Building the carb itself is straightforward. It's the tuning that requires some knowledge.
In my opinion, if an individual takes the time to learn the basics, practice on a carb (other than his "good" one) by taking it apart and reassembling it a few times, that he will then be capable of tuning a carb just fine, given some direction.
You should start w/a good carb- not some mismatched pos from eBay or the flea market. In the case of a Holley, this means the metering blocks and plates need to match the carb, all the parts present (unless you already have the missing parts or can get them AND the missing h-ware is reflected in the price).
You don't want someone else's idea of a "modified" carb w/drilled out passages or orifices, avoid carbs w/holes drilled in the butterflies, and be sure that the carb matches up well to the application in size and type (vacuum or mechanical secondaries, choke or not, square or spreadbore, correct linkage for the vehicle/trans, etc.).
With a Q-jet, you want to pay attention to how well the primary throttle shaft fits the base plate. The shaft (even though it's teflon coated) will wear into the base plate (creating a vacuum leak) if the wear is significant. There are bushings available to fix this, or you can send it out to be done.
The vacuum "break(s)" located on the passenger side of the carb need to be checked to be sure they're good and will hold vacuum, otherwise the secondary actuation will suffer and you'll be paying for replacements.
The Q-jet is known for having leaky primary and secondary wells. These can be fixed by several methods, depending. JB Weld is always suggested for this, but in my experience that fix will not last, eventually the epoxy will loosen and the leak reoccurs. A permanent fix is possible but is outside this short discussion.
A lot is made of the "big" Q-jet. It's rated at 800 CFM, but truth be told, you'll very likely never know the difference between a 750 and a 800 CFM Q-jet. The 800 was even used on later ('86 was about the latest non-feedback Q-jet, IIRC) 4.3L V6's, and I have taken 750 CFM Q-jet carbs off of 455's, so that should tell you something!
The Q-jet has a few "quirks" about it that will frustrate first-timers, correctly placing the primary needles inside the jets will frustrate ANYONE, for that matter- experienced or not. Hooking up the choke link can be tough at first, there are others.
I would suggest a good manual for further instructions and tips/tricks/fixes. Cliff Ruggles' book is always mentioned as one of the best, and next to that is Roe's book on Q-jets. GM factory manuals have real good info and photos, too.
There are quite a few Holley "How To" books out, I do not have a favorite, perhaps someone can offer some suggestions.
There are a LOT of replacement parts available for either carb (hell, you can build a "Holley" w/o using one Holley™ part), but this all adds to the cost- quickly- and can bring a "$10 carb" to over a $100 carb before you know it. That's why you want to test/check things BEFORE you buy.