Custom Street Rod Door from Scratch by Jeff Lilly
We all know that some body styles just do not look the way we would like and some alterations are needed to "
get rid of the ugly part" as one would say . It is often necessary to custom build a part to achieve the
desired goal. In this particular case we changed the roof line of this 46 Woody and the original car had four
doors made of wood which was rotted. A Custom 2 door unit was in order and we needed a strong structural unit
that would also hold the wooden outer trim pieces.
In this article we will show you the down and dirty "Wood" on how we did it.
1. We start by making a paper board template of the door opening. We will make any adjustments needed as the
door progresses.
![Image]()
2. We took 18-gauge cold rolled steel and cut a 2-inch strip. We then bent it on our Tenn Smith sheet metal
brake to form a 90-degree angle piece measuring 1 x 1 inch. Using our Mittler Bros Power stretcher/shrinker
we fabricated the piece to fit around the confines of our template/guide and then tweaked it to perfection by
fitting against the actual door opening. This is the inner section of the door perimeter.
![Image]()
3. Bending another strip of sheet at a 90-degree angle to a 1 x 2 inch this time we also used the shrinker
tool to form the outer perimeter of the door. Holes are punched in the inner structure along the horizontal
flange for welding purposes and then the outer flange is slipped over the inner and checked for fit. This
allows adjustment for the door width.
![Image]()
3. B. Laid out on a table we check our pieces for exact fit on our template. A little more tweaking and we
are ready to rock!
![Image]()
4. Our inner and outer pieces are starting to look like two halves do make a "Right" -- door that is! We held
it up against the Woody and she looked great so on we go.
![Image]()
4. B. The inner and outer perimeter is now clamped together and the bottom section of the door is then welded
together where the holes were punched in.
![Image]()
5. The door frame is then placed back on the car to check the fit and locate the proper hinge placement. It
is then marked exactly at the hinge plate attaching points. We used the original woody hinges as they were
small and in nice shape. With the wood trim installed they will be completely covered and undetected.
![Image]()
6. After we established the hinge location we used a small hole saw to drill a radius at the corners. We then
use a cut off wheel and remove the remaining metal to complete the cutouts.
![Image]()
7. A “stair step” holder to back up the threaded fastener plate was fabricated with a front cover featuring
access holes to install, remove or loosen the allen head bolts to adjust the door for precise fit.
![Image]()
8. The frame is then fitted with the hinges along with the fastener plate and holder. After exact placement
we welded it all in place. We now have a swinging door. Sweeeet-
![Image]()
9. 20 gauge steel is laid out for a lower support beam. We have it marked and ready to bead roll some
strengthening grooves to stiffen up the door assembly.
![Image]()
10. The guys roll out ½ beads on the inner and outer panel using our 36-inch bead roller. Just follow the
marker lines and it is done with no warpage.
![Image]()
11. A The panels are then bent on the Tenn Smith brake to fit one inside the other. The 90 degree lips will
provide the fit.
![Image]()
11. B. These two pieces will form the rectangular beam and will stiffen up the door nicely and allow
attaching points for a power window system etc.
![Image]()
12. Our stiffening tube was spot welded together. We then cut out the back half of the tube on each end to
install into the door to enable us to stitch weld in place on the ends.
![Image]()
13. A. At this point we then cut out strips of 20 gauge and laid them out for 2 qty pieces, which were then
bent at 90 degrees. Two channels will now be welded together to form the rear portion of the window channel.
This is where the rear edge of the glass will slide up and down.
![Image]()
13. B. Using 1/2 inch square tubing as a form for our desired width the two sections will now be clamped in
place to be welded. This is the exact width needed for track glide material on both sides, yet keeping 3/16
laminated flat glass tightly supported and still running smooth up and down.
![Image]()
14. We weld it all up while clamped in place then allow to cool .
![Image]()
15. To show you the exact location we fit the channel in to the driver side rear door edge. As seen it allows
ample clearance for our door catch which we will mount at the end of this article. We will now install and
weld this channel into our passenger side door.
