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63 impala simple disc conversion

48K views 21 replies 13 participants last post by  Bryan59EC  
#1 ·
hello, i am new to the board and had a quick question on doing a disc brake conversion on my 63 impala. it looks like s10 front 2" drop spindles would bolt-on to my factory ball joints and tierod end. s10's also have the same bolt pattern as the impalla. could i use the entire s10 front spindle, rotor, caliper, and hub assembly to run disc brakes on the front of my car? would the factory master cylinder work or would i have to change to something else? could i just install the front assembly and hook it to the factory brake lines? my knowlage of brakes is very limited so any help would greatly be appreciated.

btw the car is being torn apart right now for fitment of a compleate air ride suspension which will lay frame rails with 20 inch diameter wheels up front and 22 inch diameter wheels out back.

thanks in advance for any help pretaining to the subject!

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#3 ·
I do know that you are going to have to change to a dual master cylinder and also a proportioning valve. Also your flex lines will need to be different to fit your disc brake calipers. Check with Roy at the RBBO club, he is an old GM technician , he can tell you for sure what you need.

[ January 30, 2002: Message edited by: Henry Highrise ]</p>
 
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#4 ·
ok everyone print this out


buy it yourself cheaper Impala disc brake conversion


get rotors from
69-74 nova
70-72 monte carlo
67-72 chevelle
69-72 gto
69-72 grand prix
69-72 buick skylark
69-72 buick grand sport
69-72 buick apollo


use the bearing and seals for the car you u choose to get the rotors from


calipers
75-75 nova
73-76 monte carlo
73-76 chevelle
73-76 grand prix
73-76 GTO
73-76 tempest


must use original power brake booster from 61-64 impala

must use a master cylinder from 71-72 impala deep cup bendix part number 10-1496

71-80 gm combination valve

73 chevelle brake hoses

must buy brackets for the calipers, many places in super chevy magazine sell them cheaply!!!
 
#5 ·
I have a Impala also....Here are some links for what you are looking for.....


<a href="http://www.classicperform.com/" target="_blank">http://www.classicperform.com/</a>
<a href="http://www.performancesuspension.com/" target="_blank">http://www.performancesuspension.com/</a>
<a href="http://www.yearone.com/welcomepagecomponents/welcome.html" target="_blank">http://www.yearone.com/welcomepagecomponents/welcome.html</a>


These shops will have everything you will need. If you are going with 20's you should invest in a 13 inch rotor up front. I have 18's all the way around with 235/50's and went with the 13 rotors front and back from Bremmo. My car stops as good as my Mom's new Z-O6.
 
#6 ·
63 impala disc conversion

you may be surprized to know that gm rotors were same 68-78 they changed the spindles.same with most gm cars.find a good brake supply and the #'s may be different but same rotor.the reason for certain year cut-off was metric studs! mark at www.scarebird.com can also help and they have laser cut brackets cheap.he has kit that uses s-10 rotors.check him out. good luck
 
#9 ·
PikFabrications said:
hello, i am new to the board and had a quick question on doing a disc brake conversion on my 63 impala. it looks like s10 front 2" drop spindles would bolt-on to my factory ball joints and tierod end. s10's also have the same bolt pattern as the impalla. could i use the entire s10 front spindle, rotor, caliper, and hub assembly to run disc brakes on the front of my car? would the factory master cylinder work or would i have to change to something else? could i just install the front assembly and hook it to the factory brake lines? my knowlage of brakes is very limited so any help would greatly be appreciated.

DO NOT use later spindles on your 63. GM changed the taper on the ball joint studs in the mid-70s. While you can physically bolt the later spindles onto the early ball joints, the tapered stud will not seat properly in the spindle and will be prone to breakage. Not a good idea. You CAN get tapered reamers from Speedway Motors to modify the later spindles to fit the early ball joints, but then you have the steering problem. Your 63 has rear steer (steering linkage behind the axle centerline). Newer cars have front steer (linkage in front of the centerline). The spindles won't work - and no, they don't swap side-to-side. I'd suggest you get a lot more informed about brakes before attempting such a swap.
 
