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Has anyone used a small turbo and wastegate for low rpm power?

2.3K views 8 replies 8 participants last post by  RealChris  
#1 ·
I’ve built a 460 ford with high compression, therefore it needs a big cam to run without race fuel. Now that’s fine and dandy when you’re in a roll, but the rpm that the cam really works at is high so any digs are a loss. Running 87 octane does have its limits.

Now the general concept I’ve been looking at is the compound turbo. Where a small turbo supplies engine boost until higher rpm’s can open a wastegate and push a larger turbo. Instead of a larger turbo, could I just use the engine power itself and have the small turbo specifically for lower rpm power? Does anyone have any examples or experience with something as such? I’m aware I have this backwards as the cam should be low end and the turbo should be high end, but damn thing is built already.

I’ve got 92 octane everywhere so that’s the limiting factor. A lower intake closing point on the cam would also allow a lower rpm power, but imo wouldn’t be as cool.

Try not to take this to seriously. For reference this car is my “do something with this car that no one has done-mobile.” So any wacky ideas that work are in the picture. So far it’s a 1976 Lincoln Town Coupé with a t19 manual, a 10.7:1 compression 460, and a stupid owner. 3.55 rear end and locking diff are in the future along with steering and suspension. It’s like sailing a boat. It would be pretty cool to add turbocharged to that list if possible.
 
#3 ·
Try not to take this to seriously. For reference this car is my “do something with this car that no one has done-mobile.” So any wacky ideas that work are in the picture. So far it’s a 1976 Lincoln Town Coupé with a t19 manual, a 10.7:1 compression 460, and a stupid owner. 3.55 rear end and locking diff are in the future along with steering and suspension. It’s like sailing a boat. It would be pretty cool to add turbocharged to that list if possible.
Sounds like one of my builds.
I had a 68 cadilliac "Devil" that I bought for $300 rusted all to hell with out the engine and a questionable trans. Cleaned out all the cats and such along with gutting the interior. Dropped a 454 and a sm465 into it and shortly after a 12 bolt. It was not fast but it was great for going sideways. A bit to good one day as I slid the thing sideways into some trees and bent it up. Fun for while the worst part being trying to park the thing.


Your compression is to high for a turbo. It just is no way around it. You may be able to push 13 maybe 13.5 with a turbo but all the stuff to get there for lets say another 80hp and maybe 150 lbs while really risking the engine itself is not worth it.


Now what you can do is something I have seen done but never done myself. I have like 6 sm465's and a few t18/19's so its on my bucket list. It is to put two sm465's or in your case a t19 and a a sm465 or t19/18 back to back. Preferably you use two 2wd ones as the outputs tend to be stronger.

The first transmission is the one you shift. The second transmission you use as a 2 speed. In the case of the sm465 the 3/4 rail is a straight pull forward or backwards. This means you can have the second one with a 1.7 ratio(3rd gear) basically multiplying your rear axle ratio from 3.55 to an axle snapping 6.035.

So you take off with that 2nd transmission in 3rd and shift the 1st transmission normally from the 2nd to 3rd to 4th then slap the other stick back into 4th). Honestly I doubt you would even need to use 2nd in the main trans in street driving which means you have 2 sticks and can just have both transmissions in 3rd. Dump the clutch at 5500 pull the 1st trans shifter straight back slamming into 4th while holding 5500 then back up to 5500 then grab the shifter for the 2nd trans and pull straight back into 4th.

Final ratios would be
18.64(5.253)3.09x1.7x3.55(2nd)
10.19(2.873) 1.69x1.7x3.55(3rd)
6.035(1.7)1.0x1.7x3.55(4th)
3.55(1.0)1.0x1.0x3.55(4th on 2nd)

Once again 2nd really might even be needed(unless your stopped on a steep hill etc) so you could just have two sticks and slap the one back before slapping the other back. My mid engine build uses a single sm465 and I plan on only using 3rd and 4th just slapping the stick forward or back to keep the front end down on the street then just swapping out the 3rd ratios to suit whatever I feel like doing that day in a parking lot kind of deal.


Someone is going to say why not just use a $6000 5 speed instead of two 230lb truck transmissions.
They probably dont know just how tough these transmissions are and the amount the abuse they will laugh at while surviving things that $6000 trans wound need constant rebuilds over. Oh and the fact they can be had for around $300 and rebuilt on a bench does not hurt. Rebuilds often just need bearings and seals (syncro's if you care). But these will often run just fine with half the bearings in the bottom of the things. Yea they are that tough.

Just a thought as you have the driveshaft length to fit one back there. Heck maybe you could have the shifter linkage exposed in the interior so someone in the back seat could join in the fun shifting the thing into 4th for you (clutch would need to be pushed in by you of course).

You can search remote shifter and also search for the two transmission thing on your own. There have been several people that have put a sm465 behind another sm465 or behind a th400 at this point to get cheap gearing options for the application.
 
#5 ·
The 800lb gorilla is the cam itself is likely so so wrong for a turbo, if even a small one to work properly. Most of the low speed charge is blown right out the exhaust, too early to drive the turbo.

money less option, advance the cam 4 degrees.
 
#6 ·
I did a twin turbo Olds 455 using 2 Mitsubishi turbos off of Cummins 3.3s. However it was a 1976 low compression motor

Your 10.7 could have a supercharger and Intercooler. However would need a ton of tuning

Would be easier to change the rear ratio from 3.55 to 4.xx and a high stall converter to get the motor to spool up
 
#7 ·
Compound turbos are used for exactly what their name implies. Unless you want to run crazy high boost pressure, there is no reason for a compound system.

And no… you can ‘t use a baby turbo as it will limit the flow at RPM and bottle neck the motor. Also 92 octane and 10.7:1 don’t make for a very boost friendly setup IMO. If you want to run boost on pump gas get the compression into the 8-9:1 range.

Why do you think you need a big cam with higher compression? Compression doesn’t care where it makes power… put a smaller tight LSA cam in and it will light off earlier. You don’t need a radical cam, esp if you want low end grunt. What cam is in it?

Tuning also plays a big roll here. Are you sure you have your current tune is optimal? Theres no reason in the world a healthy 460 can’t be VERY responsive.

A MUCH cheaper/easier way to get response would be to simply smack it with a 50-100hp shot of nitrous. Use a fuel cell with methanol in it to get around detonation for the N20 kit.

But honestly its most likely your tune up is lacking. Will have to wait and see just how “radical” of a cam you have installed though.
 
#8 ·
Concerning this '76 vintage 460 that is leaving you feeling it's under-performing.....
The typical all-important $50,000 question when talking about most Ford hot rod engines....

What heads are on it??

There are maybe 3 stock heads for a 460 worth using, and none of those were made after 1970. And none of them came stock on any 460, they would all be originally 429 heads.
Anything else stock is among the worst, especially after 1973.

Give some details of what you have built.

Last hot rod 460 I bult was for my brother. It 10.6:1 compression, ran on pump fuel in a mid-80's Ford 1/2 ton 2wd short box just fine. 12 second 1/4 mile street truck. Cam was 218° @.050 intake, and I think 226° exhaust from Crower.
Heads were key, he horsetraded for a set of '68 closed chamber ("Thunder-Jet") Thunderbird 429 heads that I home port blended the intake side and full ported the exhaust port including removal of the EGR(Thermactor) hump.