https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-30705/media/instructions

Read the instruction part here. It has a schematic

 

Then I found this also

 

I ordered an alternator and a pigtail. I could have just used some spade connectors, but it was only $7 for the real thing.

So judging by the diagram above:

P is for tach signals... likely for diesels that don't have an ignition
L is for the indicator lamp which mine has... do I have a resistor on my lamp so that it charges if the lamp blows? Or should I add one? If so, how?
I is for ignition lead (which I think I already have in the existing harness)
S I'll just loop back to the Batt lug on the alternator, but I assume it is just for voltage and doesn't really carry any amperage? So 16ga would do?

Once I do all of that, will it charge all the time, or will I still have to throttle up to 1200 rpms to get it to start charging?

 

Make sure you upgrade the size of the main current wire from the alternator to the junction block or battery, the stock 10ga is not big enough to carry the load as it is more than double the amperage, close to triple, what the stocker could make..
You can swap to a bigger 6 ga or double up with two 10 ga.

This is something a lot of guys don't even realize.

 

Also ,on the 64 , may be on the 67 poncho as well, the alternator charge wire ( from the big post) runs through the bulkhead /wiring to the ignition switch then to the battery.

Its best to run a new /additional wire to the starter post or to the battery to take the load off the ancient wiring

 

That was the case on my 66 Bonneville (discovered when smoke started emerging from the dashboard) I'll double check, but I'm pretty sure on the 67 it goes from the alt to the starter lug, and then the fuse block/switch gets juice from there.

I'm doing a resto-mod/pro touring on this car and my finances are letting me do it in pieces. So every time something breaks I am upgrading with the hopes that it will carry over to the heavily modded LQ9/T56 swap sitting on a stand waiting to go in. Today I was researching steering columns and wiring harnesses which is the next piece of the puzzle.

 

I run the P terminal to an idiot dash light (the sense wire quite typically brown.) The S terminal to my source of battery voltage. You can run this just about anywhere - starter hot post, loop it back to bat terminal of the alternator or to the battery. Those are the only two on the plug that I use and need.

Regarding the charge wire, I would not use any less than #6 wire - I use #4, but my battery is in the trunk as well. Also, it's not a bad idea to put a fusible link in the charge wire off from the bat terminal (obviously in an easily accessed location.)

 

I did a CS130 conversion on my 62 Olds. Works great. The only thing is be sure to run a ground strap from the rear frame of the CS130 to the engine block. The electronics need a good path to ground, and the factory brackets for the CS130 incorporate a rear strut that provides that path. Your 67 won't have that, so the ground path is through the case, to the front bracket. The aluminum case and steel stator core suffer galvanic corrosion, which increases resistance and can cause the regulator to fail. The ground strap avoids that problem.

 

Good to know. I assumed that the bolts would do the trick, but I'm all about adequate grounds. When I ground a block to a frame I usually drill and tap the frame for a side-top post battery converter and use a beefy braided ground strap. Like these.

I went overkill after trying to start a Caddy 500 and forgetting the ground. The amperage tried to ground through the braided jacket of the Lokar tranny dipstick to the painted firewall. Ruined a fresh coat of paint on the firewall and a brand new Lokar dipstick.

 

I'll also add to just use the CS130 for a 1989 Olds Custom Cruiser with the 307 Olds motor. New (not rebuilt) ones are about $70 at RockAuto and they bolt right to your existing brackets for the 10DN alternator. This one even comes with a V-belt pulley, not a serpentine pulley, and it's 100 amps.

 

Man, that cuts right to the good part number. Thank you for cutting my search down to 1

 

Ooops… tried to link a photo but it didn't work.

 

Should energize without revving it up.

 

Just for clarity: The I lead has the resistor built into the regulator.... or built into the harness? I bought a harness without the resistor because I had the dash light.

It isn't a big deal right now, but future plans include ditching the dash light and using a voltmeter. If that's the case, I can hook up the dash light to L for now, then add a resistor and give switched power to I later?

What happens if I do hook up both and add a resistor to the I lead? Would that effectively solve the blown dash light issue? Or would it confuse the alternator getting two resistance leads?

I know I'm asking a ton of pointless questions, I just want to understand what's happening instead of just following directions; tab A, slot B.

I agree on the hot wire going back to the block so it gets the real voltage of what is happening downstream. I'll check but I think there is a hot wire in the 10DN harness, but it likely comes from the regulator on the firewall which would be disconnected.

 

Just for clarity: The I lead has the resistor built into the regulator.... or built into the harness? I bought a harness without the resistor because I had the dash light.

The CS130 regulator has the resistor built in, so you only need a wire to that terminal, no external resistor.

 

My usual method when upping amperage on an alternator is to just run a 4ga straight from the alternator to the battery. In this car, that's about 15". I don't see the need to run charging juice all the way down to the starter and back up the battery cable. Cut out the middle man, I say. If that's the case, the S wire wouldn't see much (if any) difference in voltage if I source it from the back of the alt or from the battery itself.

I think what I may do in this case is test voltage drop through my old crusty wiring. If I get 14.7 at the alt/battery and 13v at the ignition switch, I'll do the sense wire from the battery/lug. I don't want to tell it that it's only making 13v because it will kick up its output from 14.7 to over 15 somewhere. If I'm getting 14.5v at the ignition switch, I can do the S wire from the fuse block. For now (until I do a new wiring harness) I want to give healthy voltage to the battery, get it there as directly as possible with a fresh 4ga wire, and not ask the rest of the old wiring to carry any of the additional potential.

Kinda like putting the coolant temp sender in the head versus in the radiator. The radiator would lie to you and tell you it's cooler than it actually is.