![Image]()
16. We now build unique shaped channels that are two inches on one side, and one inch on the other side. We
also bent a small lip on the two inch side to support the outer door panel and inner interior panel on their
respective pieces. This is the "Window Sill" where your arm would make contact if you had it resting on the
door while cruzing.
![Image]()
17. A. We first install the inside window sill to the door frame and tack welded it in place. Note the holes,
these will be used to retain the window fuzzys, which will also make slight contact with the glass inside and
outside allowing a smooth glide against the full width of the glass.
![Image]()
17. B. As seen we trial fit our window fuzzys and cut them to length for mock up to be sure everything works
correctly.
![Image]()
18. We built another channel and pie cut one section (see white arrow) to allow our overall width of the side
glass. We shrank the upper section (see red arrow) to match our curved roof line. As seen at the (black
arrow) this channel needs to be lengthened to the very bottom door brace to complete the front side channel
and support the glass through its complete movement. This section needs to be removable to service the door
if the power window mechanisms or glass ever need replacing. See caption 24-25-26
![Image]()
19. For mock up purposes we installed 3/16ths wood as our temporary glass to check our fit. You can also use
3/16th lexan but it is more expensive After we install the outer window sill section we will check for proper
clearance and then tack weld all the channels in place.
![Image]()
20. We open up the door and as seen the outer sill is now welded in place with our finished width determined
and the overhang or excess top window channel is being cut off.
![Image]()
21. After taper is achieved and the inner and outer door frames are spot welded together the top window
channel is tack welded together also. We then slide the plywood and channel up and down to check alignment.
All is good so we go on to the next phase.
![Image]()
22. The materials are laid out for the upper power window motor support panel/beam. We will drill holes and
add our support plates. This will also act as a support beam.
![Image]()
23. Qty of 2 - 1 wide x 1/8 thick flat bolt bars in stainless are fabricated for the power window regulator.
They are then spot welded to the upper support panel/beam.
![Image]()
24. Threaded inserts and a custom two-way bracket keep the bottom of the removable front channel discussed in
caption #18 in place.
![Image]()
We all know that some body styles just do not look the way we would like and some alterations are needed to "
get rid of the ugly part" as one would say . It is often necessary to custom build a part to achieve the
desired goal. In this particular case we changed the roof line of this 46 Woody and the original car had four
doors made of wood which was rotted. A Custom 2 door unit was in order and we needed a strong structural unit
that would also hold the wooden outer trim pieces.
In this article we will show you the down and dirty "Wood" on how we did it.
1. We start by making a paper board template of the door opening. We will make any adjustments needed as the
door progresses.
2. We took 18-gauge cold rolled steel and cut a 2-inch strip. We then bent it on our Tenn Smith sheet metal
brake to form a 90-degree angle piece measuring 1 x 1 inch. Using our Mittler Bros Power stretcher/shrinker
we fabricated the piece to fit around the confines of our template/guide and then tweaked it to perfection by
fitting against the actual door opening. This is the inner section of the door perimeter.
3. Bending another strip of sheet at a 90-degree angle to a 1 x 2 inch this time we also used the shrinker
tool to form the outer perimeter of the door. Holes are punched in the inner structure along the horizontal
flange for welding purposes and then the outer flange is slipped over the inner and checked for fit. This
allows adjustment for the door width.
3. B. Laid out on a table we check our pieces for exact fit on our template. A little more tweaking and we
are ready to rock!
4. Our inner and outer pieces are starting to look like two halves do make a "Right" -- door that is! We held
it up against the Woody and she looked great so on we go.
4. B. The inner and outer perimeter is now clamped together and the bottom section of the door is then welded
together where the holes were punched in.
