Type A was the original spec, and Dexron III is the current rated equivalent .. Don't have any info on that trans gotcha's tho.

 

Those old blisters were not that fussy on fluid types.


It is a straight forward process to replace the pan gasket.

Unscrew the filler tube. Remove the pan bolts.

Make sure the bolt holes aren't pushed out of shape.
Clean the pan and sit it on a bench with the bolt holes down.

Look for any light visible. Keep flattening the pan until is is straight.

No need for any sealant on the gasket.
Tighten the bolts evenly to about 10ft pounds.

 

Thanks, guys. I have a new gasket on hand.

This looks to be straightforward.

The service manual says I'll need 5 quarts and instructs me to drain the converter as well. There are two drain plugs and an access panel.

I'll be changing the oil as well; might as well grease the suspension fittings while I'm at it.

The service intervals on these older cars don't seem to be very long.

 

Probably 3 1/2 quarts in the pan.

 

Probably, but it has an access panel and a drain plug in the converter.

So I might as well do that while I'm there.

 

Yes older cars had a drain plug in the torque converter. I wish they did today. Get the fluid hot and drain converter and remove pan. I have an old gas tank with the top cut off for a catch pan. Works great, avoids big mess.

 

I have read that you can drill an 1/8" hole in a modern torque converter, drain the fluid and plug the hole with a pop-rivet. True?

 

That works provided you don't drill into the lockup clutch.

You would be looking for the a s s kicking tree.


You are much better off disconnecting a return cooler line fitting, adding fluid and pumping it through until it runs clean.