Newbie poster, not new to HR. I have a 383 stroker with as much polished aluminum bling as I could add and still have a tire burning street machine. Carb (Quickfuel SS-780) keeps spitting with occasional fires, yahoo. No matter what I do, the timing (Dizzy E-Curve) seems off. ALL my bay wires, battery cables, fuel lines, AC cables, etc. are covered with stainless steel either factory or sleeves. The battery kept dying after a couple days and fuses were blowing right and left. In the process of figuring out this problem, I did a start up at night with all the lights out and saw several (and I mean several) small bleed sparks from cable to cable, including on the carb itself. My question really is, is it possible and does it make sense to ground all this stainless and will that fix it, or just take a month to remove all the stainless and use the black smurf hose. Checked my engine to body ground and its good. I am a neat freak so its obvious I created my own problem but I would hate to get rid of my March Serpentine. Ideas, experience, solutions most graciously accepted. :spank:
69FBVert
The issue, IMO, is the stainless sleeves shorting. Frayed wire, bare connectors will cause this, I used plastic sleeves, heat shrink and liquid tape to insulate my wires/connectors from the stainless sleeves and in one application I used some Teflon lined power steering hose as a cover. Never had a issue with shorting.....the choke wire is a likely source of providing power to your carb area.
Electrical Woes Continue
thx for the input EOD Guy, I heat shrinked all my end connections but did not insulate the bare connections from the stainless itself, but I understand i need to redo all the connections so i will try this. i used teflon hose for the power steering and ac lines only. for the carb connection i am connecting to the pos of the coil, painless tech suggested this since the painful wiring harness was missing the actual choke wire from the fuse box. i am at 7000 feet here in NM, so i am also rejetting the carb with 70 and 78 jets and putting a 37 spitter. maybe i am trying to do too much at once but after six years the patience for my labor of love is growing a little thin, as is the bosses.
thx for the input EOD Guy, I heat shrinked all my end connections but did not insulate the bare connections from the stainless itself, but I understand i need to redo all the connections so i will try this. i used teflon hose for the power steering and ac lines only. for the carb connection i am connecting to the pos of the coil, painless tech suggested this since the painful wiring harness was missing the actual choke wire from the fuse box. i am at 7000 feet here in NM, so i am also rejetting the carb with 70 and 78 jets and putting a 37 spitter. maybe i am trying to do too much at once but after six years the patience for my labor of love is growing a little thin, as is the bosses.
X2, March Serp is clear coated from the factory, good suggestion. I really believe it is a grounding issue, alt to head prob needed. I am not sure if it is a bleed from the dizzy, but that shaft is grounded thru the block. Please please please NO FIRES. After that was mentioned, wont even try to restart till I hammer this out.
Don't think you have a ground problem..... otherwise it wouldn't spark etc..... Your issue is a shorting problem from a live wire etc.....
Grounding probs continue
Way cool guys. I did check much of the wiring last night with a fluke meter (without starting the car) and found a ground on the carb choke so after removing the choke wire I checked the pos side of the coil which also had a ground. Is that possible. Also checked all the March items (bolts, cases, wiring) and found good grounds there as well. This just might be the bare wire issue that EOD and Super mentioned.
Way cool guys. I did check much of the wiring last night with a fluke meter (without starting the car) and found a ground on the carb choke so after removing the choke wire I checked the pos side of the coil which also had a ground. Is that possible. Also checked all the March items (bolts, cases, wiring) and found good grounds there as well. This just might be the bare wire issue that EOD and Super mentioned.
I never run my electric choke off of the coil as that can draw and take away power from it at least that is what holley says in there instructions for hooking one up. I use a add a fuse line circuit that you can get at your local autoparts store. Below is what I use.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QRSBW0/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1/182-8092492-2013420?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_r=0T44W7968SK3EMV0G7SV&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_p=1944579862&pf_rd_i=B0002BGELQ
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QRSBW0/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1/182-8092492-2013420?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_r=0T44W7968SK3EMV0G7SV&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_p=1944579862&pf_rd_i=B0002BGELQ
Kudos to the boys
All of this is good info and nothing threw me off but rather gave me better ideas for checking the "over-looked." First car I ever built so there is much I figure out, scratch my head about, read about, and listen to. This forum is cool, no one makes you feel like an idiot. Still working on it, but forgot which fuses are blowing, but I know they are 20 and 15 amp. Yet another fire hazard I am sure. The mechanical stuff I can do, the wiring is killing me. Will never use Painless again, its too painful.
All of this is good info and nothing threw me off but rather gave me better ideas for checking the "over-looked." First car I ever built so there is much I figure out, scratch my head about, read about, and listen to. This forum is cool, no one makes you feel like an idiot. Still working on it, but forgot which fuses are blowing, but I know they are 20 and 15 amp. Yet another fire hazard I am sure. The mechanical stuff I can do, the wiring is killing me. Will never use Painless again, its too painful.
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
