Ive used that Company twice now and wouldn't recommend it. Both installs had minor issues I found a work around and the customer is happy but I don't feel like I should have had too do it that way.

 

I'll consider that but they're in my price range and another member showed me his installed in his S10.

My gauges are broken and useless, none of them work..I have to take the risk.

What was the work around ?

 

One had a speedometer pulse read function problem and the other was a tachameter noise problem specific to the instructions. It tells you to use the B- on the HEI cap AND tells you that the tach is super sensitive to the plugs wire EMF and to move it away from the cap. You can't do both. That damn thing was Soooo sensitive, I could pick up the noise from around 8" away making the connection impossible. The cluster itself was picking up the EMF from the wires through the fire wall. Tech support was less than helpful. Our conversations made it appparant they were listening and heard me, understood me, knew it was problem but didn't have a straight answer either.

I ended up using a GPS adaptor on the 1st because I couldn't get it programmed correctly or at all.

The jumpey and non accurate tach is still a problem I have't been able figure out yet. Looks good sitting there at a car show, looks stupid while driving it.

 

My install of the generic 5-gauge Intellitronix in my S10 didn't include a tach, so Johsongrass1 experiences may end up giving you problems.

I personally would be sorting out the factory gauges. It will be simpler than a new install of an aftermarket gauge cluster. Either way, you're going to have to learn to read schematics or pay someone who knows how.

Pink going back to the tank is not a hot wire.

 

My factory gauges are F'd and need replaced... speedometer cable is shot/needs replaced and the needle is broken off, tach is an aftermarket horribly installed and skittish, temp and voltage and oil pressure gauge don't have needles nor are they in service.

I've looked at used complete built gauge complete housing and in pieces, and both seem to cost more than the option of the digital gauges...and with the oil pressure reading at the cluster afterwards, I can get rid of the aftermarket OP gauge I have, and replace it with an AFR gauge later on.

With the tach issues, are they fixed set to v8 only or can you switch from v8 to v6 depending if one had a v6 or v8 ?...

 

Ok I'm convinced. I'll help with the install when you get there, but only if you promise to use a Deutsch connector and not those generic crimp on wire splices.

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You need one or two M/F Deutsch connectors with solid terminals, depending on how many wires you are dealing with. Also a ratcheting crimp tool. See Amazon. Don't need an entire kit. Probably cost about $40

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Deal, I'll look them up and add to cart.

 

As far as the tach, I would suppose they would make it switchable for v6 or V8. But instructions are where to look

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Yes, those are Deutsch connectors but the contacts are not the solid type. Just wait to order this until you get the Intellitronix gauge set and figure out how may wires you're dealing with. Don't forget you will need a specific ratcheting crimping tool to properly crimp those solid contacts onto the end of the wires. Also you will want connectors with a lot more than two terminals in each. Hopefully you can get maybe 14 wires into two connectors. IIRC the max is 12 wires per connector.

Wire it up right - plug in a couple of connectors, and you're done.

 

If you're not already, you should be on a MCSS specific forum. There are likely guys on there that could sell you a factory dash cluster...

Russ

 

I'm part of some G-Body and Monte Carlo Facebook groups but this is the only forum I use online. There really isn't any Monte Carlo forums unless it's SS or G-Body forum and I've had my fair rounds in G body forms and SS only talks about SS.

 

One thing I need to fix to get the temperature gauge working, is the temp sensor hole on the intake...

I tried to plug it off but went in pretty crooked and covered it in gasket maker...

I don't know whether I should drill and tap it straight or just buy another intake manifold...speaking of, right now I have an Edelbrock Performer EPS (Operating Rpm Range Idle-5500 RPM) , bought it when I had my stock camshaft installed.

I was thinking about swapping back to the Performer RPM (Operating Rpm Range 1500-6500 RPM) I swapped out for the EPS... seems like I had alot more power using that RPM intake manifold.

Which intake do you think would work better with my new Comp camshaft with an Operating Rpm Range of 1200-5200 RPM ?

 

Put the temp sending unit in the driver's head behind #1 spark plug - that is where they go. I doubt if you will notice any difference in the two manifolds. A claim of a lot more power is just silliness in an old 305.

 

A claim of a lot more power is just silliness in an old 305.

It did seem like there was a lot more power with that prior intake.. I was able to Burn Rubber on dry concrete and squeal my tires all the way out for a good distance with good throttle acceleration and power...

