I doubt your gonna use the stock crank from a 283 if you plan on winding it up.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

A Stock 283 crank is forged steel they will rev 8000 all day long. Don't listen to the negative Nancys. 283's are steel crank and love rpm. 7000 is not unheard of with stock bottom end. I am building one now with stock bottom end and camel back heads which I have run in the past! You can use 305 HO heads (boo) ported 1.94 camel back heads or possibly vortec heads. I have run 1.94 camel back and they clear. I just tried a 516 lift cam and it barely touched the clay on the pistons. I have run a 284/453 cam and it screamed but you must have deep gears like 4.56 or better. Look up old modified eliminator cars on the web. 600-750 carb.

 

If you are not concerned about intake bolt pattern and valve cover bolt pattern looking vintage....the L30 Vortec 305 cylinder head, last 3 digits of the casting number are "059", used on 1996-2001 305 engines, is going to be the best flowing small bore, small combustion chamber(58cc) stock head you can get.

Anything else stock is going to either flow less or have larger combustion chambers requiring you to use a domed piston just to get the compression ratio back up to stock levels.

I doubt your gonna use the stock crank from a 283 if you plan on winding it up.

All 283's prior to mid-late 1964 have Forged Steel cranks, only some of the last couple years it was offered '65-67 have cast cranks. if he's got a forged crank, it'll handle anything a naturally aspirated combination can spit out, even handle 5-8 lbs blower boost or 200HP nitrous hits.

 

Wow, I stand corrected, thanks because I hate giving out bad info wich is why I dont speak up often but enjoy the hell out of the masses of free education you can get on this forum.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

thanks .
Im not sure if the Vortec heads flow enough?
I was hoping there were some small chamber after market heads I dont know about? I understand Dart has a small chamber iron head. Does anyone know about an Aluminum head with small cc that flows, lets say 235 plus cfm?
I dont think the Vette heads flow enough either?

 

The vortec 305 heads don't flow anything near the "true" 350 vortec heads, but far better than other 305 heads.

I think you'll have real trouble finding heads to suit. The 283 is one of the least common performance platforms since 350s are a dime a dozen. I doubt anyone has taken the R&D and tooling time to make performance heads for an obsolete and small displacement version of the SBC.

Dart makes some 305 heads for roundy-round racing that might do the trick.

 

knotch block. ?

I think one of my older racers had to releive the top of the block for some heads he used. I don't have any details. And I don't know what pistons the ring was below the cut out. releiving the block was popular on ford flatheads but for better air flow.

 

An L31 in factory port trim will carry 283 kissing close to 8000 RPM. The 1.96x1.50 valve size will fit the 283 bore. You're going to need a piston with a little dome to dial the chamber size down. Whacking the block to zero piston clearance and milling the head will pump up the compression as well.

Dart or World also made a little iron head once upon a time, but most everything aftermarket is aimed at a 4 inch bore, which the old pre thinwall casting 283's will take a bore to 3.999, there were many a 302 built this way back in the day by punching the block an eighth inch.

Bogie

 

Here are the heads you need........

Trick Flow, #TFS30310002
Will fit 3.736" and larger bore
56 cc combustion chamber
1.940" intake valve, 1.500" exhaust valve
175cc intake runner, 67cc exhaust runner

Flow numbers......
0.100" lift 62/57
0.200" lift 127/109
0.300" lift 180/142
0.400" lift 219/167
0.500" lift 242/181 (maximum valve lift 0.540")
0.600" lift 245/192

https://www.trickflow.com/parts/tfs-30310002

https://www.summitracing.com/search...ylinder-heads?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword= TFS 30310002

Counsel with Trick Flow engineers as to best piston to use......1-330-630-1555 • 1-888-841-6556
Use the tallest compression height piston you can find, minimum 1.800" (makes 9.000" stack with 5.700" rod). Cut block decks to achieve zero deck, use composition head gasket 0.035" to 0.041" compressed thickness to prevent fretting of aluminum head. With zero deck, thickness of head gasket will describe squish/quench.

Skip White Performance has a deal with Wiseco pistons (a very old and trusted name in the industry, I used to run Wiseco forged pistons in my racing go-kart in the late 50's). They now make a piston with a taller compression height to prevent cutting the block decks so much to get to zero deck and make the squish/quench figure that you want with gasket thickness.
https://www.skipwhiteperformance.com/

.

 

For instance, cutting the block decks to zero with the crown of the piston and then using a Fel-Pro 1003 composition head gasket that compresses to 0.041" would yield a 0.041" squish/quench and provide maximum detonation protection for the motor. The composition construction of the gasket will all a little movement of the aluminum head in relation to the iron block and prevent fretting (wearing away of the aluminum material against the harder cast iron block surface). The cast iron block and the aluminum heads grow and shrink at different rates due to the different characteristics of the metals.

