Check out: Chevrolet Steel Mounting Brackets

Lots of options.

 

Check out: Chevrolet Steel Mounting Brackets

Lots of options.

on one engine swap I used a Chevy monza V8 brackets.

 

Thank you. Im not concerned with brackets. I can make those. My issue is if I mount the alt where it is pictured, the water pump pulley doesnt line up. And the alt cant move back further because of the cylinder head.

 

Did you even look at the options presented??

There is a low mount available, puts the alternator at the same level as the crank pulley, beside the block but in front of the motor mount. #206L, 207L, 209L, or maybe even 211L on passenger side.

 

Might consider turning the alternator around so it faces the opposite direction and lining up the pulleys that way. Then fab brackets to work for you.

 

I considered that. It wont clear the sheet metal/fenders. I think im just going to install another pulley ontop of the current waterpump pulley.

 

The way sbc alternators are usually mounted is one of three common ways.

1) Mounted on the driver's side, with the long bracket, and supporting bracket that mounts with the header/exhaust bolts. This is what you're saying you don't want.

2) Mounted on the passenger side, around the top of the motor.

3) Mounted on the passenger side, near the bottom of the block.

NOTE: The power steering pump typically uses its own belt, it doesn't share the belt with the alternator and water pump. It's usually one belt for alternator/water pump, and another belt for power steering.

Why are you not mounting it on the passenger side?
That's the most common configuration.
There are plenty of aftermarket brackets for passenger side mounting, since the power steering pump isn't in the way.

EDIT: Sorry, I thought you had mentioned a power steering pump, but you said water pump... so I'm assuming you don't have to worry about the PS pump.

There are some aftermarket brackets to mount on the driver side, but you can find stock ones for the passenger side.

 

Oops, after Eric's post below, I realized that they have more options for the Short Water Pump than I thought... disregard.

 

The most "tucked in" that you'll get looks like the passenger side "mid-mount".
You'd need the Long Water Pump and pulleys for that.
It seems like all of the driver side low mount brackets are not as tucked in.

So it just depends how tucked in you need it...

 

If none of those options works for you, and you really want it in the position shown, and you really want to make brackets... you'll need the Long Water Pump and pulleys.

LWP pulleys should be easy to come by in the junkyard.
However, they'll almost always be big things with grooves for A/C and PS...

But I guess if you're going to make brackets, you could just flip it around to fit your pulleys...
I'll be curious to see how you handle this...

 

Tbuckets are known for both a lack of space and the need too try and hide " unsightly" engine components ,the most popular choice is the the passenger side low mount , granted , there isn't much space for adjustment , but it works fine . There are also small " garden tractor" alternators , they generally are fairly low output , but enough to keep a battery & some accessories going . Look at the available bracketry & pattern your own ,thats what I did

 

Do you run headers? The Header Power Bracket will tuck the alternator closer to the heads than any other and there are both left and right side brackets that can avoid dealing with the #2 header mount holes (PITA). For a closer tuck, just don't get the spacer and use a bit shorter belt.

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Do you run headers? The Header Power Bracket will tuck the alternator closer to the heads than any other and there are both left and right side brackets that can avoid dealing with the #2 header mount holes (PITA). For a closer tuck, just don't get the spacer and use a bit shorter belt. These are made for use with the short or Corvette water pumps, which is w3hat you appear to be dealing with.

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Don't like what they did to this site. Can't seem to edit my posts anymore and they duplicate. Sorry.

 

Click on the 3 dots on the top right of your post, and you should see "edit" as one of the choices.

 

I believe once the tractors hood and fenders are on he does not have room for most brackets.

Still look at them though. Most are cheap or easy enough to cut yourself.

If none will work.

Then because this engine sits high and I believe nothing is under the pan consider going under the crank

 

Yeah, the header bracket thing is what he's trying to avoid.
The stock header bracket is on the driver side, up to '68 I believe.

 

Here's a top right mount.

Here's a lower left mount.

 

Wouldn't this require a long water pump?

 

Nope. Short pump.

 

I had a similar problem when I built my T bucket. This was my solution. I used a small Nippondenso alternator from a Suzuki Swift ( I think, been a long time). There are several small Denso alternators. They are used on a lot of smaller cars and on Kubota tractors. Some of the Kubota units are permanent magnet and don't need any additional wiring, other than a main charging wire, but they only put out about 25 amps. The one I used was 45 or 55 amps, which should be more than enough for a typical tractor. The Denso alternators are the same type typically sold as a mini alternator, but I don't think the cases of those are the same as the one I used.

If you have a local shop that rebuilds alternators and starters, you might give them a visit. They often have old units on the shelf that have not been picked up. You might score a rebuilt unit cheap. At least they might have some you can look at for size.

This was the mount I built. I used a single groove pulley setup and a short water pump. This setup worked for 10 years and many thousand miles with no issues. Yes, my T bucket was a great driver.

 

Forgot to mention that the alternator I used originally had a serpentine belt pulley. My local rebuilder had a v-belt pulley that fit one of the Kubota units. He swapped it out when I had it rebuilt.

 

If you still can't find a place for it up front there is always the option of mounting it to the rear end with a pulley on the driveshaft NASCAR style. Just another option for you to concider.

As a side note I have had TWO chrome pulley failures due to hydrogen embrittlement. Keep an eye on cracks at the bolt holes.

 

I kinda doubt he'll ever get enough driveshaft speed to spin an alternator ....

 

I f you are going to use Ram Horn manifolds would using the stock Ram Horn manifold mounting flange work?

 

How ever you mount the alternator with serpentine or V belt, the water pump MUST spin the correct direction. Water pumps driven by the backside of a serp belt, spin counterclockwise (opposite of crankshaft rotation). Water pumps driven by v belts spin clockwise (same as crankshaft rotation). See pic for slight difference in water pump impeller. The water pumps are NOT interchangeable.

 

Your tractor got a PTO?

Russ

 

Your tractor got a PTO?

Russ

He might want to use it like a tractor !!

 

I think jaw22W has the best idea in his 1st picture with the alt up top. I would add an idler between the alt and water pump to get more belt wrap around the water pump pulley and use the idler mounting bracket for belt tension adjustment. You have room under the Ford N hood to do this. Do a tilt nose and put the fuel tank behind the seat as Marvin Baumann did.

 

Tractor PTO runs 540 RPM at engine speed of about 1600 RPM. You'd need a pulley on the PTO about 18 to 20" diameter to get the alt RPM into an operable range.

 

So, run a starter/generator off the flywheel.

Just get some plywood to cut into temporary brackets and start experimenting with where you can fit the alternator. Your building something different. If you want to keep the hood and hood sides on your going to play around with a couple engineering headaches.

 

Short pump

 

on one engine swap I used a Chevy monza V8 brackets.