If you can get it to idle some, remove the air cleaner and shine a light in the carbs throat, if you see fuel pouring out of the boosters you have a fuel pressure issue. Recheck the spark timing, make sure the distributor hasn`t moved.

 

Well guys here is an update. I changed all my plugs and I tried to keep it running and it did the same thing. Well I thought it might be the carb just giving me fits so I swaped out my edelbrock 600 and put my old edelbrock 750 back on. Well it ran fine for a few but then after that it did the same dam thing and no there is no fuel pouring into the carb while its running so its not floading over or anything. So carb can be ruled out. I am going to swap out my control moudule in my hei and see if that is the culprit. It should be fine cause the distributor is brand new but you never know. What kind of issues can a control module do if it goes bad? If that does not pan out then I will put it back in and try another coil. The timing is still fine cause I have the distributor marked. Well guys hope some more tips can be posted here on what else to check. Thanks DV for suggestions.
ERic

 

I dont think it would be a spark plug issue. Sounds like 1 of 2 things, either it is running out of fuel or the module is heating up and dieing. when it dies look in the carb while pumping it a few times to see if there is any fuel squirting. You could also try squirting a little fuel into the carb when it is starting to die to see if it will stay running. Be careful if you do this as a backfire could be catastrophic.
Make sure you dont have a twisted or pinched fuel line.
When it dies does it start right back up.

 

Hello guys sorry to bother again but my bad luck just keeps getting worse with my new build. My chevy 350 engine won't stay running. Specs, sbc 350 with edelbrock 600 performer carb. rpm performer intake and world product sportsman 2 heads. Hei ignition is brand new and has worked flawless and the spark plugs wires are new as well and also my timing is set at 14 degrees at idle.

The edelbrock 600 I have tuned it pretty well with my calibration kit and I used a vacuum gauge to do some with as well. It did idle just fine and went into gear and cruised just fine but seemed a little lean on acceleration so I went up one step from stock on the metering rods to 4 percent richer. Nothing has been changed except that. It was doing just fine last week but my plugs where acdelco 44ts or 45 cant remember but I try to start it and it just wants to quit all of a sudden and this week got worse. I am running a stock mechanical fuel pump and fuel pressure is no more then 6 psi.

I started it up cold and it would run as long as I give it some gas but it has to be steady and at least 2000 or more rpm and if I gave it some more its like it just wants to bog way down and die. I hooked up my vacuum gauge when it would stay and idle and it was smooth at 14/15 inches of vacuum. Have checked all of my fittings spraying carb cleaner and no vacuum leak and was good on the gauge. It will idle just fine at certain times and after about 10 seconds or so it will slowly begin to die out on me unless I give it some gas and it then will start to bog after that. I was told that my acdelco plugs are to cold and need to go to autolite 26 ones and that could be my problem. Any more suggestions on what it could be?

I know you say that you have checked vacuum at idle but it could still be a vacuum issue, possibly at the brake booster if you have power brakes. I would try removing the brake booster vacuum line and plug it temporarily to rule the brake booster out. Just a thought.

 

I like vacuum for this too. Check all your hoses for cracks and remove and check your fittings for bad threads. Retape them with Teflon and try again. It's probably not fittings, like you said with the carb cleaner, and the fact that it persists with a different carb, but it can't hurt to be thorough. And maybe you'll find a cracked hose in the process..

I was initially thinking vacuum then accelerator pump. But again, if it didn't change with a new carb it's probably not that.. It really sounds like a vacuum leak tho.. Let us know what you find!

 

Don`t entirely rule out the carb either if the other checks come out okay. It can also flood out of the idle circuits and you don`t even know it, the only way to tell is when you shut the engine down and white smoke begins to pour out of the carb. I don`t like edelbrock carbs, and when a friend of mine ran one I wouldn`t get the fuel pressure on it over 5 lbs, anything over that it didn`t like.

 

Shouldn't that vacuum be more like 20 or higher? You didn't say anything about what cam you have.

