I'll address this by item, mostly in order

With the wider band the drum MUST be flat. A straight edge across it will show how flat it is. This drum often cups.

Steel pistons remove the cracked aluminum piston problem. With these molded pistons use the TRansGo # 7-CS spring kit per thier instructions.

The Sonnax boost valves work well.

Alto 9 pack frictions work well. Set clearance at .040 or less. The one piece "60E" tranny 3/4 pressure plate can be machined down about .040 to gain claerance in the drum if needed. I only machine down the friction area, so the thickness at the edge remains the same strength

The forward sprag, use one with dual guide rings. i've seen too many of the single ring sprag with problems, wear or flipped. Polish the inner race with 400 grit wet paper(solvent) and use 320 grit on the outter race surface.

Drain back holes in the 1993 pump are fine, BUT drill the matching hole in the stator support with your 5/16 bit.

Stiffer spring in the 1-2 accumilator is fine, no need to flip the piston on it. I've seen some companys that plug off this acc.... bad news.

Plug the feed hole of the 3-4 acc with a 1/4" inch check ball. Flip the piston and spring if you like.

I leave the converter check ball IN the input shaft. That is just the way i do it. Clamp the input shaft with drum in a vise(soft jaws) and check for loose splines in the drum from twist. IF the drum twists, replace it!

Stiffer pump slide springs or new OEM units are fine for higher RPM use.

I use JB weld KWIK epoxy on the bleed hole on the INSIDE of the aluminum drum under the 3/4 piston to plug this hole.

We have seen amazing things with cryogenic treated parts.

Block the line bias valve in place.

I would recomend the "Beast " drive shell.

I did alot of searching on the site and seen alot of replys from very experienced transmission experts, so I thought I would ask a couple questions about a build Im doing. Im curious aboput valve body modifications. I heard that some will block the line bias valve to improve 2-3shift above 1/2 throttle, is this a good practice?? What else could be recommended for valve body mods?? My build includes the following...


Raybestos wider 2-4 band
3/4, overrunning, and forward steel pistons in input drum
.570 BV and larger reverse/low valve
Soonax larger 2 and 4 servo
3/4 clutch release springs deleted and #44 spacerplate enlarged
29 element BW sprag
alto racing clutches, 9 stack in 3/4 pack
drainback holes in pump enlarged to 5/16"
stiffer 1-2 accumulator spring
flipped 1-2 and 3-4 accumulator piston and spring
torque converter apply check ball(input shaft) removed
pressure regulator valve 2nd land grinded 2 flat spots
stiffer pump slide spring
welded 3/4 bleed hole in input drum
cryrogenically treated all hard parts

This out of a 1991 Syclone with AWD, these trannies really take a beating because of no wheel slip, so advice on the build would be great, constructive critisim only please. Thanks

 

I appreciate you taking the time to go through the list. One thing I was concerned about was the custom .570" boost valve. Thats gonna bring line pressure up considerably. I wanted to go with the Torque Drive Package which came with a hardened input shaft and renforced drum(where shaft splines to drum) and reaction shell. The problem is you have to use their custom machined overrunning piston, which is aluminum. Should I buy that package and just use the steel 3/4 and forward piston, then use their overrun aluminum piston??? OR Should I check input shaft/drum and if all is tight send it to be cryro'd then use all 3 steel pistons with bonded seals?? How common are cracked aluminum pistons in the input drum with larger BV's?? To plug the 3/4 acc feed with the check ball I guess that totally eliminates the accumulator, correct.

 

Torque drive does some neat stuff with the 700 parts.

The problem I have seen with their modified drive shell is the area where the factory balances the shell.

On Torque drive's main page they show a photo of the modified shell. There are 2 little round holes punched in the shell for balancing.

This is where the shell will now split apart. I have seen this and I have photos of one that had pulled apart . It takes some traction and torque to pull this shell apart like this.

this link should show the photo;

http://www.highperformancecars.com/crosley/hdshell2.jpg


Do NOT take this post as a slam to Torque Drive products. I am only pointing out things I have seen with my own eyes.

