In addition, to the rod bolts, check the piston skirts to be sure they are properly clearanced.

 

Yeah, it's usually the head of the rod bolt that is the problem. ARP angles the head to add more clearance. I don't know about Eagle rods though.

 

they have arp cap screws.. so im going to have to just grind the head until the cam clears?

 

383 stroker motors usually take a few trail fittings and some grinding here and there to get clearance. A reduced base circle cam would have helped clearance also, but I think you will be alright. The piston skirt clearance issue has been addressed by most manufacturers and as long as you have a set designed for the 383" there shouldn't be any problems there.

 

I've built quite a few of these engines with the eagle I- beam rods your using. With a cam like yours you should only have rod to cam clearance issues with two cylinders but check them all just to be safe. The clearance your shooting for between the rods and cam is between .040" to .050".

With the ones that dont clear you grind a little off at a time. When I do finally get them ground enough to clear one another I usually just slide a .040" feeler gauge blade between the rod bolt head and cam lobe. Then I keep grinding them until they just clear with the feeler gauge between them. It may take a few times grinding and rechecking as you dont wanna get too crazy and grind way more than you need too.

Doc

 

doc
witch two rods (cilinders)will hit the cam

thanks

 

i have 2 rods hitting the block that i know of... and i believe the back to rods are smacking the cam.. i just started putting one piston in at a time today.. when i get it right take it back out.. number it.. and keep going.. its a little faster than putting them all in and THEN trying to find where its hitting.. when i look down the cam hole every one of the rods poke up into the cam area.. im going to just grind all the rods down enough so they dont hit the cam when i spin them.. i know when the timing is set up theres a pattern it will follow... but what if something happens and it jumps a gear or two.. could hit then.. so im just grinding them all down until they clear.

 

I suppose thats one way of lookin at it...lol. But if the timing chain lets go while its runinng your going to have far more things to worry about then sheering a few cam lobes. Your method will work. Just make sure if your grinding these at home you try and get the grind as smooth as possible. Taking some 320 grit and takin some of the sharp edges and high spots off the area where you've ground will be good insurance against developing any stress cracks.

Doc

 

true about the chain lol...i been putting one piston in at a time.. then checking to see if it nicks the cam.. if it does grind it if not check the clearance then let it go if its good.. lol i've put about 4 or 5 hours in checking and rechecking.. removing the piston.. grinding.. putting it back in etc... hope its worth all the trouble in the end.

 

hi
i bought the scat cap true bolts they say they are
stroker clearance but a Little insurance wouldn't hurt to check
3.75 stroke 5.7 rods max valve lift 0.510
waiting for a few parts for assembling.

good luck with your engine
please post it when it runs or send me a pm :thumbup:

thanks