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I may just take the bullet and sell my Mustang :(

2.7K views 15 replies 11 participants last post by  Siggy_Freud  
#1 ·
Ok, I bought a 1967 Ford Mustang with a little 289ci and it's got a great motor and tranny now, but, the problem now is my front suspension.

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Ok, I've re-welded it 3 times and it keeps breaking, any ideas? I don't think this is safe at all and if I can't get it to stay, I'm going to re-weld it to hold long enough to sell it.
 
#4 ·
Suggestions? Yeah, learn how to weld, lol. Nahh, isn't that just a K-member (or the equivalent thereto)? Cant you just pull the motor and replace it? I doubt its a very expensive piece, you could probably even get a semi-universal re-pop and drill the holes you need. I wouldn't waste time welding something like that, you want all the integrity you can get.

K
 
#5 ·
You're probably going to have to replace the lower rad x-member and the strut rod mount ( if that's bad). From the looks of it, you're welding just the fron lip and a fe spots. Those things are welded up in the middle areas that contact the x-member. This provides a stronger welding base.
This can be fixed with some time and new parts. Both of those parts are reproduced. Check any good Mustang parts supplier. I use NPD or CJ Pony Parts.
www.vintage-mustang.com
 
#6 ·
NXS said:
don't sell it to somebody and not tell them!!!! :nono:
That's not what I meant, lol. Thanks for the site man, I'll check it out real quick... I hope I can fix this car because I love the car itself, but I have a new job now and i need to get there and back. I haven't just welded it to the front of the car, I moved it and re-welded it under the radiator, where you're talking about pretty much and used the same exact measurements as the left one. It still breaks off, front and back, I don't know what to do because the car pulls to the right so hard, even when it's welded back on that I think it's the x-member itself needs to be replaced along with the strut rod mount, but oh well.
 
#7 ·
Not to be a jerk, but I think this is pretty typical. Somebody has a few bucks in his pocket, finds an "old car" that needs "some work" and doesn't really stop to think that perhaps a car that cost a few more dollars at the get-go wouldn't need 12,000 dollars of parts and work. Take a 4,000 car, for example. You should be able to get a decent car with a driver paintjob that needs some odds and ends to the tune of a summer's work and a couple three grand worth of stuff. Boom, you've got 3 months and 6-7k in to a nice looking car. Whereas when you buy a car for a few hundred to 1500 bux, you can pretty much expect to have to go through the whole thing.

So here we are, you've got two cars in your yard that need an unknown amount of work, and now we know for a fact that one of them has serious structural issues. Don't kid yourself, a little patch-work welding and a ball-joint here or there is not what these cars need. You're talking about cars that are almost 40 years old. 40. Most houses need serious work after that long, let alone something that sits outside and gets moved all the time! Both of your cars need a frame-off and the one definitely needs to see a frame shop. I'm willing to bet if the huge x-member rusted through, you've got some frame issues (check the rear of the car where the frame meets the rear axle, betcha there's issues there). A little welding isn't going to make this car safe to drive, and its not fair to you, let alone the people on the road with you to have a car rolling around that hasn't had proper work done to it and been checked in a proper, thorough fashion. Now is the time to decide if you're in over your head and unload these cars.

K
 
#8 ·
Thanks Killer, I think I'm WAY in over my head... I'm only 16 and don't have alot of money, I'm definately not ready for a frame-off restoration in the aspects of money or experience. I think I'm just going to sell the car, someone offered me $2,500 as it is right now without trying to fix the front suspension and that's extremely enticing to me as I paid $1,300 for it and about $300 in engine parts. Thanks for you help guys!
 
#11 ·
dude...

You didn't try to weld on that rusted over gunky crap did you? I would sell both cars the camaro and the stang and buy something that isn't falling apart... OR go on ebay find a good rust free car on the west coast and use the money you made to ship it to wherever you live. Enless you live westcoast, in which case why you buy a rustbucket?
 
#13 ·
You could alway remove the shock towers and put in a Mustang II suspension. You would also have alot more room under your hood for any engine bigger than a SB Ford. This can be expensive, but if you are not in a rush you could accomplish this in a few years.
 
#16 ·
willowbilly3 said:
If it isn't a fastback take the $2500 and run. If it is a fastback it's worth putting some effort into. Kudos for the effort kid but your welding looks like poop. A proficient welder could fix that right up. You can't just keep pileing weld upon weld, it has to be prepped.
I agree with both the comment about the fastback, and the welding.

If your not grinding it down to fresh metal first then its never going to hold. A proper weld should leave it as strong, if not stronger than before. Just need practice. You need the proper heat and speed setting for that type/thickness of metal. I dont know your experience level with a welder but I think you should at least have someone with more welding time give you a few pointers. I've only known how to weld for a year or two and I still have so much to learn. Nothing can replace experience.