 

I don`t like edelbrock carbs

2nd that. In fact I have a couple in a trash can :smash:

 

Ok well I have checked all my lines they are all new. Everything has been bought new wich I know still means nothing. I have a nice holley 670 street avenger waiting to be put on but I don't want to put it on till I find out whats wrong with it.I will try the brake booster thing and yes when I shut it off its hard getting it to start again the only time I can keep it running is I get it up to about 2500 rpm and just hold it steady but sometimes it will just die then after that as well. The fuel lines are in good order too cause its all new I just replaced everything with this truck and its been a nightmare from hell. I wll try a different control module tomorrow and go from there and also some of the suggestions on here.
Thanks again guys
Eric

 

Not trying to be a smart a**, but you didn't leave the longer bolt in the front of the block to hold the fuel pump rod up, did you?

 

No I don't have the hole that goes clear through the block like the older ones do. Mine is a newer one piece seal and it was sealed up from the casting. Pump was installed correctly etc and its a new pump and it has been checked and it's doing fine and pressure is normal. Going to go outside now and check some other things too see if I can get it running again. Will post later and state what I find. Yeah and also 14/15 inches of vacuum at idle is normal I have a bigger then stock cam.
Eric

 

try the coil. u have ruled out the carb by now.. i am guessing coil or module.. u probably have a spare laying around

 

Ok guys after messing around with all type of things and checking this and that etc here is my update.I first replaced the module. Well what a difference it would stay running for the time being. I placed a mark to realign the distributor back to where it should be for timing wise.

Well I took it out for a test drive and it was fine at certain spots and man it would just miss and back fire here and there. Well I figured since I replaced a stock control module with a proform performance one the stock coil could not handle it ( forgive me if it sound stupid I am just learning here) so I took out my old proform 50000 volt coil and redcap that worked fine on my old truck and put it on. Well it fixed the missing problem for the time being and it ran fine but the stupid edelbrock 750 seemed like it wanted to give fits.

So I got out my new holley 670 street avenger and got it all hooked up and started my truck up. Well everything was fine for the start up and I had to get the idle to around 900 rpm and it held fine. Well I took it out for a test drive and it wanted to back fire here and there and had some misses. I don't thinkg if it was too lean that it would do all that.

The stupid edelbrock's did that as well so all three carbs can't be the issue here. Well after taking it out a few times it is at again not wanting to hold an idle very well and will run ok for a short time then all of a sudden it just wants to die off. Some times it will quit right off and other times it will run for a while. I have checked all vacuum fitings of what I have and all the hoses are brand new and have no holes in them. This dam thing ran like a top a few weeks ago. We took out the motor to seal up the rear main seal and oil pan and that was it. Put it back in two weeks ago and it ran fine. I just started all of these issues a week ago when I tried to take it too work one day and bam just one issues after another. Not wanting to keep idle running eratic etc. I looked at the fuel bowl level on the holley carb and the front was a little too high and the rear bowl was about mid way. I don't figure that could be all my problems since that would only cause flooding. Well guys any more things I might look for electrical wise? I have everything new, fuel pump, alternator, new plug wires and spark plugs. Replaced the coild cap and control module from a previous hei I used and it was in excellent working order the last time I used it.
Thanks
Eric

 

Ok guys after messing around with all type of things and checking this and that etc here is my update.I first replaced the module. Well what a difference it would stay running for the time being. I placed a mark to realign the distributor back to where it should be for timing wise.

Well I took it out for a test drive and it was fine at certain spots and man it would just miss and back fire here and there. Well I figured since I replaced a stock control module with a proform performance one the stock coil could not handle it ( forgive me if it sound stupid I am just learning here) so I took out my old proform 50000 volt coil and redcap that worked fine on my old truck and put it on. Well it fixed the missing problem for the time being and it ran fine but the stupid edelbrock 750 seemed like it wanted to give fits.

