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anyone have an extra $1,200?

2.9K views 30 replies 11 participants last post by  akm  
#1 ·
my fudgen transmission went out today in my lincoln.
called about a 100 places trying to find the best deal, prices ranging from $1,200 to $2,500. sat though a couple of inspections and no one could tell me **** besides "we have to pull it". MFer. life is a bit-ch sometimes. i'm taking real estate classes right now and can't find the time (between that and working my non paying job at Network Realtors) to find a job to pay for this.

WHY!? WHY GOD WHY!?

is suicide an option? :smash: :spank: :boxing: :evil: :pain:

Aaron

p.s. and for the record, no i'm not serious about the suicide thing.
 
#4 ·
Carbed95GT said:
Would you consider a used tranny? If so, try Car Part . It's an online junkyard database, and most of the yards listed will ship anywhere. They're quite reasonable, and some even guarantee the piece to work. Anything has gotta be better than shelling out $1200, right?
thats a bada$$ little site there. i'll probably use that for years to come, thanks.
looks like i may have to take a drive to Abilene TX sometime real soon.
now if i only had a lift, because that thing is gonna be a biotch to get out of there without one.
 
#6 ·
bad tranny, bad bad tranny!

I had a 78 Impala wagon. The tranny would not go into 3rd gear?? Called and went by the tranny shop and was told $800 to fix it, maybe $1200 if the pump is bad? I took my car to the quick oil change place as per one of my buddys and had them change the filter and tranny fluid and vwalaa, no more tranny problems!! It worked for me, so when was the LAST time you changed fluid and filter on that bad boy?? Just a thought.


Tazz


RAt Rods Rule!
 
#7 ·
Re: bad tranny, bad bad tranny!

tm454 said:
I had a 78 Impala wagon. The tranny would not go into 3rd gear?? Called and went by the tranny shop and was told $800 to fix it, maybe $1200 if the pump is bad? I took my car to the quick oil change place as per one of my buddys and had them change the filter and tranny fluid and vwalaa, no more tranny problems!! It worked for me, so when was the LAST time you changed fluid and filter on that bad boy?? Just a thought.


Tazz


RAt Rods Rule!
actually, the first place i took it to, pulled the pan and filter. the filter didn't look too bad and they had to refill it with the new so i could get out of there.
nope didn't help, SS.
 
#10 ·
akm said:
yes, but i don't have $850 yet.
i'm thinking that i'll rob a bank. with my blank record (never been arrested, knock on wood), if i get caught, it shouldn't be that bad. lol
Slap on the wrist, for sure. ;)

Maybe you could sell some left over parts that you're not gonna use? That's what I do when I'm in a pinch. :)
 
#16 ·
i think i could swing it.
now i don't know about men wanting to hit it, well maybe if i was the pitcher. damn sure wouldn't be the catcher. :D

i have some old parts (that i offered to larry, but they just weren't good enough :D ), but can't figure anyone needing them.
but wait. you're a ford girl, need an aluminum intake for a 351M- 400 block? i have two, one open, one split. cheap, very cheap.
do ya do ya do ya? huh huh huh? no? well guess its back to being a whore. now wheres that jelly [lisp].
 
#17 ·
Damn. :( Had they been Windsor parts, I'd have jumped on them. You can never have too many accumulated parts! :D Have you tried selling on eBay? I made a bundle off stuff I thought was worthless. If you're wanting to sell them "dirt cheap" you shouldn't have any problems at all. :)
 
#20 ·
2-manytoyzs said:
akm What is it that the tranny does exactly? I have seen things as simple as a VSS sensor go bad and cause all kinds of driveability problems. Did the shop pull codes on the diag? That tranny is electronically controlled by the PCM. Codes should be in the PCM memory if its an electrical problem.
the first place i took it to, ran the codes and came up with nothing (no codes). so i think its internal.
what its doing:
from first to second, it slams into second.
from second to third, the rpms raise real high (about 4000) and then it slowly goes into third.
and the same from third to forth.
but the funny thing about it is, when they pulled the pan, there wasn't an excess amount of shavings in the pan. just the normal haze. which makes me think that they might be trying to rape me on the deal. but i don't know that much about transmissions, and i damn sure don't know how to rebuild them, so i might just end up getting screwed on the deal.
 
#23 ·
I had similar problems with a 94 windstar ---Axod---acts odd--transaxle. When I went to rebuild it, the piston in one of the clutch packs was collapsed and cracked! It was made of aluminum but when I ordered a new one from Ford--- The new one was STEEL!! I asked the parts man whats up with this? Was this an upgrade because the aluminum part wasn't up to snuff? He just smiled and said Maybe! After I put everything back together, It ran and shifted great for 70,000 miles, when I sold it. I believe that your trans is similar to this unit except it is a conventional rear drive. Could be the same problem! It cost me less than $100.00 to fix mine!
 
#24 ·
The problem is, finding an honest tech that will only fix the problem instead of the shotgun method of repair. Sounds like more of a control problem, possible valve body, or governor prob. With no contamination, hard shifting, and slip in 2-3, 3-4 seems too many things went out at once. Problem is, a tech can erase the codes, and then tell you there were no codes to justify a trans replacement. A Linc/Merc dealer has a lot of expertise and tech info but are more expensive, but then, to find an honest dealer tech is hard too, cuz of the commission if there on flat rate. It could still need a full replacement, but that was a good tranny and didn't have a lot of complete failures, unlike the early taurus/sable line of FWD.
 
#26 ·
Dude, pull it yourself and drop it on the guy's counter. I'm having a 'bench rebuild' on my '83 C5 at a local tranny shop for $400. That includes new bands, clutches, pump, converter, and complete valve body rebuild. That's pretty darn good if you ask me.

1. Undo your U-joint, pull out your driveshaft (fluid will spill from the back)

2. Undo the 'crossmember to trans mount' bolts.

3. Jack up the rear of the trans. (should slide away from the crossmember now)

4. Remove transmission crossmember.

5. Jack the front of the trans (just put pressure on it, don't try to jack it up, its still attached to the engine dummy)

6. Remove 'bellhousing to block' bolts.

7. Wiggle it back and run like he!! when it falls.


That's what I did. Hey wait a minute, I'm missing a toe.



MoocH