 

Blocking your bias and using a .570 bv is going to give you some very hi pressures. What's this trans being used for? You may be reaching a level of overkill. Most info posted here is good, should make a strong unit. One thing that is often over looked and very important is your bushings. They act as lube seals as well as control proper parts alignment. Replace them. Let me know how it turns out. Thanks.

P.S. In 1993 GM went to the 4L60-E across it's entire line,, and to the best of my knowledge discontinued the 700-R4 aka 4L60. Similar, but not the same.

 

P.S. In 1993 GM went to the 4L60-E across it's entire line,, and to the best of my knowledge discontinued the 700-R4 aka 4L60. Similar, but not the same.

========== not in the USA. Trucks went to the 4L60E.

Vettes and F bodies used the 700 still. 1993 was the cross over year for the chnage here. There was a 700 with a 5 pin round case connector.

With the .570 boost valve I see 280- 300 psi on the tranny dyno. With the right parts the pump duarbility in not an isssue

 

Tranny is off a 1991 GMC Syclone. It has a GM Reman tranny in it from a 1993. Its definitly a 4l60 non electronic. I will definitly be replacing all bushings, I know its not something that is always done but cheap insurance for me to make sure everythings aligned perfect. Thanks Fern

 

As I sit here a brain fart clears away.

the turbo'd Syclone trannys used a stiffer line bias valve spring.

You may wish to add the large boost valve and leave the line bias assembly as it is.

Tranny is off a 1991 GMC Syclone. It has a GM Reman tranny in it from a 1993. Its definitly a 4l60 non electronic. I will definitly be replacing all bushings, I know its not something that is always done but cheap insurance for me to make sure everythings aligned perfect. Thanks Fern

 

========== not in the USA. Trucks went to the 4L60E.

My mistake, of course that is correct. I thought we were talking trucks, I wasn't very clear.

 

Thanks guys, have a good new years. Fern

 

1993 700R4

Hi Syclone. Why were the 3/4 release springs left out. I had a hole paragraph typed then lost it . No time left tonight.

 

Paul, its an update in the ASTG manual. Has to do with the release spings causing bindup in the 3/4 clucth if I remember right.

 

3/4 re;ease springs on 700R4

The purpose of the springs was to release the 3/4 clutch during a 4/2 maneuver , eliminating them causes a slow release which can wear the 3/4 clutches . This is from a GM point of view. I have never left them out and our local trans parts supplier now recommends to leave them in. Also the steel molded pistons were designed to be cheaper not stronger (possible extra bonus).Less labour intensive .

 

Paul, why the hell would they publish something like that in the ASTG manual, was this found out afterwards I guess?? And those steel pistons with bonded seal came out to like $50CND a piece and thats with our shop discount. So you would suggest to keep the 3/4 release spings installed?? Theres a good possibility they were already discarded in a previous build, would I just order the 7-8 spings(forget how many there are now) and thats all that should be needed right?? Thanks

By the Way HAPPY NEW YEARS GUYS!!

 

700R4 Steel pistons.

I'll try Monday and get the cost of a 4T40/45E forward piston on Monday.since we purchase 4,000 a day here in Windsor. The cost reflex the machined aluminum piston and both lip seals verses a stamped steel piston with molded seals. Plus labour to install the lip seals. The last 700R4 I had with the 3/4 springs removed I ordered them from the Local Pontiac Buick Dealer. $18 I think it was. What will be the purpose of this vehicle /to drag race or street use only.

 

Ill order a set of the 3/4 release spring then. Its mainly for the street, going to the track less than 3-4 time a year. Trucks turbocharged and AWD. Fern

 

Steel Pistons

Hi Fern . The price of a 2004 4T40/45E forward clutch piston is $2.90 about $2.25 US . Now that is high volume purchasing. As far as ASTG they are a business as well . GM builds about 8000 units a day ,if they didn't need them they would be the first to leave them out. Our product Engineer told me the piston design change was strictly a cost issue. Stamped piston with molded seals verses machined aluminum piston with lip seals . Also less percentage of folded seals during installation.