#12 ·
dudes! i have a pair of the brackets from mark at scarebird for my 64' belair wagon and not only are they very reasonable but the quality shows. scarebird not only has quality brackets but excellent tech support. most of the time when you go for the least expensive you end up with junk and a disconnected phone number. when mark says"bolt on" they are :D
 
#13 ·
can u use this

buy it yourself cheaper Impala disc brake conversion


get rotors from
69-74 nova
70-72 monte carlo
67-72 chevelle
69-72 gto
69-72 grand prix
69-72 buick skylark
69-72 buick grand sport
69-72 buick apollo


use the bearing and seals for the car you u choose to get the rotors from


calipers
75-75 nova
73-76 monte carlo
73-76 chevelle
73-76 grand prix
73-76 GTO
73-76 tempest


must use original power brake booster from 61-64 impala

must use a master cylinder from 71-72 impala deep cup bendix part number 10-1496

71-80 gm combination valve

73 chevelle brake hoses

must buy brackets for the calipers, many places in super chevy magazine sell them cheaply!!!




can you use these parts along with the original spindles and make it work? it sounds flaky if you ask me but im no expert
 
#14 ·
63impalass said:
can you use these parts along with the original spindles and make it work? it sounds flaky if you ask me but im no expert
63impalass.......you don't seem to want to listen, so I will spell it out.

You can use your stock spindles. You have to buy some brackets to mount your calipers to. Our suggestion here has been for you to buy a pair from scarebird.com. They are about $120 for the pair. They come with instructions on what calipers, rotors, MC and prop valve to use.

There are probably other brackets that you can buy elsewhere.........but, the consensus has been that the scarebird ones are pretty darn good.

1959-64 Chevrolet Impala, SS, Bel Air, $125*

http://www.scarebird.com/6928.html
 
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#15 ·
Bryan59EC said:
Joe,

55-57 is rear steer
58-64 is front steer
65+ is rear steer------------I'm sure it changed again in the mid 70's (73?)
Bryan
Really? The 58-64 Olds B-body cars are rear-steer. I know the frames on the Olds are different from the Chevy, but I assumed the steering was similar. I guess not. Sorry for the mis-information.

By the way, 65-70 B-bodies are the same. The frame was changed for 71-76 with front steer and the different ball joint taper.
 
#16 ·
So If I read this correct, the 63 impalas have 4 3/4 on 5 bolt pattern? Interesting.....
One point that seems to be missing - you don't save yourself a ton of money by doing the junkyard crawl for parts.
I did the disk brake conversion on my A-Body (Buick)and saved maybe a couple hundred dollars..... fortunately I had excellent instructions at the start. If I had not had those instructions I could easily have spent more then simply going with a reputable dealer's complete kit. To break it down to real numbers..... Complete kit with tubular control arms 1000.00. I spent 100 for junkyard spindles, 180 for rotors, I reused my stock calipers, 60.00 for pads (that I had to go back twice to get), 400 for upper control arms, 100 for tie rod ends, new brake hoses 25.00 ..... $865.00.... as I said, a couple hundred dollars and I knew what to buy - the reasons I did it myself was I thought I was going to use the 11" rotors - that I already had.... but once I priced the rotors, I realized it'd cost 100 more to go with 12" disks...... Also, I was doing substantial other modifications to the suspension that would have made some of the parts in the kit spares.

In short, buy the kit.
 
#18 ·
If you buy the kit
it will move the front wheels out by about 3/8"----this should not be a problem at all, as I have 8" wheels on my 59 and do not have any issues with clearance (2" dropped spindle as well).

You can purchase the booster and master with a valve as a unit if desired.
You will need to also purchase front brake lines.
Not sure if you can get by using the original front/rear line, but it would be worth a shot. Might need a couple of adaptors and a plug for the 3-way block at the passenger front wheel.

A front line kit should include--- a left front line, right front line, and a crossover line for the rear.

Bryan
 
#22 ·
59-64 are the same
58 is only slightly different, but I think everything up to 64 will work.

I think the spindles are different on the 58, but everything else pertaining to front suspension is the same.

upper and lower control arms are the same----as well as ball joints.
tie rod ends, centerlink up to 64-----64 changed

idler arms and pitman arms changes every year I think, but if you use a
pitman & idler from the same year, they can interchange to 63

64 pitman & idler (i think) are all to themselves and have to be used with a
64 centerlink.

Bryan
 
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