Here you are throwing money at it already!
Buying stuff you might not need.
‘Besides dragging it home have you dropped it off at the machine shop to check it over.
‘And tools. You got the tools needed. Especially an engine stand.
etc, etc, etc.

 

Here you are throwing money at it already!
Buying stuff you might not need.
‘Besides dragging it home have you dropped it off at the machine shop to check it over.
‘And tools. You got the tools needed. Especially an engine stand.
etc, etc, etc.

Good points RWENUTS, I did not mention any of this in my intro....
I have not dropped it off at the shop yet, but it will get there when I am ready to bore as I do not have a boring bar.
I do think I have the necessary tools for this build, hopefully. If not, I can acquire what is needed.
Engine stands, hoists, hot tank, valve job equipment, straight edges, bore gauges, micrometers, toque wrenches, etc... pretty much what most have in their home shops.
We do have a machine shop within a few hours drive when needed.
In a different lifetime ago, I did work as a machinist in an automotive machine shop for several years, boring blocks, turning/straightening cranks, resizing rods, valve jobs, and several other tasks that are common with a machine shop. I did not build engines, I just machined engine parts. However, this was a very long time ago and I would never consider myself as someone that knows all - because I don't.
Things do change, and I seemed to have lost a few brain cells along the way....

I ordered the crank and rods as I have none, and I feel fairly certain I will use, even if the current project takes and unpredictable turn.
In any case, it is all for fun.

 

Make sure to have it magnafluxed before anything else. A fresh overbore is your best best for good sealing. 30 over is fine. Have it done with deck plates.

 

if your first build have you considered buying a fitted block or short block and doing the bolt ons?
540 would not be much reletively speaking

 

You need to educate yourself on the GEN 5 BBC. it is different from the GEN4 or the GEN6. I built a GEN5 and learned that this block is very different. Regular GEN 4 heads do not fit due to different water port alignment, they take a different head gasket specific to GEN5. . Timing chain is different, MY timing cover bolt pattern and oil pan fitment was also different. Do yourself a favor and sell it while you can and get a GEN4 block, which is real simple.

 

He stated already ordered crank and rods.

 

Step number one is clean and inspect the block. This should include Magnaflux or die penetrant. There is no sense in spending money on parts till you know the block is sound. Everything these days are thin wall castings and cracking is a pretty common event it really only takes an overheat event Anf the factory coolant fill with DexCool provided a lot of those events in Chevy and GMC engines of the the late 1990’s through early 2000’s.

Bogie

 

Only consider roller cams, solid or hydraulic. For street use on pump gas keep the quench really tight, like 0.030.
I would go with the Holley Sniper rather than the Fitech.

 

Only consider roller cams, solid or hydraulic. For street use on pump gas keep the quench really tight, like 0.030.
I would go with the Holley Sniper rather than the Fitech.

Imsport, learn me a little more on cams please.
I had planned to run 9.0-9.5 CR but had not given a cam much thought yet ....and I need too but I am not sure what number to consider.
If I read correctly, the G5 was equipped with a non-adjusting flat tappet cam. Will the G5 accept a roller?
The Edelbrock Performer heads have caught my eye with 2.190 intakes, 118 cc chambers, and 300'ish runners.
With a -12 or so dome, I could hit the cr I was looking for.

KC

 

I like the Brodix Race Rite heads.
With aluminum heads I would use a 9.6 to 9.8 compression ratio.
Cams are going to depend on the vehicle, usage, etc

 

With alum heads I would shoot for closer to 11-1 cr. You leave a lot of power on the table with 9 or 9.5 Try to stay with a flat top piston of some type. You need to get a piston with the correct compression height to keep quench tight. Some times it can mean decking the block to get the quench height optimal. Dome pistons can interfere with fuel burn in the combustion chamber on a street engine Cam is going to depend on a lot of things. But as mentioned go with a roller of some type. Stay away from flat tappet because of lifter problems. Ernie. You'll get good info out here from guys that know a lot more than i do. Ernie.

 

Spoke with the machine shop and will drop block off Friday.
He said he needed 2 weeks to complete inspection and boring.
Crank and rods arrived yesterday (Monday).

KC

 

Just a thought here. I'm curious of the opinions from the folks already on this discussion (the names on this post have A LOT more experience and knowledge than I do).

I would return the crank and rods you ordered. If you have to cover a return fee, I think it will "pay for itself" in the end to do so. A 4.25" crank and 6.385" rods will yield a nice gain in torque. The kind of gain that makes paying a return fee make good sense when considering a "money spent to gain in power" scenario.

I would be looking at building a 489/496 and keeping it in the 6000 RPM or less operating range. In doing so, the externally balanced cast crank would be the most cost effective using a cast crank. The internally balanced cast 4.25" crank requires Mallory and drives up the cost of the balance job considerably. With the externally balanced crank you could use the 6.135" rods, but the 6.385" rod and shorter compression height piston combination is lighter (grams count!). Some folks prefer the higher compression height pistons for better strength in the ring lands. Either way will work.

I wouldn't consider an externally balanced cast option on a race application, but for the street and an occasional 6000 RPM shift I would...and did.

Gen 5 block in that picture. The Gen 5 and 6 have that machined boss like the timing cover on the front. They have slightly taller main caps, if you end up replacing the fasters it's something to consider.

That block is not provisioned for a factory roller lifter, but I would make use of the provision for the cam retaining plate with a step nosed cam for use with retrofit roller lifters.

I think most or nearly all of the aftermarket aluminum heads for the BBC have more of a "universal" water jacket hole that allow for use on that Gen 5 block. That's another thing to confirm for sure when ordering. I know a couple of guys that use aftermarket heads on Gen 5 marine applications without any trouble.

 

I am with you all the way 1979Malibu when you say "the names on this post have A LOT more experience and knowledge than I do".
I like your recommendations and Thank you.... but I have already ordered the cam based on the current specs.
Bore: 4.28"
Stroke: 4.0"
Comp Ratio: 10:1
Chamber: 118 cc
Intake Runners 315 cc
Valve Diameter: 219/1.88 int/ex
Valve Springs: 150/425 # closed/open
Hydraulic Roller
Operating Range: 2600 - 6500 rpm
Duration @ .050" 237/243 int/ex
Advertised Duration: 290/296 int/ex
Lift: 635/640 int/ex
Lobe Separation: 112 degrees
Intake Centerline: 108 degrees

KC

 

"Having a combination of parts designed to work together can be the difference between having a car that passengers say runs well and having a car that scares people when they ride in it." -Anonymous

As Ericnova72 mentioned, the combination of parts have to compliment one another. I think most folks agree that a build should begin with the best appropriate cylinder heads your budget allows. If you already have the 315cc heads, we can work with that. If you are planning to go forward with the 4" stroke, we can work with that. For what you want overall, the combination of the 315cc heads and the 4" stroke won't work together as well as other options.

I understand the urgency to get things rolling. We all get that way with stuff like this. Getting the block checked out and determining it's good to use is the first step here. If it doesn't check out, the next good deal on a block may be a 2 piece rear main. Then what?

We could start with a list of parts to achieve your goals and see what you think will work well going forward? I can submit a combination tomorrow as a jumping of point. Between now and then, let us know what you're plan for a transmission and rear end are. Also, when you mention drivability consider the amount of in town and highway driving you intend to do. That will help to nail down what sort of gear ratio may work the best. Then we can sort out what RPM range to build for, heads, cam, torque converter, etcetera. It's all one big combination and all the pieces need to fit.

 

I don't know how you picked a cam spec without even knowing what cylinder head, and what size header primary tube you are going to use....those would be critical to a cam pick.
Hopefully it wasn't the Edelbrock head?? There is quite a bit better out there for the same money or less.
You're paying a premium just for their name on the box.

I agree with 1979Malibu, the 4.25" stroke crank and longer than stock rods would have been the smartest move.

 

1979Malibu, I understand and agree where you are coming from and every recommendation is very much respected and appreciated.
I have been very open in admitting I am unfamiliar with "building" BBC's and It is difficult for me to identify information that is based on science or experience, compared to preference.
I agree, this block may be junk. If so, I do have another G5.
I do not have any G4's or G4 parts, nor plan to acquire any.
I also understand everything does not always go as planned. If both G5's are defective, I may end up with a G4, but that is not the plan.
I also agree the longer stroke and larger bore is more efficient hp/tq.
I have the stock stroke and rod length in my hands. Will I be $$$ ahead to ship these parts back and acquire the longer stroke/rod length to achieve 500 hp/tq, or will the $$$ be the same?
I do know the plans on this build will never extend to 1,000+ hp/tq. If I wish to take that path, it will be a different build/vehicle altogether.
As far as drivability goes.... If I can drive this pickup to town to my Dr. appt and not have to shift the automatic manually, or use both feet on the brake pedal at the stop signs/lights, that would be great! It is 15 miles to town and town driving will be minimal. I suspect 2000 total miles annually may be a stretch. Again, no towing, hauling, or racing.
The trans will be the 700R4 that I removed from the truck a year ago. I have not rebuilt yet nor bought the converter, but this is coming.
I have not checked the rear gears yet, so I have no idea what is in there. This truck had a factory 305 engine before and seemed to cruise well on the hwy.

KC

 

That's good information. Thanks.

The crank/rods thing really comes down to what it would cost to return it. If it's 100 bucks to do it, I think anyone here would spend that money on a proven way to increase the torque by 50-70 lb/ft. If it turns out to be a couple hundred or more with shipping/restock fees, then not so much. You're going to reach your goal with either set up. The longer stroke would probably help from a drivability standpoint considering you could have a lower RPM combination. 500lb/ft with the 4" crank and 550 lb/ft with the 4.25" crank are pretty much a sure thing. Those are conservative estimates too.

The 315cc heads would really be better of in a higher RPM application, especially with the 4" stroke build. I think it's been proven over and over that the smaller oval port heads perform better in street style builds where RPM is typically 6000 RPM or less most of the time. If you're going racing with RPM or get into more extreme displacements, the larger rectangle ports shine. The recommendation for the Brodix Race Rite 270 heads lmsport mentioned will serve either crank/rod combo superbly for this application.

Cam selection would make sense to me at around 224 @.050" for the 4" stroke and 228-230 @.050" for the 4.25" stroke. The idea there would be max HP somewhere around 5500 and shifting 6000 when you stand on it. You could go larger in either combo for more RPM. Folks may chime in and advise that anyway. 10:1 compression would be the minimum in either case.

Performer RPM intake on a street build does the job. You could consider an air-gap version if this is a warm weather only vehicle. Full throttle race builds focus on plenum/runner velocity more and can get away with less heat. The street stuff needs some heat in the intake (warm weather or longer warm up).

Vacuum secondary carburetors serve a street build well. They offer more of a "take what it needs" option than tuning a mechanical secondary. Opinions vary on that as much as they do on sizing. I think you could make an 850 work well in either build, folks get good response from 750's on a 454.

Header size 1.75" and 1.875" primary tube work really well on street bbc builds.

The 700r4 idea would require getting advice from the person building it. I built the 700r4 I had behind a mild 489 in a 1980 Suburban I had for a couple of years. I sold it in 2007, the guy that bought it had me rebuild it last year. It lasted quite a while. Neither of us did much towing with it and didn't race it. As Moosecountry said a healthy rat can be a little too much. 2500-3000 converter. Behind a big block those numbers tend to be a little higher.

Hopefully this gets the ball rolling. The others that have more experience/knowledge may mention anything that doesn't add up correctly. The overall on this is based on the high likelihood of street friendly or mild gear ratio.

 

the 700r4 will not with stand a strong rat. if you have a crank and rods maybe shop for a 502 block?

 

1979Malibu, Thank you.
I have Made arrangements to exchange the crank and rods. I suspect it will take a week or so for the new crank and rods to get here.
I ordered steel a 4.25" stroke crank and a set of 6.385" rods.
The cost was negligible, about $100.
Next, let's talk about pistons and heads.

Again, Thank you.
KC

 

1979Malibu, Thank you.
I have Made arrangements to exchange the crank and rods. I suspect it will take a week or so for the new crank and rods to get here.
I ordered steel a 4.25" stroke crank and a set of 6.385" rods.
The cost was negligible, about $100.
Next, let's talk about pistons and heads.

Again, Thank you.
KC

You're welcome! I'm likely the least qualified guy on this discussion giving advice here and my hopes are that if things go in a direction less than ideal, someone will chime in with what would be better information. With the displacement of the engine in place, the heads and intake manifold are really the only things I think can be nailed down at present. We REALLY need to get specifics on the gear ratio and what rear tires you plan to run before the pistons, cam, carburetor and torque converter can be specified accurately.

I think the recommendation on the Brodix 270 oval port heads is spot on here. AFR makes a great 265 oval port. I don't have experience with Dart or Trick Flow and they make oval port heads in a similar size. Sometimes these things can be found used at a discount. I mention the used heads because you have time to look around. As you know from your machining days considering cost for any additional work the used heads may require must be considered. It's actually something to consider on new heads too. There isn't even a parallel universe version of me that will buy assembled heads and just bolt them on. Buying bare heads and working with the machinist doing your block or buying assembled heads (the Brodix and AFR have good hardware on the few that I've seen) with an inspection by the machinist seems to be a wash. I would go with the bare castings. You have control of everything that goes into them and will need to match the springs to the cam anyway.

With some of the wait time on the engine thing it would be a good idea to reach out to one or more of the transmission shops with a good reputation to get thoughts on running the 700r4. I used one with good results, but I only did it because I tinker with my own transmissions. If something went wrong I would have either tried again or went in a different direction. It makes sense to know what direction you will be going in order to consider everything in the big picture.

 

purpose of engine determines cr/heads/cam profile

 

"Least qualified"? No, I am not buying into that. I am truly grateful for your time and knowledge.
I had not considered the rear tires as of yet., but I will try to have answers on tires and gear ratio by end of today.
I do have several other projects going on during this time as well and if dad has something he needs done, I move him to the top of the list.
Today, I am rebuilding the shifter on his tractor as it has become difficult to get into gear.

BORE: Now that we are increasing the stroke and boring is already on the menu, how far will a G5 bore safely?
I have only bored G4's.
I see the RR 270 heads. Appears the 119 chambers are the only heads available BARE. Am I reading this correctly?
I have used Brodix long ago in the past, but only on a sbc application. I bought a new pair of IK200's. No issues for a bolt-on head.

I am familiar with the rebuilding of the 700R4 as I have done many. Again, this was long ago and have not rebuilt any tran's in the last 25 or so years.
If the 700 will not hold up, I will consider a plan B. I already own the 700.

Moosecountry, the purpose of the engine is for a street only pickup.
General driving with the occasional hard launch. Just something fun to drive.
Hi-speed driving is not on the menu as I rarely get above 60 mph unless driving across the country. This has happened very little since retiring.

The last street machine I put together was early 2000's. It was gone before 2008.

 

"Least qualified"? No, I am not buying into that. I am truly grateful for your time and knowledge.
I had not considered the rear tires as of yet., but I will try to have answers on tires and gear ratio by end of today.
I do have several other projects going on during this time as well and if dad has something he needs done, I move him to the top of the list.
Today, I am rebuilding the shifter on his tractor as it has become difficult to get into gear.

BORE: Now that we are increasing the stroke and boring is already on the menu, how far will a G5 bore safely?
I have only bored G4's.
I see the RR 270 heads. Appears the 119 chambers are the only heads available BARE. Am I reading this correctly?
I have used Brodix long ago in the past, but only on a sbc application. I bought a new pair of IK200's. No issues for a bolt-on head.

I am familiar with the rebuilding of the 700R4 as I have done many. Again, this was long ago and have not rebuilt any tran's in the last 25 or so years.
If the 700 will not hold up, I will consider a plan B. I already own the 700.

Moosecountry, the purpose of the engine is for a street only pickup.
General driving with the occasional hard launch. Just something fun to drive.
Hi-speed driving is not on the menu as I rarely get above 60 mph unless driving across the country. This has happened very little since retiring.

The last street machine I put together was early 2000's. It was gone before 2008.

One of the guys I meet up with on Friday nights is a 3rd generation machinist. I asked him the same question last night. He said he's never seen a gen 5 that wouldn't go .030" over and occasionally sees one that wouldn't go .060" over. He does .070" over routinely and regularly sees blocks that could go .100" over. Not in the same league as the gen 4.

The 119cc heads make sense as the ones that are available as bare castings. I don't know this, but I suspect they are all the same castings to start and are milled to the other chamber sizes. Then whatever they do for their CNC options, etc. I would start with them anyway. It pretty much opens up any piston option and if there is any gain to be made by the larger chamber unshrouding the valves a little better...we'll take it. A trivial thing to mention, if my suspicion is true on the milling, the decks would be slightly thicker.

Once the 700r4/4L60/4L60E went behind the LS engines the aftermarket support and higher power builds really took off. The tech and the information available makes for quite a bit of improvement there. I did the same thing you're talking about. I already had the 700r4 and went with it.

 

I did find some numbers over the weekend and the rear gears - 3.08, tire size 28-1/4" (p225/75-15).
The block is at the machine shop and waiting for the shop to call me.

 

Is the 700r4 you already have is the original to the '82 truck?

The low 1st gear (3.06:1) in the 700r4 helps to provide a nice 9.42:1 "starting line" ratio 3.08 rear X 3.06 transmission. For reference, the generalized chart that some folks use has you right in the neighborhood of where you would like to be with a 3500-4000 lb. vehicle with a 489/496. The 3.08 ratio with the 0.7:1 overdrive is going to result in a cruise RPM of 1600 to 1800 (depending on speed). With or without a lock up torque converter, performance engines aren't always "happy" there. It fit's with the theme of staying on the conservative side with cam selection.

If you consider adding more gear it could make traction a bigger problem. Having a traction problem to some degree will likely help some of the other parts survive better than they would with a dead hook. I don't know how many '82 trucks like yours came with limited slip differentials?

 

1979Malibu, Thank you for your time, assistance, and sharing your knowledge.
I do understand this takes time from other activities you may have planned.
For this, I am Grateful.

I have no idea if the trans is original as this truck was purchased from a complete stranger in another state.
The over-drive feature itself is not something I desire as I am sure hwy cruising will be nearly non-existent.

There is not much of it left, but I do have a "parts" chassis and it does have a rear assembly. I will take a look today and see what numbers it has.
I did not know limited slip was an option of the square bodies.

 

The extra rear has the same ratio as the rear in the truck. I guess I have a direct replacement waiting on me when I need it.

On a side note...
I did receive yesterday, an order of a piece of software (Desktop Dyno) to play with while configuring this engine, thinking this software may assist and save a headache or two.
Now... I am not so sure. I do admit, it is fun to play with, and maybe that is all it is good for as I do question the accuracy of this software based on - not enough information is asked during the engine configuration.
Some missing examples are - fuel octane, degreeing the cam, transmission information, etc.

When I enter the information of a 454 with the initial specifications I have come up with and the recommendations of the forum and 1979Malibu, I see a result of 586/559 hp/tq. @ 5,500 rpm.
Does anyone have any information on the accuracy of this (or any other) dyno software, or is it just another "toy"?
The machine shop does offer dyno services and I do intend to utilize these services upon completion of the build.
I suppose I will see accuracy at that time when comparing information.

Thanks
KC

 

The extra rear has the same ratio as the rear in the truck. I guess I have a direct replacement waiting on me when I need it.

On a side note...
I did receive yesterday, an order of a piece of software (Desktop Dyno) to play with while configuring this engine, thinking this software may assist and save a headache or two.
Now... I am not so sure. I do admit, it is fun to play with, and maybe that is all it is good for as I do question the accuracy of this software based on - not enough information is asked during the engine configuration.
Some missing examples are - fuel octane, degreeing the cam, transmission information, etc.

When I enter the information of a 454 with the initial specifications I have come up with and the recommendations of the forum and 1979Malibu, I see a result of 586/559 hp/tq. @ 5,500 rpm.
Does anyone have any information on the accuracy of this (or any other) dyno software, or is it just another "toy"?
The machine shop does offer dyno services and I do intend to utilize these services upon completion of the build.
I suppose I will see accuracy at that time when comparing information.

Thanks
KC View attachment 630516

I have no experience with any software dyno applications, but many find them very useful. It seems to match the overall idea of a build that peaks around 5500 RPM and a 6000 RPM shift point. A 228-230 @.050 roller cam in a 489/496 will be right in that area. The projected power numbers seem to fall in line with what someone could expect with a good tune on a 10.5:1 build. I'm not speaking for anyone else, but from the start of your inquiry I think some of the others on this discussion probably had something like this in mind. From there you could add a 150 hp nitrous kit pretty safely if you wanted a little more power in the future. I would think you will be pretty happy with it as is.

The rear end. You mentioned limited slip options on your truck and I have no idea if it was. I mentioned it because the rear end is 40 years old and could have about anything in it. With a 28" or so rear tire, I think we HAVE TO consider going to something like a 3.73:1 gear. A limited slip "posi" carrier here is a must. The tire size you have is what I think will keep you out of trouble. In this case, breaking the tires loose is far and away better than breaking something else.

