Sure. As long as nothing got in any holes (exhaust, intake, spark plug holes). Don't fire it unless you first take out the distributor and prime the oil pump (with fresh oil in the pan of course). Then turn it over gently by hand to make sure its all free. You might want to take the opportunity to replace valve cover gaskets and oil pan gaskets while its out - maybe the rear main seal and timing cover seal as well. They tend to dry out and crack and you might have a real leaker if you don't.

If the carb wasn't stored properly, it could use a rebuild as well. (if you're going to use it). New gaskets and a cleanout of all the passages will make things run right. Old gas turns to varnish, and dust and other junk make their way in. I've pulled a lot of carbs apart to find flaky dried varnish or maple syrup in the bowls. Also expect to need a new fuel pump.

99% of what can happen to an engine in storage is external stuff. There is a rare possibilty that moisture made its way into the cylinders and caused rust, but that is why you turn it by hand first. You can even try it on a known good engine so you know what it should feel like.

 

A shot of light oil like WD40 down the spark plug holes would be a nice touch before you try and turn the old dog over.

 

Thanks for the tips guys!

The engine is off a L98 camaro I picked up 2 years ago. This summer I took off the TPI on top of the engine and used bags etc to seal up the empty holes left by the intake (Never thought I would need the engine). Wow its good to hear this might be useable as money is beyond tight.

 

Are you for real !!! This is a Hot Rod site, and every Hot Rodder's always builds the darn engine first, then have to wait years before the build is done. That of-coarse means the engine just sits there patiently waiting for the fateful day. Just keep oil in the pan, so rust don't form. It would be great if people could turn the engine over every once and awhile to lubricate the cylinders, and allow other parts a oil bath, but it never happens. So, before you go to fire her up, make sure the valve cover come off, and the plugs out. Apply a liberal use of oil to the cam, valves, lifters and so fourth. Then kill the ignition and turn over the engine. With the plug's out, it should turn over pretty easy. Spray some lube into the cylinders first to help. You can run a quick compression check, once the battery is back to full charge, this would give you a very quick condition of many of the internal parts. If the engine can be primed, then by all means use a drill motor or pressurized supply to prime the engine, both before you turn it over and just prior to starting.

Have fresh fuel in the tank, and double check the oil level. Don't bother changing the oil if is has just been setting, but otherwise OK, you can change it latter after the engine has been run and been kept at temperature for some time. I would installl a new foil filter tho, they can disolve when letf in oil to long, so it's good and cheap insurance. Put it back together, and let it rip. If you don't have a electric fuel pump, yo will probably have to prime the system.

 

Good advice from the other posters, but I will add one thing...If the motor was a running motor and had not had an oil change before it was stored, I would check is the seals and bearings. Easy to do with the motor out.

The reason is, that if the motor had some wear and the oil left in it was dirty, the combustion byproducts suspended in the oil can and will corrode metal. Particularly the journals where seals ride. I had a motor stored for a couple of years with dirty oil and had to have the crank ground because the dirty oil on the bearings and seals left an imprint on the journals.



Later, mikey

 

Thanks for the advice guys, I am further reading up on everything that everyone mentioned. I have never turned an engine over by hand.

Oil in the engine was def old. I should have thought proper storage at the time since the engine was working and all.

I am assuming the engine can be turned over by hand and not have to have an intake on it. Anyone point out any web links with good tutorials I can read up on?

 

proper oiling

I agree with what everyone else has said, about the new oil, priming the system, wd40 in the plug hole ect.... I don't know if anyone has mentioned it yet, But probably the biggest concern is the cam. I have my own little method for this that has never failed me yet. Others might do the same thing but I've never seen anyone do this except me. I'm not really sure if its all necessary, but I like to be safe rather then sorry.
1. Get a good quart size funnel with a handle and attach a piece of hose about 24" long to it with a hose clamp. Walmart sells these with the hoses already on them, for funneling Gas and stuff.
2. Remove distributor, and turn oil pump shaft with a long flathead bit in a drill. I made one by welding an old pushrod to a broken screwdriver head. Some actually use an old broken distrubutor and weld a bolt on to where the rotor should be, This works better cuz your oil pump shaft is supported and not just floppin around in there.
3. mix 1/2 a qt. of lucas stabilizer with 1/2 quart oil (your choice) but If its a F/T cam I wouldn't recomend synthetic. Mix together in funnel and stick the hose down the distributor hole bending it so it goes all the way to the front of the lifter valley.
4. open the funnel and gradually let the oil come out moving the hose back every few seconds till you get to the back of the lifter valley and the funnel is empty. Now you've got lucas and oil all over your cam, so the risk of a dry start and shaving a lobe off is reduced.. I personally like to spin the motor over and repeat this process, but its up to you...

if you would like you could always just pull the intake and pour the mixture in the lifter valley directly. The lucas is just a personal choice cuz I think it stick to the engine components better than oil alone, whic in turn = better lubrication.
Good luck, Danny

 

Hi guys,

I was wondering if an engine that hasn't been turned on in 2 years is still usable?

A couple of little blue pills in the gas tank should help, maybe a Playboy magazine. :thumbup:



Larry

 

I just started a fresh build 350 sbc and rebuilt turbo 350 that has been stored for 6 years. Edelbrock rpm motor.

Just oil primed and filled the trans and converter with atf and fired it up. It stared right away and we set the timing and away it runs. Purrs like a kitten. 150 psi across the board and less than 2% leak down.