So I got out my new holley 670 street avenger and got it all hooked up and started my truck up. Well everything was fine for the start up and I had to get the idle to around 900 rpm and it held fine. Well I took it out for a test drive and it wanted to back fire here and there and had some misses. I don't thinkg if it was too lean that it would do all that.

The stupid edelbrock's did that as well so all three carbs can't be the issue here. Well after taking it out a few times it is at again not wanting to hold an idle very well and will run ok for a short time then all of a sudden it just wants to die off. Some times it will quit right off and other times it will run for a while. I have checked all vacuum fitings of what I have and all the hoses are brand new and have no holes in them. This dam thing ran like a top a few weeks ago. We took out the motor to seal up the rear main seal and oil pan and that was it. Put it back in two weeks ago and it ran fine. I just started all of these issues a week ago when I tried to take it too work one day and bam just one issues after another. Not wanting to keep idle running eratic etc. I looked at the fuel bowl level on the holley carb and the front was a little too high and the rear bowl was about mid way. I don't figure that could be all my problems since that would only cause flooding. Well guys any more things I might look for electrical wise? I have everything new, fuel pump, alternator, new plug wires and spark plugs. Replaced the coild cap and control module from a previous hei I used and it was in excellent working order the last time I used it.
Thanks
Eric

Bad tank of gas maybe?
Water in the gas?

 

Well thought of that and I put some new gas in the tank today and put new gas in just a week and a half ago. I am going to drop the fuel tank next Sunday and make sure that the old electric pump was taking out of the tank and am replacing a lot of my fuel line to make sure I am getting enough fuel supply. After that I am going to check my electrical connections to make sure I am getting a constant supply of 12 volts to coil and make sure I have enough ground etc. Will post and let you guys know what I come up with. Everything ran fine before and nothing was changed and now all of a sudden all this Well thanks for suggestions
Eric

 

check ground strap from engine to firewall ?
Wire pinched between bell housing and block?
Green wire to tach from dist. grounded intermittently through firewall?
Loose ign. fuse in fuse block?
All wires loomed away from clutch linkage?
First it doesn't then it does, then it doesn't then it does. something intermittent is messing with your head!
I feel your anxiety, pain, and anger. Been there done that. Problem is, when you find it, It's going to pi** you off because you didn't find it earlier. Probably cost less to fix than what you've spent in time and money already.
Example: I lost third gear in my 4x4 back in may, Missed all summer 4 wheelin'
Bought a rebuilt tranny and was dreading the change with the transfer, and it turned out to be a governor which I had on the bench from an old tranny. Now i'm out 300 bucks sitting on the floor doing nothing!
This is all I can think of right now. We'll figure it out eventually

 

Well all wires have been checked. The ground strap is fine from my battery to the side of my motor mount. The green tach wire I have going through the fire wall is fine and the fuse is fine in my fuse box. I have no wires inched between my bell housing and my 350 turbo tranny. Also sqzbox sorry to hear what you went through mand I would be pissed too. If it makes you feel any better I could not get my ford thunderbird to start so I left it sit for two days and had to have my wife take me to work and spent the other time to work on my truck and then made some time for it Sunday morning and checked the battery conections etc and the battery was checked a few months ago and recommended replace it so I did that Sunday and after hookup it still did not turn over and I thought man now what. Well I looked over and I left the car in drive lol I felt like an idiot but I am sure we all have done that one time or another.
Eric

 

Yeah, My sister had problems with her T-bird once. She lived in NJ., me, in Indiana. I was driving a semi over the road and said next time I get over there
I would look at it for her. 3 weeks later I stoped in to visit. Her problem was every time she started her car, it would fire up and then quit. I got in the car with her and told her to start it and sure enough, that's what it did, start and stop, start and stop. While watching her I started LMAO and she got mad at me for laughing. Turns out she was turning the key to start aand when it did, she was letting the ignition flip back out of her fingers! and it was springing back just far enough to kill the engine. I told her to just turn it back gently after it starts. After starting it 5 times with no problem she said I can't believe it! I'm so stupid. I told her it's OK that's what brothers are for.
The funniest story I've heard yet is the woman who was standing in the rain
and couldn't get in her car because the battery had gone dead in her remote on her key chain!! :embarrass

 

and couldn't get in her car because the battery had gone dead in her remote on her key chain!!

