challenge, just an honest question as I haven't torn into an edelbrock in a while:

The metering rods and springs are only on the primary circuit, and at WOT there's 0 vacuum so no matter what springs he has the rods are going to be pulled all the way up. Also, I can't specifically remember how far the rods get pulled out of the jets at WOT, but I believe at that point the difference in rods is relatively minute. What I mean is, I think the rod has a very minimal effect of blocking fuel going into the jet when it is at full-out position. Perhaps a smaller set of primary jets/rods would be the ticket? I always thought the springs and rods were more about transition.

I know some of the newer edelbrocks have tunable secondaries, but I think you can at least change the size of the jets in the older ones. To be honest, I've never had to do it, but I imagine if its an available adjustment its got to be easier than messing with the primary circuits (even thought that's pretty easy to with a 'brock).

Food for thought, anyway. Correct me if I'm wrong-

K

 

[powerrodsmike]

Any ideas on what it could be besides the carb?

Erratic operation of the accelerator pedal.

Later, mikey

 

[brian0605]

okay, having Wide open throttle problems, car tends to die after I let it down fast and it smells like gasoline. So I figure the carb is dumping too much fuel into the motor at WOT. How in the heck do I lean it out a bit at the top end. i know the screw things on the front of my carb are for the idle, or as someone told me. Where can I adjust the fuel/air mixture for WOT?

Is the choke closing? possibly?? our edelbrock was doing that and it acted similarly to what you are describing. ain: Good luck if I think of any thing else. I'll try to post it. And as for the adjustments on the front I like to start with them 1 1/2 truns from bottomed out, then while at operating temp and timing set, slowly begin to turn one of them in until you can here a change in the engine then start turning it back out till you here a change in the engine, in the middle of where you heard the changes is where you should turn it back to. Then do the same thing for the other one.I hope that made sense Brian

 

[xntrik]

One thing that you might also try is

hook your vacuum advance can to direct manifold vacuum, rather than ported vacuum. This will probably give you more timing at idle, so set the idle rpm down for a test run.

That way when you get off the gas suddenly, instead of your timing dropping to idle static (say 14*), the vacuum can will kick it up (maybe another 20*) to maybe 34 total and keep it from stalling.

The test just takes a couple minutes and is easily reversable if it doesn't help.

BTDT.

 

[xntrik]

Also there is a thing called a "dash pot" that can be installed on your throttle linkage that slows the rate of throttle closure in the 1600 to idle range. 60s cars had them for just the reason you are dealing with. (NOT idle solenoids of the 70s used to prevent dieseling) Older cars also used straight manifold vacuum to the distributor, too.

Old timers (young rodders back then) used to eliminate the pots because they prevented the instant complete throttle closure that adds to the "racking-off of the pipes" sound.

Modern fuelie cars have an "idle let down" phase that prevents "racking" to reduce smog emissions. Wish I could remove it from my fuelie rods.

 

[docvette]

is there maybe another reason the engine might be dieing right after I say burnout at in a parking lot and then don't follow it up with throttle. So Stomping, holding for a few secs and dropping it flat, and pow engine dies. Same thing when spinning cookies. Smells horribly of fuel, like no one light a cigarette please, that kind of fuel amount wafting in the air. Any ideas on what it could be besides the carb?

Doc here, imp:

If this is happening right after the above situations, but runs fairly well otherwise..you might want to check the float level..It may be too high, and flooding out when "forced" into a different position by gravity or "G" force..

Perhaps adjusting it a tiny bit might solve the problem.

Doc imp:

 

[RayCharles]

my timing is set to 10 degrees, I removed the vacuum advance line to do it. I think that's how it's supposed to be done.
The thing about the rods not having anything to do with WOT, that makes sense.
I'll look into the choke sticking issue, I hadn't even thought of that.
I watched the video on edelbrock's website on how to adjust the floats, and I am going to check those too.
Thanks for all the good ideas.

 

[docvette]

Doc here, imp:

10 degrees MAY be a bit shallow for an SBC..you might want to try 12 and see if it likes it better..

Doc imp: