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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Getting ready for bodywork and paint on my '54 Customline. I'm wanting to strip most, if not all of the original paint. Don't want to use liquid paint stripper. I have this Makita 7" variable speed sander/polisher that I've had for 20 years and have only used twice. Couldn't I use 7" self adhesive sanding discs on this thing to remove the paint? And if so, 80 or 36 grit?


Back in the '70s when I worked in body shops I remember using some kind of angle grinder/sander with sanding discs to remove paint. Granted, technology has advanced in the last 40 years but this should work.....right?

The beast in question............

 

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True Hotrodder
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The current paint looks to be rather decent. I would use the grinder to fix whatever areas need body work but for the rest of it I would be using a DA.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The paint is checked/cracked/peeling/flaking....it needs to come off. I've already metal repaired many rotted sections. I'll be using All-Metal filler to go over those then I plan to lay a skim coat of Rage over the entire car to take care of tiny dings/waves/etc. Hoping the 7" Makita will take it all down to bare metal quickly.



 

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True Hotrodder
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The issue with grinding is two-fold - one is all the grinding marks you have to deal with and second is the heat the grinding generates. Handled wrong and you'll have some panels waving at you. The DA will take the paint off but it'll be safer and less overall work and filler.
 

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The Penny Pincher
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Instead of a skim coat of Rage, consider a poly primer.
It's like spraying body filler, it will be much more consistent and easier applying.
 

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Instead of a skim coat of Rage, consider a poly primer.
It's like spraying body filler, it will be much more consistent and easier applying.
Yes Slicksand is great stuff. You can sand with 80 all the way up to 600 and paint over it.

But I like to sand the slicksand with 80 then 180, 220 and prime with regular 2 part primer filler. Then 400/600 then spray the paint.
 

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The issue with grinding is two-fold - one is all the grinding marks you have to deal with and second is the heat the grinding generates. Handled wrong and you'll have some panels waving at you. The DA will take the paint off but it'll be safer and less overall work and filler.
X2. If you do use the 7 inch, make sure to get the soft backing pad that takes the stick on round paper.

You will have to be SUPER CAREFUL about generating heat. The middle of the hood, and the middle of the roof can be ruined very quickly. One good rule of thumb is to always keep moving, apply light pressure, and dont go full boogie with the RPMs. On the sides, and around structure you can get down a little harder, but be careful in the middle of big panels. You can ruin that hood very quickly.

I would even start with some 40 and see how it goes. The thing about the soft backer, and the sticky round sheets, is they are designed to sand filler and the dont leave deep grinder scratches like a disc with the hole in the center.

Pics of paper.
615702
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