Anyway, a nice forged aluminum piston with a 6.0" rod such as the Scat Pro Stock line of rods might make the perfect little Junior Gas motor.

 

Thanks all. I got the info I need. Think I will buy the trick flows bare and use cam kit that matches the camshaft. Valves? not sure yet, if the trick flow valves are quality maybe get them with castings? I have the carb. Just need the car,lol.
Intake will be performer rpm or ? open plenum?
Cam solid
new balancer 302 style, will get the crank machined for a bolt.
Does the crank snout need to be smaller? press fit Vs bolt on?

 

Trick Flow uses quality valves, Ferrea if I remember correctly, at least the 195cc Super 23° heads did. But that was 11 years ago that I worked on those, so may be different now.

Even retro-fitted with a retaining bolt, the harmonic damper still needs to be a press-fit. If it is slip fit, it will hammer the key, wallow out the keyway groove and/or split the damper's neck....and be completely ineffective at cancelling crank harmonics.

Single plane , open plenum intake is going to be the wrong choice unless you are not caring how it will hurt power and torque below 5000 rpm and plan to spin it to the 8500 rpm area to make up for it.
I'd say Performer RPM or EPS.

 

The L30 305 Vortec head has 1.84"/1.50" valves, flows better at lower lifts and peaks about 5cfm better than a 1.94"/1.50" Camel Hump/Fuelie casting on the intake side....and is 30+ cfm better on the exhaust side. If you could happen to do a little porting and add 1.90" or 1.894" intake valves you could pick them up another 115-20 cfm and come up with a pretty decent head if you are limited to using a stock casting or need the small chamber for use with a flat top piston.

Flow info on a lot of SBC heads - stock and aftermarket, as cast or ported - is here:
Stan Weiss' - Cylinder Head Flow Data at 28 Inches of Water -- DFW / FLW Flow Files for use with Engine Simulation Software

If you want to go aftermarket and aluminum, besides the Trick Flow that Tech mentioned, Brodix also has a small chamber head, made for the 305 Sprint car market, called the RaceSaver head. Flow numbers for those seem to be impossible to find listed anywhere, as it is the spec head for the RaceSaver series..

Your piston choices are going to be rather limited unless you get a set custom made, since the 283 has pretty much been relegated to obsolete status there isn't a whole lot of companies offering an off-the-shelf piston anymore, beyond a flat top stock cast piece..
I'd suggest RaceTec/AutoTec if you go the custom route as they have very decent pricing. Similar cost to shelf stock pistons from other forged piston companies.
Since you plan to rev it up, I would recommend not using cast or cast hypereutectic pistons, use only forged.

Dart offers 180cc and 200cc intake runner, 49cc chamber Iron Eagle heads. It is just an angle milled, from 23° valve angle to 21° and then slightly flat milled, 64cc chamber head casting.

180cc is going to be plenty big or a 283 unless you intend to rev it above 8500 rpm.

 

The original Chevrolet intake manifold used on the '67-'69 Z28 302 motor (which was basically an over-bored 283) was a dual-plane, high-rise design which was cast up in aluminum by Winters Foundry for Chevrolet. The design was so good that Holley cast up a knock-off, Weiand cast up a knock-off and Edelbrock cast up a knock-off. The only one still in production is the Edelbrock Performer RPM, NOT THE AIR GAP, the original Performer RPM. The Air Gap model has shown to exhibit balking and bucking in the motor when driven in cold weather. This is likely due to the manifold being too cold to help atomize the fuel-air mixture on its way from the carburetor bores to the intake valve.

My choice would be the Edelbrock Performer RPM Spread-bore, part number 7104. It has a carb pad height of 4.720", providing a nice, long travel for the mixture that will deliver max power when fitted with a Cliff Ruggles Quadrajet and 14" diameter X 6" tall air cleaner system, so the motor can breathe.
https://cliffshighperformance.com/
Like one of these with another filter stacked on top of the first one and using a longer stud......
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Black-Inch-Round-Cleaner/dp/B01N9VXMNG

To top off the motor, I would call Davis Unified Ignition. They will build an HEI for you that is custom to the application....
https://performancedistributors.com/

.

 

Five years ago, when I bought my 1962 Chevrolet Bel Air with a 1968 Chevrolet 350 CI engine, the seller offered me the option to buy a nice GM Winters aluminum intake manifold with a oil fill tube from a 1969 Chevrolet Z28 302 CI DZ engine.. The seller wanted $250 for it, casting number 3932472.

The reasons I did not buy the 1969 Z28 intake manifold was because I would have to buy a 780 CFM Holley carburetor or use a adapter for my 800 CFM Rochester Q-jet. Since the Z28 intake manifold was a high rise design, the carburetor and air cleaner may not fit under my 1962 Chevrolet hood.

