Sounds like a good deal.

I have an RP2000 1.4, RP3000 1.4 and a Iwata LPH-1.4 and optional base-cap.

All three guns are great but they all do different things, personally the Iwata sprays base the best of all the guns, when the base cap is used.
The three guns spray clear very good but the RP2000 is more a hosier then the Iwata and the RP 3000 is more a hosier then the 2000. The 3000 is harder to dial the clear in but once you do I think it is better then the 2000 and if you are a fast painter like myself, it will spoil you.
To me the RP2000 is about as child proof of a gun there is, for ease of adjusting.

The Sata's are air hogs and the scfm figures you gave may be true but there is really a difference of day and night with the little air the Iwata uses VS the Satas.

All things being equal I would say the Sata's will use about 10% more paint then the Iwata.

The RP stands for reduced pressure but I think both guns are rated at 65% and I believe that meets the requirement for HVLP in most areas, it use too but I have not stayed up on the requirements in last couple of years.

 

BarryK chimes in! :welcome: :thumbup:

1.4 on a sata must be a hose! Do you think a sata RP 1.3 would have the same overspray as LPH400LV 1.4?

How does the rp 3000 1.3 spray mettalic? I'll be practicing with Arcticsilver (BMW color) so the base cap for Iwata (is it LVB or LVX?) is what I need?

 

I have never noticed a difference in over-spray to be honest, I'm sure there is as the Iwata is rated around a 75% vs the 65% but I just never noticed.

The 1.3 should be less then the 1.4 and should spray base better.
I did get to use a 1.3 3000 in a body shop and sprayed a new Mercedes front end silver out of it but it was a top of line paint and it really sprayed the base nice.
That was the only time I used the 3000 with a 1.3 tip set up.

The extra cap I have is the Purple base cap and don't remember the numbering system for it.

 

Thanks for reply!

Would you:

A) Get a Devilbiss GFG-670 that comes with 3 tips that seems to spray mettlaics great and also do a nice job laying down clearcoat


B) Get the Sata, use it for clear and get a basecoat cap for the iwata and use it for spraying metallic.

 

You asked the wrong person that question and really need advice from other gun users.

I have 17-22 guns and they are Sata's, Iwatas and Geo's, nothing else is getting past the door no matter how cheap, I'm the wrong person to answer that question.

 

Forget those guns you just listed and get the Iwata.

Spend the $$$ once and have the best and forget the rest.

The Iwata can make even myself a "hero" with the spray gun!

If your budget doesn't allow an Iwata right now, get a Finex FX3000, they feel the same in your hand as the Iwata and spray dam well too.

 

Forget those guns you just listed and get the Iwata.

Spend the $$$ once and have the best and forget the rest.

The Iwata can make even myself a "hero" with the spray gun!

If your budget doesn't allow an Iwata right now, get a Finex FX3000, they feel the same in your hand as the Iwata and spray dam well too.

You didn't read the first post did you?

I do have an Iwata, but when it comes to mettalics it sucks and its very slow for large panels. I love the gun though.

Barry, would you say the orange cap helps a lot when painting mettalics?
The mettalics on BMW silver (309) seem to be very small and close together.

 

I have heard mixed reviews on the orange cap and I have never sprayed with it.

Slow moving and bad metallic control??????

Are you aware that gun should be held 4-5" from the panel.
Fan should be as wide as you can get it but turned in just enough not to blow out the center.
Fluid adjustment for most quality bases would be 2-2 1/2 turns out.

Air pressure at the wall must be 100lbs or more.

Air pressure at gun should be 20-26 depending on base you are using.

Do not think for a minute you can spray the base at 12 lbs they recommend and have the metallics lay right.

Just my 2.5 cents worth.

 

Thanks for reply Barry.

