Do you have 12 volts going to the distributor?
Is the distributor grounded to the block? The clamp is the ground path so make sure that the clamp ring is clean (no paint).
How are you testing for spark?
Run a jumper direct from the battery to the distributor to eliminate the wiring and ignition sw.

vicrod

 

X2 with Vic's questions.

 

Thanks for the reply. I really appreciate it! Have not checked, but will. If the direct line to distributer from battery works, than what might be the problem? A short in the line? Could there be an issue in the ignition switch? Thanks again!

 

possible frayed/broken wire from the ing switch, could be engine bay side or the firewall connectior or cabin area....... cabin side ..... make sure no one has tapped into that wire to run something else or it has a solid connection to the switch terminal........ firewall connector...... corrosion or broken connection at the bulkhead connector....... engine bay ..... wire broken/frayed or it could be brittle from lying on the engine etc.....

Good luck

 

The jumper will eliminate everything in the ignition wiring. If it starts then trouble shoot it back from there.
Please stop replacing parts until you are sure they are bad.

 

Joe23

Ok, i thought I wasn't getting spark, but I am. When the no start occurs, the initial ignition sound like the battery is weak to the starter. And then it just turns over with no fire? I replaced the battery and same problem when it is hot?????

 

Joe23

Could it be in the timing or ground straps for battery. The battery sits in the bed of the truck. I've set the timing at between 10-12 BTDC. When cold starts fine and runs smooth. Again this is a 49 custom Chevy with a 383 cu in engine. This starting issue is driving me crazy! Recap of what's been done.
New fuel pump. Re-route of fuel lines away from heat. New distributer. New battery. All new guts to distributed. I am getting spark when this no start on hot engine occurs.?????