That stuff looks really slick but I'd be afraid to ask for a quote.
I've seen a similar (likely cheaper) system that uses poly pipe rather than the aluminum but still was a push toghther system. I''ve just forgotten where I saw it now.

 

Outrageously expensive would be more like it. Just use cold water pipe PVC, it is rated to 450psi. Take extra special care with the glue joints.

Vince

 

i just got a qoute...

$430 for basic
$705 for deluxe

now thats expensive...


OPTIONAL HOSE REEL
(25FT)-$149
(50FT)-$223

OUCH!

 

No kidding, who buys this stuffain:

Vince

 

Crap, thats expensive alright

 

Who buys it? Did you guys miss the link to the Yuppie garage a couple of days ago? That's who.

 

* Thanks search engine - you come thru again :thumbup: *

Has anyone installed this stuff...

 

Outrageously expensive would be more like it. Just use cold water pipe PVC, it is rated to 450psi. Take extra special care with the glue joints.

Vince

Vince, I see that you actually posted this reply a while back and someone bumped this thread back to the top.
Have you been keeping up-to-date with all the negatives that have posted on this board about using PVC for compressed air lines? It is considered a real no-no. Now that I am educated about it, I am considering pulling out my PVC pipe and intalling copper. I just posted on the Garage Safety thread about this subject yesterday:

http://hotrodders.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31945&page=3

Roger

 

Hmmm, mine's all CPVC lines throughout. Been that way since 1987... So what's the nix on plastic?

 

Hmmm, mine's all CPVC lines throughout. Been that way since 1987... So what's the nix on plastic?

I'll just list some of the info I have been reading.

Read what MARTINSR has to say about PVC here:
http://hotrodders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59191&highlight=pvc

Here's an OSHA link:
http://www.osha.gov/dts/hib/hib_data/hib19880520.html

More good discussions:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=202549
http://www.automotiveforums.com/t333988-air_lines.html
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Compressed_air_delivery_system.html
http://www.oldsmobility.com/air-compressor-piping.htm
http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/metal/msg0118410414545.html
http://www.fpweb.com/archive/June_99_piping.html
http://www.woodturner.org/vbforum/showthread.php?t=475&page=1

 

Short version without links:
If you happen to hit it with something hard, it shatters and sends shards of plastic into your body at high velocity.

 

If you are that worried use Schedule 80.

 

PVC gets pretty brittle when its cold out. Unheated garages get pretty cold too. Lets do te math:

PVC: Fast and cheap, yet dangerous and susceptable to rupture

Copper:moderate price and moderate install time-susceptable to damage, yet safer than above

Black Iron: slower to install, slightly more expensive, but CAN BE FOUND IN BUILDING SALVAGE YARDS for next to nothing ! Just about damageproof. Safe.

Hmmm. Do we follow the "do it once, do it right" method, or play russian roulette? The choice is yours. No sense arguing.

 

Just came across this old post and thought I would jump in and give my "professional" opinion. (pipe fitter by trade)

Galvanized sched 40 is a the best option, but slow to work with and requires specials tools.

Black iron pipe is also an option, but the moisture will start rusting on the id and that will head right to your end use device.

Type L copper is also a good option, more expensive, but easier to work with and requires only a turbo torch and tubing cutter.

PVC is not a suitable product, not even the green colored product, it doesn't hold up over time.

PEX tubing is not rated for air, and is not UV stable.

And finally dont use garden hose either, I have arrived at a job site to fix an "air leak" and low and behold what did I find, a blown out section of garden hose ran across the rafters linking 2 areas together, ROFLOL!

 

I have arrived at a job site to fix an "air leak" and low and behold what did I find, a blown out section of garden hose ran across the rafters linking 2 areas together, ROFLOL!

LMAO , In all my years of plumbing/repairing air systems I have seen some really goofy things and I think I can top that one! I once saw a 55 gallon oil drum used for a pressure tank! That thing was swollen out almost round and the ends were bulged out but he did not seem concerned at all about it or what might happen! He had it pressurized to around 50 lbs (he said he only used it to air up tires) which is far more than I would have thought it capable of holding and more than enough to have been a major disaster if it had of ruptured but at least he had it in a fenced in area where no one was likely to be around it. He had plumbed the air lines in the plug fittings in the top and even had a drain valve on the thing! :drunk: I have been tempted to mention this thing before when the discussion got around to air tanks but I was afraid no one would believe me but since you have the story about the water hose/air line I thought this might be a good time to point out what some people will do.

 

...Galvanized sched 40 is a the best option, but slow to work with and requires specials tools.

Black iron pipe is also an option, but the moisture will start rusting on the id and that will head right to your end use device.

Type L copper is also a good option, more expensive, but easier to work with and requires only a turbo torch and tubing cutter...

This is one of the few times that I've seen Galvanized sched 40 mentioned as the best option.
I usually read that copper is better. I can't afford copper so I'm using Galvanized sched 40 for my new ToyRoom in a couple months.

Thanks for the advice.

