Without a degree wheel, you don't know the cam is installed correctly to your ICL, so then advancing or retarding really becomes a guess which is usually not a good thing. Furthermore, when it comes time to check P to V, unless you clay it, you'll need a degree wheel anyway unless you have 5, 10, and 15 noted on your balancer for BTDC and ATDC. Lastly there is no greater way to establish TRUE TDC without a degree wheel. I'll also note, thanks to Tech's info a few months ago, that many cams already come 4 degrees advanced to compensate for people who want to advance to much in the first place. Why do you feel the need to advance full max?

 

Without a degree wheel, you don't know the cam is installed correctly to your ICL, so then advancing or retarding really becomes a guess which is usually not a good thing. Why do you feel the need to advance full max?

I heard from a not so reliable source you can bring peak power down into super low rpms by advancing the cam... I have read all over it does help but how much? I am looking to get peak hp and torque around 4000 rpm. I was trying to get down to 36-3800 rpms but found a prop I can turn 4000 rpm today.

Pretty excited actually. I know these engines can make decent power but they need rpms to make it. If degreeing the cam can drop the power band down 8-900 rpms, i am about it.

 

Advancing the cam will pick up some torque at lower RPM but you lose HP doing it. It doesn't bring the same HP to a lower level. It can make the car more drivable at low RPM but you lose HP doing it.
Usually, not always, if you have too much cam that you need to advance it 6 degrees you would be better off with a milder grind.
There are exceptions to this rule but they apply to specific applications.