Sounds good don’t know what you’re thinking of for a cam though.

The 71 block is pretty thick, this is before thin wall casting so expect to need to do a fair amount of grinding for pan rail and cylinder bore extension into the crankcase clearance.

As usual getting the rods past cam lobes either requires some grinding on the rods and the upper end of the bolts a thing I’ve never been comfortable with but it sounds like you’re covering that with your choice of rotating assembly.

If the transis an automatic just get it built a 383 will tear apart anything not a TH400 pretty fast. Converter stall needs to be based on the cam. My advice given how fast the 383 makes big torque and power numbers you’ll want 3 to 500 rpm more stall than the cam maker recommends, other wise it can be a real exercise keeping the thing halted at stop lights and signs.

Bogie

 

383 STROKER ASSEMBLY SCAT CRANK 6" RODS WISECO FLAT TOP 030 PISTONS 2PC RMS | Skip White Performance - We have the best prices you will ever find for aluminum heads, rotating assemblies and strokers

skipwhiteperformance.com

I took this kit, and my bare block to the machine shop.
I asked him to check the block for cracks, and other problems.
They did the machine work, cam bearings, freeze plugs, etc...

He measured, and marked all the bearings so I could bring it home and assemble myself.

Make sure your block is ok with .030 over before you buy the kit. Kits come in many different variables, I just picked .030 over with a flat top for you. The stroker rods in this kit will clear most cams you will run on the street, but you can always double check that later.

Also make sure to get your compression height correct when they deck the block.
These pistons are a little taller than most.

Put some decent heads on it and you will be golden.

Next you will be wanting to go 3:73s in the rear with a posi for having some real fun in the 713!

My buddy from Jacinto City had a nice 71 back in the early 90s we would cruise in. It wasnt fast, but everybody loved that thing!!

 

383 STROKER ASSEMBLY SCAT CRANK 6" RODS WISECO FLAT TOP 030 PISTONS 2PC RMS | Skip White Performance - We have the best prices you will ever find for aluminum heads, rotating assemblies and strokers

skipwhiteperformance.com

I took this kit, and my bare block to the machine shop.
I asked him to check the block for cracks, and other problems.
They did the machine work, cam bearings, freeze plugs, etc...

He measured, and marked all the bearings so I could bring it home and assemble myself.

Make sure your block is ok with .030 over before you buy the kit. Kits come in many different variables, I just picked .030 over with a flat top for you. The stroker rods in this kit will clear most cams you will run on the street, but you can always double check that later.

Also make sure to get your compression height correct when they deck the block.
These pistons are a little taller than most.

Put some decent heads on it and you will be golden.

Next you will be wanting to go 3:73s in the rear with a posi for having some real fun in the 713!

My buddy from Jacinto City had a nice 71 back in the early 90s we would cruise in. It wasn't fast, but everybody loved that thing!!

I really appreciate you posting this SkipWhite Package. After really taking the time to look around and compare i think I'm going with this package. Plus I dig its not a Typical Big Box.

I did have a question about something, With this package and the 4.030 with 64cc heads it show the compression at 11:15 , I want good compression and good HP but want to make sure i can run on Pump Gas. I've found some threads that say to stay in 10's or below to ensure that, What yalls thoughts?

I was looking at some Summit/Trick Flo Heads that are 64cc that run a hydraulic roller cam style (Everything I'm reading lands with recco's for a HR CAM).

CAM - I do want some chopchop but still can jump on I45 and cruise at 65mph to Conroe for LST

 

My 69 C10 had a mild 383 20+ years ago. It had a 210/210 Crane cam with 1.6 rockers, Dart Iron Eagle 180 heads, and around 9.4:1. Also a TH350, Stage 1 TransGo kit, 2000 RPM converter (Hughes GM20) and a 3.08 axle with 29" tires. That thing would do a decent burnout and make a loud chirp on the 1-2 shift. Do the MPH/RPM math before changing axle ratios.

Lots of good advice above. You have to carefully check crank-to-block and rod-to-cam lobe interference. Probably some good YouTube videos on this.

 

Appreciate everyone's feedback thanks! already picking up on things i didn't think about. Once i land on specific parts ill jump back in here.

 

He definitely has some of the best prices on packages out there. I have that 383 kit in the motor I'm still building right now. And I even bought a whole short block kit from him including the Dart Block. He sells decent stuff that's already balanced, and comes with all the bells and whistles.

11.1 should be okay with aluminum heads, but definitely get some more feedback from these guys before you pull the trigger. Because it looks like you're in Texas and I know it gets hot down there by H-Town. This will be a factor with detonation and high compression during the summer.
A 276 or 288hr from Comp Cams will give you some good thump, and lots of good torque. But again get a recommendation before you pull the trigger.
One thing to really check is which engine block you are starting with. Is it a one piece, or two piece rear main seal? Be sure to get the right kit for your application.

As far as your choice for cylinder heads, those AFR 195s should work real nice on a street 383.

 

Profiler heads offer 70cc versions and are reported to be quite equal to the AFR195 Eliminators for flow/power. That could get your compression down to a more manageable ratio. I have a 383 with 65cc AFR195s and a Comp XS274S cam in a S10. Pretty close in power I imagine to what you are talking about. I have to use sticky street radials to hook it up at all in most any gear - otherwise quite dangerous. You may want a roller cam instead of a solid flat tappet which would be even better choice if you have the roller cam block with 1 piece RMS. Skip White does sell a 383 kit with a used Roller cam block already clearanced for the crank. I never knew about Skip White when I built mine.
3.08 rear ratio needs to change or you need to go with a very mild cam to get the torque at low RPM. But then rest of the engine will be overbuilt - a waste of very good heads and strong bottom end. Why do that???? ....... Just change the rear gears to the magical 3.73s and get a fresh performance build on the TH350. Cam choice will determine what converter stall you need to keep it from being a slug at low speed. Carb needs to be 750 cfm+ on a 383 and get one with a choke - preferably a manual choke with vac secondaries. Don't kid yourself. The good old 3310 Holley comes to mind for heavy vehicle unless you want something fully adjustable. I personally run a QFT SS830, but I can get away with that because of my light vehicle and loose converter. Whatever cam you use, make sure the heads have appropriate valve springs for the cam type. It sometimes is not easy to change springs later if you have a change in spring OD.