get the storebought or some thick rubber.

 

It is a pain to cut up a tire. I use my metal cutting bandsaw and it is still a beeyatch. If you have steel belted tires those are next to impossible to cut up.

I'd do like matt says and buy some.
mikey

 

Ya, steel belted tires are a pita but non steel or bias ply ain't too bad using a skill saw with a carbide tip blade.

 

One day in the near future I'd like to get the compressor off of the shipping pallet & mounted to the floor. I have an old tire that I could cut up & use as anti vibration pads but was wondering if this would work or should I get the storebought ones?

Thanks,
Steve

My tank is still bolted to the shipping pallet, too.

Don't know about using a tire for compressor mounting, but that's what was used by GM for my Olds' body: "The body is securely mounted on the chassis, tire carcass shims separating the body from the frame." Those worked well for 57 years. They appear to be from the sidewall. Your compressor probably won't have to withstand travelling down roads of various states of paved and unpaved, so pieces of an old tire should hold up well.

I've had good luck cutting up tires with my sawzall and a fine toothed blade (14 tpi and up). Dip it in a brake fluid + water solution often and keep the foot close to or against the tire.

 

I thought of the same thing til one day while walking through a parking lot and came across a mud flap (gaurd) from a tractor trailer. Cut to size and doubled it. Been working fine so far.

 

I thought of the same thing til one day while walking through a parking lot and came across a mud flap (gaurd) from a tractor trailer. Cut to size and doubled it. Been working fine so far.

Probably could get all you want at a truck service center too....

 

I haven't had a chance yet, since I just bought my compressor in 1986. I will take it off the shipping pallet one day. I had some pieces of tire, that I had cut to put under the pallet. They did quiet it down some, even though it was not bolted to the ground. They aren't under it anymore, simply because they are a PIA to put back in after moving it.

Aaron

 

I left my vertical compressor on the neat wood pallet it came on. Perfect fit, 100% vibration insulation, no $$.

 

This is a like new tire with about 1000 miles on it before something went thru the sidewall. ain: Will check the stores in the area & get prices, if too high might try this first & if it doesn't work and I have to buy them anyway all I'm out is a little time. Would it be better to take it off the pallet and bolt the mounting boards to the floor or to remove the wood completely? ( either way it will be on rubber pads)

 

I personally have gotten used to mine being on a pallet. I was afraid that it would work the bolts loose if I tried bolting it straight to the floor. Also, as soon as I did that, it would go out, and the replacement wouldn't use the same holes.

Aaron

 

I used the rubber bushing from a shock and 3/8" anchors into the concrete.

 

air compressor pads

How about insulators used oc FWD cars that hold the engine cradle to the frame. They are beefy and cheap.

To be honest mine is still on 2x4s from 1974.

Russ

 

Mine is just sitting on 1/4" rubber pads and I never bolted it to the floor.
So far it hasn't moved at all. It's a 60 gallon upright (Eaton).
I would like to have some thicker pads, it's right beside my bench,
but when it's running I can see my paint mixing all by itself!!! imp:

 

bolts

my friend has broke the welds on the tank to feet on two compressors from bolting them down. that is with rubber under the feet. the wood skid is the way to go. just be sure to flex pipe the compressor to the hard lines in your shop. good luck
chez

 

Thanks guys!

I am glad to know that I am not the only one with his compressor (60 gallon upright) still bolted to the pallet it came on. I feel like a member of an elite club now.

It makes it easy to move that way. No matter where it is...it is always in the way for something :thumbup:

 

The pallet is a perfect mount - dampens vibrations, is nice to the floor and compressor, already there so is free, fairly easy to move. What is not to like?

 

tire-mounted compressor

At the shop, i had mounted a noisy paint shaker to the floor with 1/2'' rubber sheet and it killed the rattle. I needed to mount my home compressor to something simular for anti-theft and anti-walking reasons, and found some stable pads at Tractor Supply for about $30, and had leftover material for many other uses. Keep in mind that a bolted-down unit is harder to snag!