 

IF you run the 3/4 release springs I would remove the springs.... then grind off about .050 for extra clearance during clutch pack apply. Re-install the springs for use

I don't run the release springs in any thing but a pure OE rebuild with the thick .106 steel plates like a 4L60E or 4L65e.

In a HP tranny I run TransGo spring kits on aluminum or steel pistons in the aluminum drum.

 

Question;

at what power level does the stock stator support/shaft fail?

 

Input shaft & and housing

I don't have the factory spec .however the 1993 LT1 Vette and F car were highest factory engine available and approved for that package. Of course the higher the torque the shorter it's life. On my 12 second Chevy 2, I built a 1992 v8 pickup truck version and I broke mine after about 4,000 miles and about 40 runs . But I did not know the previous miles or history of my old transmission.The input shaft was cracked at one of the oil holes as well as the housing broken appart. Bowtie overdrives does not deal with the Torque Drive Parts anymore. And the price I got was $ 299.00 for the modified shaft and housing as well as the sun shell. I would like to purchase only the input housing not the Sun Shell but they will not separate.

 

Paul,

What kind of MPH are you running and how heavy is your chevy 2. This will allow me to estimate the hp.

thanks

try http://www.redrider.us/700r4_performance_transmission_p.htm

for torque drive. I'm planning on calling tommorrow

 

700 r4

My 1967 Chevy 2 weighs 3200 lbs and with3.55 gears and 2100stall and 235 /60 R15 BFG drag radials turn 12:80 @106 mph.

 

Theres a guy on ebay selling a steel sleeve that gets pressed on the input shaft right where the drum usually breaks, it also comes with a modified over run piston. This would be an alternative to the torque drive package. He also sells a hardened stock sunshell with a laser welded collar around the splined area. Its also machined for a torrington thrust bearing instead of the plastic bushing. I can vouche for the quality. For what its worth...

 

700R4 sleeve

Syclone477 Could you tell me which Ebay either Ebay.ca or Ebay.com, I looked myself and could not find it. Thanks Paul

 

Paul, its on ebay.com. Just type in 700r4 in the search and youll see input drum reinforcement kit and another called sunshell kit.

 

Re: Re: 1993 700R4 Transmission Upgrades??

Question.

What purpose does plugging the bleed hole on the 3/4 drum have?

I'll address this by item, mostly in order

With the wider band the drum MUST be flat. A straight edge across it will show how flat it is. This drum often cups.

Steel pistons remove the cracked aluminum piston problem. With these molded pistons use the TRansGo # 7-CS spring kit per thier instructions.

The Sonnax boost valves work well.

Alto 9 pack frictions work well. Set clearance at .040 or less. The one piece "60E" tranny 3/4 pressure plate can be machined down about .040 to gain claerance in the drum if needed. I only machine down the friction area, so the thickness at the edge remains the same strength

The forward sprag, use one with dual guide rings. i've seen too many of the single ring sprag with problems, wear or flipped. Polish the inner race with 400 grit wet paper(solvent) and use 320 grit on the outter race surface.

Drain back holes in the 1993 pump are fine, BUT drill the matching hole in the stator support with your 5/16 bit.

Stiffer spring in the 1-2 accumilator is fine, no need to flip the piston on it. I've seen some companys that plug off this acc.... bad news.

Plug the feed hole of the 3-4 acc with a 1/4" inch check ball. Flip the piston and spring if you like.

I leave the converter check ball IN the input shaft. That is just the way i do it. Clamp the input shaft with drum in a vise(soft jaws) and check for loose splines in the drum from twist. IF the drum twists, replace it!

Stiffer pump slide springs or new OEM units are fine for higher RPM use.

I use JB weld KWIK epoxy on the bleed hole on the INSIDE of the aluminum drum under the 3/4 piston to plug this hole.

We have seen amazing things with cryogenic treated parts.

Block the line bias valve in place.

I would recomend the "Beast " drive shell.