5. The door frame is then placed back on the car to check the fit and locate the proper hinge placement. It
is then marked exactly at the hinge plate attaching points. We used the original woody hinges as they were
small and in nice shape. With the wood trim installed they will be completely covered and undetected.
6. After we established the hinge location we used a small hole saw to drill a radius at the corners. We then
use a cut off wheel and remove the remaining metal to complete the cutouts.
7. A “stair step” holder to back up the threaded fastener plate was fabricated with a front cover featuring
access holes to install, remove or loosen the allen head bolts to adjust the door for precise fit.
8. The frame is then fitted with the hinges along with the fastener plate and holder. After exact placement
we welded it all in place. We now have a swinging door. Sweeeet-
9. 20 gauge steel is laid out for a lower support beam. We have it marked and ready to bead roll some
strengthening grooves to stiffen up the door assembly.
10. The guys roll out ½ beads on the inner and outer panel using our 36-inch bead roller. Just follow the
marker lines and it is done with no warpage.
11. A The panels are then bent on the Tenn Smith brake to fit one inside the other. The 90 degree lips will
provide the fit.
11. B. These two pieces will form the rectangular beam and will stiffen up the door nicely and allow
attaching points for a power window system etc.
12. Our stiffening tube was spot welded together. We then cut out the back half of the tube on each end to
install into the door to enable us to stitch weld in place on the ends.
13. A. At this point we then cut out strips of 20 gauge and laid them out for 2 qty pieces, which were then
bent at 90 degrees. Two channels will now be welded together to form the rear portion of the window channel.
This is where the rear edge of the glass will slide up and down.
13. B. Using 1/2 inch square tubing as a form for our desired width the two sections will now be clamped in
place to be welded. This is the exact width needed for track glide material on both sides, yet keeping 3/16
laminated flat glass tightly supported and still running smooth up and down.
14. We weld it all up while clamped in place then allow to cool .
15. To show you the exact location we fit the channel in to the driver side rear door edge. As seen it allows
ample clearance for our door catch which we will mount at the end of this article. We will now install and
weld this channel into our passenger side door.
16. We now build unique shaped channels that are two inches on one side, and one inch on the other side. We
also bent a small lip on the two inch side to support the outer door panel and inner interior panel on their
respective pieces. This is the "Window Sill" where your arm would make contact if you had it resting on the
door while cruzing.
17. A. We first install the inside window sill to the door frame and tack welded it in place. Note the holes,
these will be used to retain the window fuzzys, which will also make slight contact with the glass inside and
outside allowing a smooth glide against the full width of the glass.
17. B. As seen we trial fit our window fuzzys and cut them to length for mock up to be sure everything works
correctly.
18. We built another channel and pie cut one section (see white arrow) to allow our overall width of the side
glass. We shrank the upper section (see red arrow) to match our curved roof line. As seen at the (black
arrow) this channel needs to be lengthened to the very bottom door brace to complete the front side channel
and support the glass through its complete movement. This section needs to be removable to service the door
if the power window mechanisms or glass ever need replacing. See caption 24-25-26
19. For mock up purposes we installed 3/16ths wood as our temporary glass to check our fit. You can also use
3/16th lexan but it is more expensive After we install the outer window sill section we will check for proper
clearance and then tack weld all the channels in place.
20. We open up the door and as seen the outer sill is now welded in place with our finished width determined
and the overhang or excess top window channel is being cut off.
21. After taper is achieved and the inner and outer door frames are spot welded together the top window
channel is tack welded together also. We then slide the plywood and channel up and down to check alignment.
All is good so we go on to the next phase.
22. The materials are laid out for the upper power window motor support panel/beam. We will drill holes and
add our support plates. This will also act as a support beam.
23. Qty of 2 - 1 wide x 1/8 thick flat bolt bars in stainless are fabricated for the power window regulator.
They are then spot welded to the upper support panel/beam.
24. Threaded inserts and a custom two-way bracket keep the bottom of the removable front channel discussed in
caption #18 in place.