 

I just bought an old Snap-On compressor with a burned out switch. When calling Brama (the ones who manufacture for Snap-On), I asked what the most common reason for switch contacts burning out is. He told me that running the compressor on the shipping pallet doesn't absorb enough vibration, and that most often leads to burnt out contacts over the years. Just a heads up.

C.

 

compressor mounting pads

I just bought an old Snap-On compressor with a burned out switch. When calling Brama (the ones who manufacture for Snap-On), I asked what the most common reason for switch contacts burning out is. He told me that running the compressor on the shipping pallet doesn't absorb enough vibration, and that most often leads to burnt out contacts over the years. Just a heads up.

C.

I do not fully agree with that statement because a very large number of us still have our compressor's on skids with no problems with the pressure control switch. IMO, the environment of the shop, the amount of usage amp draw of the motor, and yes vibration will cause the unit to fail

Those of us on well water systems use the same pressure switch. They last about the same amount of time without the vibration.

As stated above this is my opinion. It is not ment to PO anyone. russ

 

I do not fully agree with that statement because a very large number of us still have our compressor's on skids with no problems with the pressure control switch. IMO, the environment of the shop, the amount of usage amp draw of the motor, and yes vibration will cause the unit to fail

Those of us on well water systems use the same pressure switch. They last about the same amount of time without the vibration.

As stated above this is my opinion. It is not ment to PO anyone. russ

He wasn't referring to the pressure control switch, but the switch contacts themselves....as for me....this is my first compressor, so I couldn't tell otherwise.

C.

 

compressor mounting pads

He wasn't referring to the pressure control switch, but the switch contacts themselves....as for me....this is my first compressor, so I couldn't tell otherwise.

C.

Krazz, I hope you know I am Not trying to PO you!

The pressure switch is the gray box (mostly made by Square D Elect.) that has the contacts in it. This switch starts the motor until it reaches the set cut off pressure, then shuts off.

When the air pressure drops to the set cut in pressure , the motor starts the cycle again.

This is the only place there are any contacts that I know of. Should I be wrong I apologize. If I am right I should shut-up LOL russ

 

Krazz, I hope you know I am Not trying to PO you!

The pressure switch is the gray box (mostly made by Square D Elect.) that has the contacts in it. This switch starts the motor until it reaches the set cut off pressure, then shuts off.

When the air pressure drops to the set cut in pressure , the motor starts the cycle again.

This is the only place there are any contacts that I know of. Should I be wrong I apologize. If I am right I should shut-up LOL russ

OK....I'm gettin it now. Being that the pressure switch assembly cost me $55, I'll be mounting mine on some sort of rubber like the dude recommends. Maybe cheap insurance??

 

air commpressor

I have a 5 hp 80 gallon tank compressor thats been on the pallet for 20 years. Can't think of a better way to have it. Easy to move which i've done several times in 20 years. works great why mess with perfection?

 

compressor

OK....I'm gettin it now. Being that the pressure switch assembly cost me $55, I'll be mounting mine on some sort of rubber like the dude recommends. Maybe cheap insurance??

That's installed? Not a bad price. The control is about $20 at a plumbing/electrical supply. Don't want you to get burned.

The tank line screws in the bottom. There are 4 screws, 2 for the motor 2 for the line voltage (power cord). They are well marked. It's the adjustments (cut in pressure and cut out pressure) that takes a little time.

russ

 

That's installed? Not a bad price. The control is about $20 at a plumbing/electrical supply. Don't want you to get burned.

The tank line screws in the bottom. There are 4 screws, 2 for the motor 2 for the line voltage (power cord). They are well marked. It's the adjustments (cut in pressure and cut out pressure) that takes a little time.

russ

Nope, that's the price of the unit alone....guess I should have checked other sources. The motor has a couple of problems as well...mainly, the terminal pad in the back of the motor is broken, and the thermal overload switch is out. I've been checking around for replacement parts, but can't seem to find them. There's a motor repair place down the street from my work, and hopefully they'll have the parts.

C.