Ever since I swapped to this eps intake manifold, I've never been able to do that as good again.. and I've played with a bunch of timing adjustments since then so I can't blame bad timing for it.

That's why I say more power from that intake, and that was just with the stock cam.

 

You also now have a diaphragm for the secondaries in your carb that doesn't work.

Purpose here is not to shame you - but you simply got to learn when to stop and leave things alone!!!! Just because someone says something, doesn't make it true.

 

Yes sir I understand, this website is like my University and Facebook groups are my extracurricular... you guys are my professors..

And as far as the diaphragm for the secondaries, I think I dropped the check ball inside the vacuum hole behind the housing on the carburetor body at some point doing a rebuild or tear down with this carburetor... that's probably the whistling sound I get when I'm accelerating a little bit and goes away at wide open throttle.

 

I have to laugh about the second kit you show. Deutsch connectors spiced in with crimp wire connectors??? Why would someone do that!! (not your fault!)

I'll see what I can figure out for you.

 

https://www.intellitronix.com/_files/ugd/e944a4_fc40d1f089644890ae2e5172e0bd72c2.pdf

19 wires are mentioned in instructions, so I would go with 2 x 12pin connectors.

 

12 Pin Deutsch DT06-12S DT04-12P waterproof connector kit Solid Contacts | eBay

Note "Solid Contacts"

GIANNEER Closed Barrel Crimper Deutsch Crimping Tools 4 Way Indent 8 Impression Type Wire Crimper for Deutsch Connector 18-14AWG - Amazon.com

 

How about these ?

I bought 2 packs, giving me the 17 wires needed...

 

Tynan I made my recommendations in post #25.

Pre-wired Deutsch connectors defeats their purpose and is what makes me laugh. Do you really want to solder 17 x 2 = 34 wires and use shrink tubing on each for no good reason.

The nice thing about the Deutsch connectors is that you can make great connections without soldering or using wire spices. One barrel connector crimps onto the end of a wire (think your original instrument panel wiring where IP connector used to be - and then you shove it into one side of the Deutch connector - done! The other side of the Deutsch connector accepts the wire from the Intellitronix gauge - crimp a barrel connector onto the end of that wire and shove it into the mating Deutsch connector. - done! Repeat for all 17 wires. Then you have nice securely connected instrument panel connections that can be easily disconnected.

I'll see if I can I can find a video on using them. That might help you.

 

Tynan I made my recommendations.

Pre-wired Deutsch connectors defeats their purpose and is what makes me laugh. Do you really want to solder 17 x 2 = 34 wires for no good reason.

The nice thing about the Deutsch connectors is that you can make great connections without soldering or using wire spices. The barrel connector crimps onto the end of a wire (think your original instrument panel wiring where IP connector used to be - and then you shove it into the Deutch connector - done! The other part of the Deutsch connector accepts the wire from the Intellitronix gauge - crimp a barrel connector onto the end of the wire and shove it into the mating Deutsch connector. - done!

I'll see if I can I can find a video on using them. That might help you.

No I was just going to tie the wires together like I do every other wire and use the heat shrink to protect it on all 17 wires...

I didn't want to buy the kit that you have to build because that's too time consuming and buying another crimper and the kit would have cost me more money...

I don't mind rewiring all 17 of these wires to my car but I don't want to have to build these connectors and rewire everything..

But yes, send me a link of what you're talking about so I can see the difference.

 

I'll still certainly help you with what wire connects to what if you need it, but it is seeming the Deutsch connectors are just going to be a big waste of money for you. Just tie the wires together like you describe that you do. I'm done with the Deutsch.

 

Understood. I'll let you know when everything comes in the mail and I'm ready to prefab and install.

 

Came in the mail today...here are the instructions...

 

Headed out to remove the cluster from my car.

 

Does this grey film on the smoked lenses come off ?

 

Got the film off and the gauge mounted to my cluster housing...

Now it's time to attach the Deutsche connectors to the wiring and then match up the other ends in my car wiring...

 

For wiring info related directly to Monte Carlo...

 

 

Figured I was going to need a new speedometer cable because I ruined mine, but the kit comes with an electrical connector that connects to the speedometer housing on the transmission.

Clearly I'm going to need more wiring to wire it from the transmission to the dash...🤦🏾‍♂️

 

Thanks for that video.
I have an 87 model.