 

I have the 14044836 manifold and -71 780 cfm Holley, 186 double humps and z28/LT-1 valve covers waiting for a better times to come...

 

Side question:


Do you feel that, despite being down 22 inches, the 283 is better engine than the 305, performance potential-wise because of the 3.875 vs. 3.736 bore?

 

I do....you can put a lot better flowing head ion the 283.

For my own stuff though, I don't mess with these little peewee motors....anything short of stroking a 350 to 383 isn't worth the cost.
With the parts available today, a 7500 rpm 383 is easy enough to build....and their ain't a 283, 302, 327, 350 in the world that will compete with it on a dollar for dollar basis.

The money it will take to build a 380 Hp 283 will build a 550 Hp 383.
That's the only fact I need to see. :mwink:

 

The 283 will cost more than a more powerful 350 and Im well aware, thank you.
I originally considered the L-30 heads with a low lift (.420) road race cam. The heads that Techinspector1 posted gave me the idea that I could build a solid roller street cam (huge in a 283) and mathematically make 380 plus hp? I also set a budget of 7k Canadian, (about 5500 US) for the engine.


Mousefink, that intake you didnt buy, is it still available? I found one here but the fella wants $500 Canadian bucks for it.

 

Don’t understand your need for a 283 in this day and age. It is obsolete as a competing combo. Almost anything today is quicker. A big difference if you go to 301 with a 4” bore so there are more options. Breathing heads, unshrouded valves is also bore size related. As a street car cubic inches in a heavy 62 Chevy is a big plus. High winding is a path to short life. Unless mega expensive parts are employed.

High winding breaks big time when it does.

 

I sort of got the idea that he was interested in competing in the lower Gas classes, maybe D/Gas or E/gas. The Gasser venue is popular at a lot of drag strips.

 

That is a good thought. But he might be stronger in a smaller tri five or early chevy 2 if building a track car for gasser class. A 62 chevy is a lot of car. I’m not up on the class rules but wouldn’t a 301 be a better starting point for everything .......bore size, piston selection, 4 bolt block, valve size/shrouding, head flow?

 

He said in his opening post that he was looking for a '65 Acadian Or a Chevy II. I believe the Acadian is a Canadian Chevy II......
https://www.google.com/search?q=can...&oq=Acadian+canadian+&aqs=chrome.2.69i57j0l5.20778j1j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

 

And in post #14 he talks about the hood not fitting on the 62 Chevy. I’m not sure at all what’s his direction. I’m assuming he was not referring to a 62 Chevy 2 but a full size car like Belair.

But I had no knowledge of a Canadian Chevy 2.
Learn something everyday.

 

A 1965 Acadian would be a mix of a Pontiacish body on a Chevrolet chassis with some levels, but not all, of Chevrolet drivetrain available in the US.

Bogie

 

EricNova72, I do know a little about drag racing.
The ChevyII platform is shakey at best. Its light weight around 3200 pounds with V-8 and gas.
The rear leaf is a joke, made of wet spaghetti. The sub frames need to be tied. The lower control arms can twist. Under hard acceleration the front tires wiggle toeing in and out for a second or two. Other than that, not great.
plan was to use a Buick center link
weld plates to bottom control arms
Dont know if you can still buy hard wall cheater slicks? If not then use radial tires and drag radials. The Chevy II does not handle any better with radials than belted tires,lol.
will likely use steel wheels as I have a set of Acadian dog dish wheel covers.
Modified Lakewood traction bars. 50/50 rear shocks, not sure about front shocks?
If I run a standard, Ill run a 55 chevy style bell crank support and use a shaft out of a shock absorber for the clutch adjustment. Solid engine mounts because of the stock throttle linkage or a cable?
not sure about rad yet. They had down flow rads.

If I use an automatic trans I have no idea which one?

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=196...+invader&oq=Acadian+Invader&aqs=chrome.7.0l8.18484j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

this is what I want
In a post would be ideal

 

I test drove a red 64 Invader back in ‘72. 283 4 speed. More than enough motor to fry those stock D78x14’s.
Buddy had a 64 that he stuffed a L88 and m22 into. Used the biggest tire that would fit. G78’s!

 

I had a -65 Chevy 2 some 20 years ago, 283/4 speed Muncie, it was a fun car to drive.
283 is a great little engine, but i don`t understand why guys want to build them to max power.

 

You mentioning your car made me think of the 66 Chevelle w/283 I got my wife back years ago. Would be a nice car to have today.

 

Back in 1962, I was really put down by a girl driver in her 1956 Chevrolet Bel Air 2-door HT e/w a Powerglide automatic transmission. We raced at a local outlaw drag strip on three different occasions and she beat me every time. I had a 1956 Chevrolet Del Ray 2-door sedan with a 287 CI (+.030” os 283) . My 1956 Del Ray had a Duntov cam, 3-speed w/OD, Carter WCFB and 4.11 rear gears.