LMAO!!!!!

Could this be a mechanical issue then? like maybe for some strange reason it jumped timing? or maybe a valve not seating right? how lean was it and ran for?

If it were to have run too lean for too long, could a valve have burnt out?

a compression test is in order.

just trying to chime in, in a helpfull way.

 

If the ground strap goes from the battery NEG. to motor mount great that grounds the battery but, you should have one from the back of the block or head to the firewall. That's your engine ground. I assume your running rubber engine mounts and tranny mounts, Right? Look at any motor and you will find one grounding the engine.

 

Ok guys I got my fuel tank swap all done today and got all my new fuel line hooked up and all is well. I finally have a working gas gauge. Well then looked to check into why my truck would not stay running. Well looking at many things all was checked from carb to distributor and for proper power to the distributor as well. It was funny if I kept the rpm's up high enough it would run decent and would pop here and there. Timing was dead on so did not know what else to check. My Dad was with me and asked my if I checked my plug wires and I said yes. He said we should check them again.

Well by looking at them and they where brand new wires I got last month they looked fine. The one plug wire looked fine but it sets close to the header and after actually taking it off the bottom of the boot was melted away but you could not tell unless you took it off. So there was one bad plug wire. Looked around and the others where just fine.

Took the bad boot off and replaced it and started it again and well it ran better but still would pop here and there.Checked one last time and looking at the one plug wire that was tucked behined my other header it looked fine but after pulling on it the side had gotten hot and split and it was grounding out on my header at low rpms and that was causing my missing. After replacing the wire and getting the carb finally tuned since I could not keep it running before long enough to do so it runs like a charm now.

Thanks guys for all your help appreciate it. Just some advice to others on here just by looking at your plug wires they may look fine but look over them like a fine tooth comb and you might be suprised at what you find.

eric

 

First it doesn't then it does, then it doesn't then it does. something intermittent is messing with your head!
I feel your anxiety, pain, and anger. Been there done that. Problem is, when you find it, It's going to pi** you off because you didn't find it earlier. Probably cost less to fix than what you've spent in time and money already.

How do you feel now? Did you shake your head and roll your eye's when you got er straightened out? Look on the bright side, ya got got a nice clean fuel system out of the deal. Glad to hear the good news.

 

Thanks sqxbox for the nice comments but I had too replace the gas tank anyways it was all rusted and about to cave in on the top it was so soft from rotting away. Well never did take it out last night to test drive it just adjusted the carb up a little that was all. I still have to bolt on my truck bed. Well I got that done and went to drive it home and got about four blocks and it started to spit and sputter on me and started to quit and would not stay running. So I poped my hood and lord behold my same too dam plug boots where melted again.

So I went to the auto part store to get a set of plug wires so I have extra wires just incase along with boots. I put them on and also got some spark plug wrap to help protect it. I swapped it all out and it started up and it ran fine and again and ran it and checked it and all I had to do was adjust the idle just a hair and went to go on my way nothing was wrong or burning. Well after a few blocks it started to want to quit and die on me again.

Barely got it back to my dads house and coasted in the driveway and thought my plug wires where burnt again. I looked at both and they where just fine just hot to touch but the boots where not burnt through. So what the heck do I check now? I have never had so much bad luck with one vehicle. New motor has been in and out. Ran fine a month ago and then all of a sudden it just went down hill.
Eric

 

Beat's me man! I've got stock wires through my headers and #1 boot is so close to the tube I might have 45K between them. I can't believe that one hasn't burned up yet, but it keeps going. You can try those header plugs I guess, their almost half the length of a standard plug. That should move the
boot's away from the tubes some. What kind of wires do you have on there
now? Sounds like you need a high temp hp wire upgrade.