I've tried different setting and pressure from 16 psi to 27 PSI, with fan and fluid knobs all open.
Although you get ridiculous overspray by doing this, it lays the clear down like glass.
And by slow, I meant Iwatas are generaly slow, compared to Sata or Devilbiss. I'm sure you know that! :thumbup:

 

So here is the price:

Sata will be $450 (canadian prices are ridiculous) even this amount is still lower than ebay prices


GEG-670 will be $418 after tax.


hmm choices choices :sweat:

 

I'd get the gun just for the "deal" but I'm an Iwata man myself. Only Sata's I own are a Mini 3 SR and a newer Jet90 RP-2,1.4 which is a great spraying gun but it's more toward the conventional range as it sprays with around 45# so it only comes out for special occasions.
The LVB,Purple air cap is the shizz with your 400-LPH,1.3.
That is my primary base gun set up and as Barry said ,around 20# for a quality base, Something like Chromabase and you'd probbly want less air as it's such a thin base as it is. I have a LPH-400LV,1.4 I use for clear and unless you just are hell on wheels spraying,it'll throw the clear out fast enough.
Have got mixed reviews on the LVX,Orange cap as well.
Some love,some are dissapointed.
Biggest "issue" most painters have with the I's is that they are use to spraying 8-10" off panel and as said you got to get close with the I's.

 

So I have a chance to pickup a Sata RP 3000 that used to be a dmeo gun for 40% off the original price. I can get it a lil lower since it was missing a wrench.

So according to Sata:

Air consumption: 295 Nl/min (10,4 cfm) which is decent since Iwata uses 9 cfm

(non-digital)

The guy told me it uses more material since its not HVLP. Is this true?

I want a gun for faster clearing when spraying large panels and decent for metallic basecoats.
My Iwata sprays clear great but its kinda slow and it sucks when spraying metallic. From what I've read the basecoat cap doesn't really greatly improve the spraying of metallic.

So should I go for it?
Is it going to cloud the area fast? Can anyone who has used this post a comment?

Thanks!

Yes I read your original post and you do not specify what Iwata you have, which air cap, what size tip, none of the imporctant facts.

The need for the correct gun sizing and technique is critical with ALL guns.
If you are getting substandardd results with an top end gun the place to look for improvement is in selection of fluid needle and air cap and your Technique.

Sata is a great line of guns, but they are not the best gun for the buck.

I suggest you try the IWATA W400LV with a 1.3 or 1.4 set up. Your local dealer should have a demo gun witih the proper tips and caps for you to try.

The W400LV will put the clear down as fast as you can control it.

 

Yes I read your original post and you do not specify what Iwata you have, which air cap, what size tip, none of the imporctant facts.

The need for the correct gun sizing and technique is critical with ALL guns.
If you are getting substandardd results with an top end gun the place to look for improvement is in selection of fluid needle and air cap and your Technique.

Sata is a great line of guns, but they are not the best gun for the buck.

I suggest you try the IWATA W400LV with a 1.3 or 1.4 set up. Your local dealer should have a demo gun witih the proper tips and caps for you to try.

The W400LV will put the clear down as fast as you can control it.

I have the LPH-400 with the silver cap, 1,4 tip.
I love this gun. It sprays clear great like a mirror, I've painted several bumpers and panels with it and all I needed to do was wetsand and buff the dust nibs. In order to go faster with the gun, I use 27 PSI, but on large panels like a hood, I'd be more comfortable using a faster gun.

 

Update (copy-pasted from autobody forums)

Thanks all for the reply. Decided to get the Sata!
Feels great in my hand and its well built.
According to the salesperson it was only demo'd at one bodyshop that was considering switching to their paint line (BASF).
He also threw in a wrench for free.

Why did I get the Sata? Because the retail price for this gun is around $800 (before tax) and I got it for almost half price ($450 Canadian = $365 U.S)
Originally I was set to get the Devilbiss Plus which after reading lots of comments, I was convinced that it sprays the same as the Sata RP, and its way cheaper than Sata.
Shop A was offering me to sell a Plus gun that was on display hanging up a wall for about $420 after tax. Not a bad price for a Plus gun in Canada.
Shop B quoted me $550 (that's what a brand new Plus would cost in Canada!), so that would be about $620 after tax. :?


So the looks almost new except for a few scratches at the bottom of the cup with I assume was caused by the gun hanger. I'm going to thoroughly clean it tomorrow after I wax my car. Everything looks great.

 

Congrats and cool beans bro. :thumbup:
May your base be nib free and your clear be without peel imp: .

 

Thanks! :thumbup: