[BarryK]

Its fact, I first herd about a year ago that there were problems
(health wise) Than the official announcement came about 4 weeks ago. Here the best part pricing on the replacement stuff is $100 a gallon (yellow sheet user price) Just saw that Thursday at warehouse.
It will be good six months before existing product runs out.

 

[BarryK]

Re: buffing problems

i can tell you one of the most effective compounds out there is the 3m perfect it 3 compound it is a very good all around compound , for many it will be their favorite which allows you to go from this rubbing compound directly to glazing in two simple steps without the normal mess of traditional compounds it is similar to the finess it 2 compound with a bit more agressive cut. used with the 3m white cutting pad you will acheive exellent results quickly and beautifully

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Hope you really like it! 3M is pulling all the #2 & #3 line.
off the market. Anounced last week.

 

[BarryK]

A couple of additional points to the above points.

The pads today are not like they use to be, white was your cutting period. Today the pad companies are making a lot of different pads with different cutting rates. Pads on how aggressive they cut is decided by the twisting of the wool and steaming process. So if you like to clean your pad with a screwdriver your unwinding the the twist and making the pad weaker. Throw it in the washing machine and same result.

First thing to do is go to jobber and see if he knows the difference in pads he sells buy the most aggressive one for first cutting and a medium cut one for 1500 or 2000 grit type compounds and than your foam for show if needed.

Swirl marks if buffed right are eliminated with the first aggressive buffing step. This is where most people make the mistake on black and dark color cars.
Assuming you wet sanded with 1500-2000, now use your course pad and your aggressive compound and buff a 1-3 foot section until the scratches are (TOTALLY) gone Than do the next 1-3 foot area until that whole panel is done and than the next most important thing is keep buffing over the whole panel until all that compound or glaze look left on the panel is gone, when done the panel should look like it was washed and dried. If this step is skipped you will be chasing the swirl marks for many more steps. By buffing the lite coating left you are breaking down the compound and it gives the same effect as going from say an 800 grit compound to a 1200-1500. - Note; As you doing this step let the buffer do the work, do not use force in this step (pushing down).
If done right 90 % of your swirl marks will be gone at this time.
Next step go to your medium cutting pad with your 1500-2000 grit type compound buff until no residue is left on panel as above.
Most shops at this point are done for everyday production work
of course the difference between everyday work and show work may be 6-7 more rounds of polishing and the use of many different grades of foam pads again going from rougher cut foams to finer in each step.
All the shops, I'm in, in a years time this is the one step (buffing)
people just try to make harder than it really is. Most of the problem lies with the compound manufacturers making way to many products, just to sell more and confusing everyone.

Also remember this, most true with high solid clears.
Next day after you paint do your wet-sanding ,than pull the car out in the sun for 1-2 hours. Pull back inside and let car cool to room temp and buff. It will cut your buff time in half.
This makes no difference if done on lacquer, or crap clears but on the high solids it s the best thing you can do.