nope this will give you 505ci, and only a machinest can really tell you wether you can go .100" over or not. but i have heard of it being done with those blocks. most anyone would tell you though that you should only bore the cylinders as little as needed to clean them up for rebuild, if you can get away with .030" then that is what i would do and it would give you a 489ci, .060 would give you a 496. but in order to put the 4.250 crank in it you will need to have it stroker clearanced

 

All the 520 c.i. kits I've seen for the tall deck blocks require sleeves.

 

So if I use a stock 427 crank and go .60 over that makes it a 496 or do I use a 454 crack. See iam building a truck pulling moter so a just trying to figure out the best match

 

OK, here we go with the "stack" tutorial......

Any block has a nominal block deck height. This is the measurement from the centerline of the main bearing bore to the flat deck of the block where the heads bolt on. A tall deck Chevy has a block deck height of 10.200", so we have to construct a "stack" of parts that will fit into this space, while hopefully putting the piston crown close to the deck with the piston at top dead center.

The radius of the stroke of a 4.250" stroke crank is 2.125" (half the stroke), so we will start there. There are BBC rods available in lengths of 6.135" (stock), 6.335" (0.200" long), 6.535" (0.400" long) and many other lengths so that a fellow can build pretty much any stack he wants to.

If a fellow wanted to build, for instance, a 505 with 118/120cc open chamber heads for a 13.0:1 static compression ratio to run on race gas or alcohol, he might choose a forged piston like this SRP unit with a 1.520" compression height.
http://www.jepistons.com/Products/139544.aspx
Now, if we had a 1.520" piston compression height and a stroke radius of 2.125", we could add those together, then deduct the result from the known block deck height of 10.200" and find out what rod length we would need to use to get there. Let's see...
1.520 plus 2.125 equals 3.645. If we deduct 3.645 from 10.200, we find we have to fill up 6.555" of space inside the block. Since the closest rod length to this will be 6.535", we will use that length rod and have the piston dwell 0.020" down in the bore at TDC. A fellow could cut the block decks any amount up to 0.020" to square them up.

If you don't follow what I'm saying here, PLEASE....ask questions....

 

So if I use a stock 427 crank and go .60 over that makes it a 496 or do I use a 454 crack. See iam building a truck pulling moter so a just trying to figure out the best match

Nope a 427 crank (3.76" stroke) with a .060 overbore is a 427 with a 4.31 bore

A 454 "crack" (4.00" stroke) will net you a 454 with a 4.31 bore

A 496 will need a 4.25" stroke

 

So what does a 454 bored 06 over get you. What would be better for truck pullen a 427 tall deck your a 454 cuz I have both ?

 

a 454 bored over .060" will make a 468ci. i still say that you dont want to bore a motor over moe than what it needs to be, so if it only needs to be bored 030" then just do that the extra 7 cubes wont net enough to matter.

either motor would do just fine, but i'm pretty sure you would have to clearance the 427 tall deck for a 4.00" crank so as far as machine work cost the 454 would be less and you always go with the motor with the most displacement. the 427 tall deck would be a good motor to make a large stroker out of.

 

Ok now that I no what crank to use what about the rods should I use the stock 427 rods or buy something else.

 

i think you can fit the 4.250 crank in without any clearancing, i might be wrong here but im pretty sure i read that somewhere, someone please correct me if im wrong.

 

Ok now that I no what crank to use what about the rods should I use the stock 427 rods or buy something else.

we need to know what crank you plan on using first

 

Iam going to use a 4.250 stroke crank

 

4.25 crank
6.8" rod
1.27 pin height piston

thats a 10.195 stack, which would be just about perfect.

 

then your best bet would be to buy a stoker kit with a 4.250 crank, 6.535 rods, and a piston with a 1.520 compression height like Tech1 mentioned in an ealier post, this will give you a stack of 10.180 and since the deck height is 10.200 then you will have a .020 clearance between the piston @ TDC and the deck height, this will also allow you to plane the deck if needed in order to get a level surface for the boring

 

4.25 crank
6.8" rod
1.27 pin height piston

thats a 10.195 stack, which would be just about perfect.

this will work too, but doesn't really leave you any room to deck the block

 

decking the block costs money, and who wants to part ways with that stuff?

i know for my 427 TD i plan on using the 4.25 crank, 6.8 rod, 1.27 piston with a 4.250 bore and i can probably do it for about 2000, thats counting having the 10052902 heads ported ,polished and getting bigger valves dropped in, all in all i think it will be a proetty stout motor for a budget build.

 

If I use the parts that u have said can I still going to be able to run on pump gas cuz I am still going to have to drive this to the pulls

 

youll be able to run er on pump gas if you pick the right cam and pistons, just dont run over 9.5:1 CR

 

decking the block costs money, and who wants to part ways with that stuff?

i know for my 427 TD i plan on using the 4.25 crank, 6.8 rod, 1.27 piston with a 4.250 bore and i can probably do it for about 2000, thats counting having the 10052902 heads ported ,polished and getting bigger valves dropped in, all in all i think it will be a proetty stout motor for a budget build.

most times it's really not up to you whether or not you have the block decked or not, it's up to the block and whether or not the deck is level. i tend to deck every block a minimal amount just so that i'm starting with a fresh surface and i know i wont have any issues with getting a head gasket to seal properly. it doesn't cost that much money, especially when you think about the fact that you are already spend a ton at the machine shop for the block and getting the assy balanced

 

If I run that set up can I still pump gas

 

decking the block costs money, and who wants to part ways with that stuff?

I don't mean this to sound snotty, I just mean it to sound REAL. If you can't drop a hundred bucks to deck the block to square, then you have no business fooling with a motor in the first place.

 

I don't mean this to sound snotty, I just mean it to sound REAL. If you can't drop a hundred bucks to deck the block to square, then you have no business fooling with a motor in the first place.

X2 there tech1, that is kinda what i was saying on my ealier post

 

point taken, i didnt know the actual cost, i would agree with doing it a minimal amount as mentioned above, just to keep it square, bt thats about it.