If you're going to build a 700r4, do a Google search on identifying an auxiliary valve body version (late '87 to early '93) and identify which one you have. If you go by model years the '88 to '92 are safe bets because '87 and '93 were "transition years." The early '87 and older are not as strong and the '82 to '84 (likely the biggest reason the 700r4 has an ignominious reputation) being the least desirable. If you had a choice the '92 and early '93 are slightly improved in terms of hydraulic function, but any '88 to '92 model year will be equal in "strength."

 

I pulled the trigger on a gear/carrier/install kit today. I have a limited slip carrier and a set of 3.73 gears on their way.
It is a bit early, but I will have the parts when I am ready for install.
I am still tracking down parts for the trans.

A few days ago, I ordered a pair of engine cradles from Jegs and received them today as it seems I have engines laying everywhere and there is no question.... I need more organization.
When it comes to shopping, I am the worst and it is common for me to purchase the first item that fits my application instead of shopping for a better purchase.
Within the box of engine cradles Jegs tossed in a "June 2023" circular.
I thumbed thru the circular and came across SpeedMaster aluminum heads and I admit, the price was very attractive!
I can see these are economy heads but does anyone have experience with these heads? Are they a decent head to purchase?
Or do they fall into the category of "future buyers remorse waiting to happen"?
I am not interested in acquiring any for my current project but curious if they are a decent head, as I have never owned any, nor heard of them before.

Thanks
KC

 

I'm not sure how many places provide the offshore castings, but they are vastly improved compared to 15-20 years ago. At that time I knew a number of people that had valve seats fall out and/or leak coolant. The assembled versions had suspect hardware and guys had heads of valves come loose, quite a few broken springs and so on. That said, there were folks with good results starting with the bare castings and building those.

I think quite a few companies are using the same or similar castings for their 290 "oval" port heads. A copy of the AFR 290. It could be a really good deal. I haven't been involved in trying to go fast in recent years to know what experiences people are having.

The 3.73 gear is going to make 1st gear kinda short. With a 489/496 you weren't going to have traction on the street at wide open throttle with any rear gear ratio in 1st gear anyway. From what you described about how the truck will be used I think you're going to be better served by the cruising RPM the 3.73 and 28.5" tire. Pulling hills without shifting out of overdrive makes driving more pleasant and it will be nice to cruise up around 2000-2200 RPM with this combo. The numerically higher gear helps to mitigate the drop off between that low 1st gear and the shift to 2nd in a 700r4. It will drive more like the ratios are closer together. Your truck is going to be an absolute blast to drive!

 

If you want to look at decent lower budget heads look at ProMaxx or Flo-Tek.
The import casting they are using is a clone of the AFR 315.

Speedmaster is usable if bought bare or from a shop that knows to put a decent set of parts into.....but don't buy complete heads built by Speedmaster..... valves, springs , rocker studs, etc are rather crude looking

 

X2 on the ProMaxx. I have a set of their 185cc heads on the 385 in my S10. They are a really nice casting. I drive it every day and have never had a problem with them.

For some reason, I thought those companies were all copying the 290 head. They picked a good one to clone!

 

The stroker crank is scheduled to be delivered (to me) today. The rods are shipped from factory so no idea when they will arrive.
I will see if I can get the time to deliver the crank to the machine shop for balancing in a few days.
I never asked how long the turn-around time was for balancing, but I guess at this point - it doesn't matter.
I've not had any updates on the block either. Do not know if the shop has started machining or not.

I have been reading a bit on rockers and wonder which rockers have performed well for you?

KC

 

Hope the block checks out ok. Otherwise you'll have a lot of parts

 

There are uses for roller tip rockers in place of a stamped steel rocker, but this isn't one of them. A full roller rocker is required here. To be sure you get the correct ones, it's good to know the springs being used on the heads. Some are designed to clear certain diameter valve springs to avoid contact. I have Scorpion aluminum roller rockers with 8 years on them without any problems. I know others have done well with the steel ones too. In a street build, the weight of the rocker (and the valvetrain as a whole) is less of a concern. The higher RPM applications are where the lightweight stuff (aluminum, titanium, etc.) becomes necessary.

From a parts standpoint the waiting game is in play here. Getting the OK on the block and it's bore size and having the heads checked out to get a measurement of the combustion chambers guides the piston/cam selection. Which cylinder head you end up with will dictate valve timing events.

In the process of dealing with the machinist be sure to pick their brain as well. They are a tremendous resource for knowledge and acquiring parts.