 

This is one of the few times that I've seen Galvanized sched 40 mentioned as the best option.
I usually read that copper is better. I can't afford copper so I'm using Galvanized sched 40 for my new ToyRoom in a couple months.

Thanks for the advice.

Good choice, it will last nearly forever.

I know of NO reason why copper would be better, easier yes, better no, imho.

 

I know of NO reason why copper would be better, easier yes, better no, imho.

Copper has a big advantage in cooling and thus helps to remove moisture from the air so in this respect it can be better. Over long distances (over 100 ft) this advantage would be lost but in a small shop where the air line can be 50 ft or less this cooling advantage can help quite a bit. There is also the argument that galvanized pipe will flake off and cause problems but I have seen a heck of a lot of galvanized pipe used and I have never seen this to be a problem. I agree that the galvanized pipe is a good choice, a very good choice in fact, and although Copper is my favorite I would not recommend spending a lot of extra money for Copper over iron pipe unless the system is going to be really short and the piping is going to be the major source for cooling before the water separator.

 

I agree with the cooling aspect, I was only thinking of the mechanical aspects.

For not a lot of money why not put a few feet of copper fin tube , and add a fan if you wish, the best of both worlds.

p.s. You can find used fin tube relatively cheap at metal salvage and used appliance businesses.

 

I agree with the cooling aspect, I was only thinking of the mechanical aspects.

For not a lot of money why not put a few feet of copper fin tube , and add a fan if you wish, the best of both worlds.

p.s. You can find used fin tube relatively cheap at metal salvage and used appliance businesses.

Yup, good idea. Actually I'm going to try to take that one step further...

Install Air-cooled Aftercooler after the pump's 2nd stage...
and before the receiver inlet... just like bigger IR compressors etc.
"Dropping-out" as much moisture as possible before the receiver should lengthen its life too.

Pipe receiver outlet to Refrigerated Air-dryer inlet... and pipe dryer outlet to air-supply "closed double-loop" system.

Don't want to step on this thread any more than we have already; so I'll post a new thread later (with sample pix) on "Advice Please: DRY air supply needed!"

Thanks.

 

Copper is best for cooling

Unless you need hard plumbed - dedicated connectors, I think for most average size shops a setup like mine doesn't take up much space, doesn't cost a lot in copper and with my shop being 22x40 the 50ft reel hose reaches every corner.

If I need more outlets - I'd probably plumb a manifold and hang another hose.

 

At one time or another I’ve had shops set up with PVC, Iron and copper.

PVC, as many others have noted, can be very dangerous; the pipe is not designed to be used with air and has integrity issues with changes in temperature and any exposure to sunlight.

Iron was safe and secure but had several issues: it was a pain to install because we had to thread almost every joint and after about six months started to become a maintenance nightmare as the rust in the lines started causing issues with my machines. Even just using the blow guns was messy with all of the rusty spray going everywhere.

Copper is what I had in my last shop and overall was a good system; secure, safe and while not maintenance free (there were some electrolysis issues) it was a solid system. The only negative things about it were: it was very expensive! That copper’s not cheap and while easier than iron to install it still took a long time to sweat all the joints.

I built a new, and hopefully last, shop a couple years ago and used a new aluminum pipe system that i wish had been available back when i did my first shop. It has all the "pros" and none of the "cons" of every other system I’ve used. It is safe and secure, extremely easy to install (it took a helper and myself less than a day to install air completely throughout my 8000sqft shop), to date I’ve not had any maintenance or contamination issues, and best of all it was inexpensive - especially compared to copper!

If you want to see any pictures of my latest (last, if I have anything to say about it) shop let me know and I’ll shoot you a couple. Here is the place where I purchased my system http://www.speedsourceusa.com/prevost-air-systems.html - They were easy to work with and helped me out with the design layout a lot.

So to boil it all down I’d say no to PVC and Iron and yes to either Copper or Aluminum.

 

Another issue with PVC

I am in the compressor business. PVC doesn't react well with synthetic compressor oils. Usually not an issue in a garage environment but you never know what some people will put in their compressors. If they even think to change the oil at all.

 

Are you insinuating that PVC can be OK in some circumstances? I too was in the compressor business for over thirty years and I am well familiar with PVC, PVC should never, ever, under any circumstances be used for compressed air and anyone in the compressor business should know that! Yes PVC can certainly react to certain oils, it also reacts to UV, heat and aging! It is extremely sensitive to shock when under pressure and even a fairly light blow that would barely dent Copper could easily cause PVC piping to send potentially deadly shards across a shop, metal piping sometimes leaks PVC explodes! The dangers of PVC are well known and accidents have resulted from it's use, serious accidents causing it to be banned for the use of transporting compressed gases, including air, by both OSHA and MSHA years ago (unless buried or enclosed in steel conduit). PVC should never be used for air line and even if it was safe the poor cooling qualities make it a very poor choice.

 

So y'all are against the PVC in a home 2 car garage? That you don't use the compressor every day and just need it at different times. I'm thinking of doing so I have air near the garage door and don't have to undo my 25ft hose every time.