I later found out her 1956 Bel Air was equipped with a 1959 Chevrolet 301 CI (+.125” os 283) engine with a Carter WCFB and Power Pack heads. Even with a 301 CI engine in her Chevy, my Chevrolet should have won those races.

In 1963, I broke a valve spring in my 287 CI engine, and the engine swallowed the valve. What amazed me is that the motor was not damaged. I bought and installed a OTC (over the counter )Chevrolet 327 fuel injection fitted block with forged pistons from the local Chevrolet dealership and installed a GM 30-30 solid lifter camshaft and used 1962 double hump heads. In 1965, that engine went into my 1959 Impala with a 4-speed and 4.56 rear gears. I set a AHRA National Record at Penwell Drag strip near Odessa, Texas in F1-D/HR in my 1959 Chevrolet Impala in 1967. That was after I corrected the rear suspension with 40” ladder bars. The ladder bars would lift the whole. car about two inches when I launched the car with a pair of cheater slicks.

 

Back in 1962, I was really put down by a girl driver in her 1956 Chevrolet Bel Air 2-door HT e/w a Powerglide automatic transmission. We raced at a local outlaw drag strip on three different occasions and she beat me every time. I had a 1956 Chevrolet Del Ray 2-door sedan with a 287 CI (+.030” os 283) . My 1956 Del Ray had a Duntov cam, 3-speed w/OD, Carter WCFB and 4.11 rear gears.

I later found out her 1956 Bel Air was equipped with a 1959 Chevrolet 301 CI (+.125” os 283) engine with a Carter WCFB and Power Pack heads. Even with a 301 CI engine in her Chevy, my Chevrolet should have won those races.

Let me guess, you let her win because you wanted to date her, and you ended up marrying her?

 

So the OP is trying to build a 380HP 283... good luck with that... and then planning on hooking it up to an automatic... and plans on turning 8000RPM...

So, do any of the "experts" see any issues with this plan?
Even if he can get that HP, the trans is going to suck probably an extra 10% (?) so you're losing more of your hard-won ($$) HP than a manual trans.
Torque will be low on the 283 also, so AT will be lame.
Then, what's the max RPM of stock TH trans? I'm sure you'd have to upgrade some things at least.
So can you even get up to your Max HP?
If he had said "I want to make this just like a period SBC racer, with period factory parts, etc.", I'd say great, then put a 4-speed in it and have fun with your period-correct nostalgia racer.
However, this just sounds like a "I got these engines that nobody else wants, for free, so I'm going to spend a ton of money trying to build an engine that will put out mediocre power at best, and won't come close to meeting my mostly unfounded expectations, and is a lousy match for the trans, but it'll be the fastest 283 in the county(!), because nobody else in the county has a 283 for some reason... did I mention that I got them for FREE?!" situation.

Why would someone spend the same amount of money on a 283 that you would spend on a nice 425HP/450TQ (ish) 383?
If your goal isn't to "build a car just like Balls-Out Bob ran at the local strip back in the day", don't do it.
I've collected up all of the parts to build a pretty decent 383, and I expect to have about $5K total in it.
That's with a Dart SHP block, Scat Competition Series 6" rods, Scat cast internal balance crank, ProMaxx Aluminum heads, etc. Every part is brand new.
I could have saved some money on the block, if I went with a new GM 350 block, so you could save several hundred bucks there.
You could even put a milder cam and still get that 380HP, running on low octane gas, and with great street manners. TechInspector1 has detailed this type of 383 build on multiple occasions.

Anyway, it's a free country, but I'm just sayin'...

 

flawed post



your post is so full of flaws I dont know where to start?

Guys like you will be the ones I school with the tiny engine. Look up The "Chad Speirer " thread. Just slightly less cam and the heads Techinspector1 posted with the same math used, puts the 283 over 400 hp @ 7200 rpm. I took another 6% off because of the 3.935" bore. Then I rounded down to 380 hp.

I dont see where I posted using an auto trans. Im well aware an auto trans like a t400 uses up to 40 hp. Thats why I said if I use an auto I dont know which trans I will use. If its a standard I will consider the 6 speed out of the new 5 liter mustang if it fits, which also matched very well with 4.3 gears in a high revving 283.
Check my math? Show my mistakes?
Maybe someone has a dyno sim and we can run my numbers?

 

Originally posted by Moosecountry
.....new balancer 302 style, will get the crank machined for a bolt.
Does the crank snout need to be smaller? press fit Vs bolt on?

Isn't there more to a balancer than random selection?

Have a look at the tech paper on the BHJ website.

 

yes



The 283 doesnt even need a balancer but it does need something for the pulleys to attach to. Using a bigger balancer gives you a little reciprocating weight that can be used to store energy.